Coring wood question

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Straight grained woods works best, which means you still have a lot to choose from. Paduak, bloodwood, rosewood of all sorts (if cost isn't an issue..) Jatoba etc.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
I have fully cored all my cues........... about 3 with a 3/4 in purple heart dowel and the 300 with a 3/4 maple dowel
 

DeeDeeCues

Well-known member
I core because I like more.work.
Oh wait....

I've never fully cored. Haven't had a butt move. Haven't built a ton of cues, either.

I understand how and why to core. I'll be setting up to core as I get my lathe built. Might look into coring on my mill, but that'll take special tooling and use every bit of travel I have.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm curious what the cuemakers have to say. Bocote would make a lot of sense to me.
Bocote is a Very stable wood. Weights like all woods can vary.
One of the high grain woods, I would be concerned about your glue / epoxy absorption, but I worry about absorption with Purple heart too. Sometimes it's a sponge sucking everything in.
Dry spots equals BUZZ.
 
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Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bocote is a Very stable wood. Weights like all woods can vary.
One of the high grain woods, I would be concerned about your glue / epoxy absorption, but I worry about absorption with Purple heart too. Sometimes it's a sponge sucking everything in.
Dry spots equals BUZZ.
Ipe if I need the weight
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Bocote is a Very stable wood. Weights like all woods can vary.
One of the high grain woods, I would be concerned about your glue / epoxy absorption, but I worry about absorption with Purple heart too. Sometimes it's a sponge sucking everything in.
Dry spots equals BUZZ.
use GG ......... absorption is not a problem as there is with epoxy

Kim
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Thanks, what are the cons?
Shorter working time . More hydraulic pressure, much thicker . Does not wick into wood Epoxy has much more shear strength .
GG is also not the best poly glue imo. The search for a better one is fun.
But, like most things in cue making ( often times ) , it's not what, it's how .
 

Coos Cues

Coos Cues
If you want a lighter core that is stable and durable Hickory is inexpensive, made in the the USA and fits the bill. Go down to the lumber yard and pick your own 4/4 boards.
 

Coos Cues

Coos Cues
Bocote is a Very stable wood. Weights like all woods can vary.
One of the high grain woods, I would be concerned about your glue / epoxy absorption, but I worry about absorption with Purple heart too. Sometimes it's a sponge sucking everything in.
Dry spots equals BUZZ.
Which is why I glue up my cores under pressure. It reduces the necessary clearance requirement and by forcing thin epoxy into the core and handle wood instead of it sucking more in it releases it back to the void when you release the pressure. This is a photo of a jatoba butt sleeve core after gluing up the handle but my jig also puts the same pressure on the butt piece in the photo as I glue the handle on. I wiped this off at least a half a dozen times prior to letting it sit and dry and more came out which is beaded up. Notice where the handle wood meets the core the epoxy has puddled upward rather than being sucked back into the void like a sponge? The cue was stood on end to dry with the butt side facing upward. Jatoba is another open grain wood that likes to suck in glue like PH. When I use PH the outflow is even greater after forcing the epoxy into the wood as you let the open grain work for you rather than against.
001 [1600x1200].JPG
 
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