Cored forearm dowel size

Depending on the size of a tapered core, I would be afraid of a little to much pressure installing the dowel and ending up with a split fore arm. Truthfully, I'm quite happy with a .750 straight dowel. As long as the centers in the core are true, the prong wood needs to be no thicker at it's thinnest part than what is needed so that it's not translucent.
You could taper a big piece of delrin and use it on the outside of the forearm while you press the core in. :)
I'm with you, if your core and 3/4" hole are cut right, (including centers) there's no danger of the forearm being too thin.
 
If this is done properly, you won't have a problem with splitting. Just make sure the female is still over sized plenty and you won't have to put much pressure on the core to get it to seat. Burls are a different story but just do those way over sized at 1.350 round and cut the outer taper after the glue up. Do everything like that and taper after the glue up.
This is the nutts for ivory handles and all heavy woods that you want to use behind the A.
 
I use a .750 drill and a .744 core. I bore both ends to .752 before I use the gun drill which keeps the ends from breaking out and makes the drill run more true.

Good tip Arnot ... I will try that on my next bored cue.
Just sent off for Sterling's (DrillMasters) tail stock mount.
Always had a hard time aligning the drill with it mounted on the tool post.
With it mounted on the tail stock it should simplify the alignment.
(I can sure use all the simplification I can get)
 
There were cuemakers using tapered cores 10+ years ago. I would imagine that they are still doing it that way. I don't understand why you would put so much pressure on the 2 pieces while gluing that you would break the forearm. The forearm is not .010" from finished size while glueing but has considerable wall thickness. This process also gives you another way to control weight, particularly in the nose of the cue as the tapered core will give even wall thickness, of the finished forearm, from front to rear instead of decreasing wall thickness that you get with the straight dowel. You could use this to increase foreward weight by a fraction.

Bob Danielson

www.bdcuesandcomix.com
 
.750 center drill

Hi,

I use a .750 center drill on both sides. When I core there is no problem on both ends. Of coarse I use a steady rest and hold the piece at the ends when I use the center drill or gun drill.

Rick Geschrey
 
There were cuemakers using tapered cores 10+ years ago. I would imagine that they are still doing it that way. I don't understand why you would put so much pressure on the 2 pieces while gluing that you would break the forearm. The forearm is not .010" from finished size while glueing but has considerable wall thickness. This process also gives you another way to control weight, particularly in the nose of the cue as the tapered core will give even wall thickness, of the finished forearm, from front to rear instead of decreasing wall thickness that you get with the straight dowel. You could use this to increase foreward weight by a fraction.

Bob Danielson

www.bdcuesandcomix.com

Oh really? I wasn't aware of that. I've been coring almost all of my cues for about that long or a little longer and until yesterday I had not heard of tapered coring. It hasn't been very long since coring cues became popular. In fact, it hasn't been long since I was criticized by some people on this forum because I said that I core most cues and now I notice that some of them are coring also. I guess times change and memories forget.

I cored a maple burl 2 days ago that is only .910 at the nose so that is only .030 oversize. I don't like coring anything that size and especially that type of wood but that is what was given to me to build a cue out of. It has a warp so I had to turn both ends a little so that I could get to run true in my steady rest.

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Dick
 
Dick,

Once again your calling me a liar. I have receipt books that I could show you where I sold laminated coring dowels to many of the top cuemakers over 10 years ago. At that time there were cuemakers using a tapered core and we discussed it at the BCA show. Other than that you can kiss my ass since you don't know what your talking about.

Bob
 
Dick,

Once again your calling me a liar. I have receipt books that I could show you where I sold laminated coring dowels to many of the top cuemakers over 10 years ago. At that time there were cuemakers using a tapered core and we discussed it at the BCA show. Other than that you can kiss my ass since you don't know what your talking about.

Bob

I have in no post, on any forum, at any time ever called you a liar. Will you kindly post anywhere that I have called you a liar. If so then I will kiss your a$$. You do seem to be able to read into posts things that are not there and take them to heart. What does your having receipts have to do with tapered cores? What does receipts 10 years old have to do with coring? Where did I say that coring only started 10 years ago? Where does it say no one used tapered dowels? I said I had never heard of it till yesterday. Does that mean I called you a liar. I do believe you need to take a few reading comprehension coarses however as you have a problem and I am saying that. Now would you explain just what it is that you feel that I don't know of what I'm talking about.

Dick
 
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