Cost of Extending Sub-Rails
- Thread starter Jerico
- Start date
You'll be around $300 just for the cushions. Another $75 or so for a rail cloth set (simonis).
Labor charge would depend on who does the work and whether it's done on site.
You should probably figure $600 at the least.
Is there any chance this can be done on a K-steel?
Subrail extensions
I would be interested in quoting anyone for custom subrail extensions. In my wood and metal fabrication studio I can handle just about anything you can throw my way. My prices are very competitive and I do offer a discount to offset the shipping costs if you are out of my area. You can take a look at my old website at www.table-tek.com or my soon to be finished site for antiques and custom work only at www.vintage-table-tek.com. I look forward to hearing from you, email me at sales@table-tek.com or phone my work cell direct at 215-622-8899.
Rob Kay
I would be interested in quoting anyone for custom subrail extensions. In my wood and metal fabrication studio I can handle just about anything you can throw my way. My prices are very competitive and I do offer a discount to offset the shipping costs if you are out of my area. You can take a look at my old website at www.table-tek.com or my soon to be finished site for antiques and custom work only at www.vintage-table-tek.com. I look forward to hearing from you, email me at sales@table-tek.com or phone my work cell direct at 215-622-8899.
Rob Kay
Hello:
You can email us at mr8ball@comcast.net for a quote if you are in our service area.
Thanks
Ron
You can email us at mr8ball@comcast.net for a quote if you are in our service area.
Thanks
Ron
I'm just wondering if anyone has done this on a K-steel? I'm not looking foran estimate at this time just some info, anyone?
Rob, it might be smart to post some pictures of the work you've done in this line of work, as seeing the work done without having to pay for it first is always the big seller:grin: I would advise anyone else to do the same:wink:
Have you ever done it? I'm imagining you'd have to glue or epoxy the wood to the aluminum?
That would be correct:grin:
See, I'm not as dumb as I look :grin-square:
On another note, I got a buddy looking at a Pro-Am with league cut pockets. I heard Diamond will swap out the rails for Pro-Cut (for a fee of course) do you know if this is true? And if it is what theprice would be? (you can PM me if you'd prefer) Or should I call Greg?
Did you just re-do the cushions at Ritchie's?
Yes, Diamond will swap out the rails, Brian or Aaron is who you want to talk to about that, but 1/4" neoprene facings will do the same thing. Yes, I worked on the 2 7fts at Ritchie's, they were really messed up...not going to mention who worked on them last though
Glen
Pictures of some of my work
Hey Glen,
I have a few pictures of the miter bench that I have been doing railwork with lately. Though it is not very portable, I can take it with me to pool hall on site when needed. The fence will get upgraded to aluminum shortly, it is crude but accurate now. I haven't uploaded any pics to the forum yet so this might take a few messages to get a few in. The first two pics are from a hacked table in a pool hall in the Philadelphia area, luckily all the pockets had extra rubber so they all trimmed down nicely. I know this thread is for subrail extensions which these do not have, but take a look at the perfectly clean lines. The 142 degree angle has been held with the relief angle taken from 11 degrees to 12.5 to match the rest of the recent tables. I am finishing a GC 2 subrail extension in the next few days so I will take plenty of pics to put up. Below are a list of some of the other services I specialize in.
*Full frame crating, 3pc slates crates and one piece slates included
*Fix cracked slate (check my new thread)
*Minor veneer replacement and matching for antique tables
*Long distance moves (many recent moves have been near 1000 miles)
*Full service fabrication (wood or metal)
Hey Glen,
I have a few pictures of the miter bench that I have been doing railwork with lately. Though it is not very portable, I can take it with me to pool hall on site when needed. The fence will get upgraded to aluminum shortly, it is crude but accurate now. I haven't uploaded any pics to the forum yet so this might take a few messages to get a few in. The first two pics are from a hacked table in a pool hall in the Philadelphia area, luckily all the pockets had extra rubber so they all trimmed down nicely. I know this thread is for subrail extensions which these do not have, but take a look at the perfectly clean lines. The 142 degree angle has been held with the relief angle taken from 11 degrees to 12.5 to match the rest of the recent tables. I am finishing a GC 2 subrail extension in the next few days so I will take plenty of pics to put up. Below are a list of some of the other services I specialize in.
*Full frame crating, 3pc slates crates and one piece slates included
*Fix cracked slate (check my new thread)
*Minor veneer replacement and matching for antique tables
*Long distance moves (many recent moves have been near 1000 miles)
*Full service fabrication (wood or metal)
I know exactly what you're doing, I did that in my wood shop years ago. I found out later that it becomes more portable with a table saw and slide to sand the rail ends perfect with more ease. In the field is the way to make the money as back and forth trips are more costly. But you do have the right setup in a shop if you don't have a tablesaw. Nice work there buddy:grin:
PS. To tell you the truth, the best way to sand the ends of the rails is with a vertical belt sander with a nice stable jig rest to support the rails while you sand them, that way the sand paper is cutting straight down and has no chance of pulling back the nose of the cushions while being sanded
looks good, what blade are you using?
Sub-Rail Extensions
I am using a standard tooth wood blade for trimming, then a 10" sanding disk (thanks KC). This is a pretty universal tool, I do a lot more in the studio than work on pool tables. Custom crating, Welding, Engine work, even a car restoration planned for winter... That is just the beginning as soon as I finish my paint booth then I have much more. Here is a pic of my GC2 I just got done trimming tonight. The table is a 60's AMF figure 8 frame with new GC4 slates and a GC2 top. It is getting custom skirting but I haven't decided the style there yet.. The pockets at 4.5" 142deg with 15deg relief. Every time I set a table up to practice on, someone buys the damned thing. This weekend I will show you guys how I fix slate... when done it is much stronger than before the break. PS.. I can fix slate broken side to side accurately (not really worth the cost unless it was an antique though).
Rob
I am using a standard tooth wood blade for trimming, then a 10" sanding disk (thanks KC). This is a pretty universal tool, I do a lot more in the studio than work on pool tables. Custom crating, Welding, Engine work, even a car restoration planned for winter... That is just the beginning as soon as I finish my paint booth then I have much more. Here is a pic of my GC2 I just got done trimming tonight. The table is a 60's AMF figure 8 frame with new GC4 slates and a GC2 top. It is getting custom skirting but I haven't decided the style there yet.. The pockets at 4.5" 142deg with 15deg relief. Every time I set a table up to practice on, someone buys the damned thing. This weekend I will show you guys how I fix slate... when done it is much stronger than before the break. PS.. I can fix slate broken side to side accurately (not really worth the cost unless it was an antique though).
Rob