CORED CUES--CONTINUED and CONTINUED
Chris: Some of the cues I have built with a full length core hit so-so and most, I would venture to say, hit wonderful. If the forearm is ebony, coring it with maple, may be a dissapointment. However, cored with PH, or bocote, changes the equation. Like all cue making, garbage in, garbage out, i.e., if you have lousy forearm wood a bocote core will help some, but it will not give you the hoped for results. The hit can be changed by the core wood to make a softer or a harder hit. This allows for more flexibility in the use of woods you may not of otherwise be used in the cue. This and the elimination of the "A" joint are two of several advantages.
In regards to your comment on Gorilla glue v/s Epoxy: I did an experiment awile back, as I always used epoxy but was intrigued by the Gorilla glue's ability to expand. I took a 3/4" piece of PH and cut glue grooves in it. I then cut two 4" pieces of BE, bored then .758". I glued one piece of the BE to the core using epoxy and the other piece to the other end of the core using Gorilla glue. I waited 2 weeks and then, using a parting tool cut thru the BE to the PH core and divided the BE into 3 parts, that is three rings of epoxy glued BE and three rings of Gorilla glued rings about 1 1/2" long. I then cut away the BE on both ends down to the glue line. Surprise--the epoxy did not adhere to the PH at all points. Bigger surprise-the Gorilla glue not only adhered on all surfaces it actually pulled some of the BE down into the glue grooves I had cut in the PH. I then placed the experiment in a vise and tried to twist the rings loose from the PH core with 12" channel locks. Neither the epoxy or the Gorilla glue would break loose. I then took another sleeve and a hammer and tried to shear the rings loose. Neither of the glues broke loose. My conclusion was that either glue is more than strong enough for the job; however the Gorilla glue did in fact adhere on the entire surface. And, I did not observe any "foam" at the glue line--only foaming was the excess outside of the joint. I will continue to use epoxy as I am concerned that the Gorilla glue may dampen the hit.
Okay, thats it from me about cores. Stick a fork in me, I am done.
Regards,
Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues
www.denalicues.com
cueman said:Most people on here have less experience with full length cores than you do. How would you describe the hit of the cored all the way through cues compared to those with A-Joints in them? The other types of coring is mostly for weight and stability, but yours has the potential for the greatest change in the hit. Not knocking anything here, just curious what the benefits are concerning the hit.
Chris: Some of the cues I have built with a full length core hit so-so and most, I would venture to say, hit wonderful. If the forearm is ebony, coring it with maple, may be a dissapointment. However, cored with PH, or bocote, changes the equation. Like all cue making, garbage in, garbage out, i.e., if you have lousy forearm wood a bocote core will help some, but it will not give you the hoped for results. The hit can be changed by the core wood to make a softer or a harder hit. This allows for more flexibility in the use of woods you may not of otherwise be used in the cue. This and the elimination of the "A" joint are two of several advantages.
In regards to your comment on Gorilla glue v/s Epoxy: I did an experiment awile back, as I always used epoxy but was intrigued by the Gorilla glue's ability to expand. I took a 3/4" piece of PH and cut glue grooves in it. I then cut two 4" pieces of BE, bored then .758". I glued one piece of the BE to the core using epoxy and the other piece to the other end of the core using Gorilla glue. I waited 2 weeks and then, using a parting tool cut thru the BE to the PH core and divided the BE into 3 parts, that is three rings of epoxy glued BE and three rings of Gorilla glued rings about 1 1/2" long. I then cut away the BE on both ends down to the glue line. Surprise--the epoxy did not adhere to the PH at all points. Bigger surprise-the Gorilla glue not only adhered on all surfaces it actually pulled some of the BE down into the glue grooves I had cut in the PH. I then placed the experiment in a vise and tried to twist the rings loose from the PH core with 12" channel locks. Neither the epoxy or the Gorilla glue would break loose. I then took another sleeve and a hammer and tried to shear the rings loose. Neither of the glues broke loose. My conclusion was that either glue is more than strong enough for the job; however the Gorilla glue did in fact adhere on the entire surface. And, I did not observe any "foam" at the glue line--only foaming was the excess outside of the joint. I will continue to use epoxy as I am concerned that the Gorilla glue may dampen the hit.
Okay, thats it from me about cores. Stick a fork in me, I am done.
Regards,
Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues
www.denalicues.com