Cue Finish...

Zims Rack

Zims Rack

Promoting the Cueing Arts
Silver Member
I recently received some advice on spraying guns for finishes. The Preval aerosol came highly recommended to start out. http://www.dickblick.com/zz250/03/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1527 My father has been working with wood for many years and suggested that I try Deft clear coat for a finish http://www.deftfinishes.com/wood/clear.htm. I took the advice about both products and applied it last night to a cue I'm finishing. I sprayed about 3 coats on the cue while spinning slowly on the lathe. I placed a box over the cue while drying overnight to aid in keeping the dust off of it. This morning (8.5hrs later) I checked it and it looked really good. I couldn't see any bubbles (air pockets) or dust that accumulated. I added another 3 coats and it's covered up and drying now. I will check on it tonight around 6pm, that's another 12 hours of dry time. Depending on the outcome, I might add another layer. Otherwise I'll buff it and add a wax to it and buff it again.

Zim
 
I'm pretty sure, but the website I linked to has a tech data sheet! How thick do you think a finish should be? Or does it depend on the type of wood? I was thinking about 2 layers of 3 coats each. They say it dries in 30 minutes nad ready to apply second coat in 1 hour. I waited a little longer than that, due to my schedule.
I'll take photos tonight and post them later.

Zim
 
Well, our car finish is about 6 thou thick total.
I'm looking for non-auto finish for petes and this looks good.
If the finish is settling and flowing nice after the base coat, it's all up to you imo.
 
After getting home last night, I checked the status of the finish. This is the second coat applied and again, no bubbles, dust, very smooth finish. I buffed it a little and applied a coat of wax, let it dry about 5 minutes, then buffed it again and it looks really good! I will probably put another coat on it just to thicken it up a little. Last night I put a few coats on the shaft and it dried all night, this morning I put another coat on it. Tonight/tomorrow I'll buff it and finish the shaft. I'll post photos when completely finished!

Zim
 
Zims Rack said:
After getting home last night, I checked the status of the finish. This is the second coat applied and again, no bubbles, dust, very smooth finish. I buffed it a little and applied a coat of wax, let it dry about 5 minutes, then buffed it again and it looks really good! I will probably put another coat on it just to thicken it up a little. Last night I put a few coats on the shaft and it dried all night, this morning I put another coat on it. Tonight/tomorrow I'll buff it and finish the shaft. I'll post photos when completely finished!

Zim
Click to expand...

You want to know what percent of solids the finish has and how it bonds to it's self, I.E. burns in. Time between coats can be important with some finishes. The real secret is what you do after the finish is built up. The rub-out stage is what makes or breaks it. I have seen even high end cues that just were not there. I don't know if the cuemaker is just lazy or just doesn't know the difference. Even a cuemaker building moderate cues with a minimum of equipment can get a great finish. An amazing finish is the first thing the buyer notices and they will comment on it.
 
Zims Rack said:
...I buffed it a little and applied a coat of wax, let it dry about 5 minutes, then buffed it again and it looks really good! I will probably put another coat on it just to thicken it up a little.
Zim
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You may need to strip the wax off before you apply another coat.

Tracy
 
cue finish

I spray 9 coats of 2 part auto clear. Let dry over night. Sand,then spray 9 more coats. Let dry over night ,sand, then wet sand with 1000 paper,then wet sand with 1500. Then use several grades of rubbing compound,swirl removers & polishes. OR use a couple of coats of epoxy,sanding in between, then spray with the 2 part auto clear & repeat the sanding & polishing steps. SAFTEY when spraying these finishes, is MOST important...JER
 
Blackheart, when you say you apply 9 coats, let dry overnight, then sand....with what grit sandpaper do you start sanding? Do you sand the cue lengthwise between grits as is recommended when sanding raw wood? Which auto clear coat do you use? I'm just starting to experiment with the PPG Omni Clear product and an HVLP gun. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mark.
 
ragbug74 said:
Blackheart, when you say you apply 9 coats, let dry overnight, then sand....with what grit sandpaper do you start sanding? Do you sand the cue lengthwise between grits as is recommended when sanding raw wood? Which auto clear coat do you use? I'm just starting to experiment with the PPG Omni Clear product and an HVLP gun. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mark.
Click to expand...


I spray my Qs, while they are hanging. I use tape about 4 inches above the joint to hang them from a string. (Before spaying the 1st coat, I always wipe the cues down with mineral spirits). I spray from that point down, to the handle area, in a down & up motion,useing a touch up or door jam spray gun. Down-up-down,that's what I consider 3 coats. Then I repeat the 3 coats, on the rest of the Q. I use the DuPont Chroma Clear 2 part Automotive clear coat,so after about 2 minutes, I repeat with 3 more coats. Then in another 2 minutes ,the final 3,making 9 coats. Next morning I DRY SAND with the lathe spinning with 400,just to take the high spots down. Followed by 400,sanding WITH the grain. Repeat those steps with 600 & 1000. BE CAREFULL NOT TO SAND THROUGH. After spraying 9 more coats & letting dry over night,I sand use the same method starting with 600 dry & then 1000 WET,1200 WET & finally 1500 WET. I then use several grits of rubbing compound,each with the lathe turning & always ending in a with-the-grain motion. The 1st 3 coats can be eliminated by appliing a couple of coats of epoxy(sanding between coats). I know that I'm leaving myself open to every Qmaker for comments,but I'm an old pinstripper & air brush artist & self taught Qmaker. This works for me & if it can help someone else get started, then I'm willing to take the heat. I CAN'T STRESS ENOUGH, THAT THESE PAINTS WILL KILL YOU, IF YOU DON'T HAVE ADEQUATE VENTALATION. BE CAREFULL...JER
 
Thanks for the step-by-step of great info. One other question...do you have a spray booth of some type that you do all this in? I'm trying to figure out how I can build such a booth to capture and vent the overspray. Thanks again!
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I spray my Qs, while they are hanging. I use tape about 4 inches above the joint to hang them from a string. (Before spaying the 1st coat, I always wipe the cues down with mineral spirits). I spray from that point down, to the handle area, in a down & up motion,useing a touch up or door jam spray gun. Down-up-down,that's what I consider 3 coats. Then I repeat the 3 coats, on the rest of the Q. I use the DuPont Chroma Clear 2 part Automotive clear coat,so after about 2 minutes, I repeat with 3 more coats. Then in another 2 minutes ,the final 3,making 9 coats. Next morning I DRY SAND with the lathe spinning with 400,just to take the high spots down. Followed by 400,sanding WITH the grain. Repeat those steps with 600 & 1000. BE CAREFULL NOT TO SAND THROUGH. After spraying 9 more coats & letting dry over night,I sand use the same method starting with 600 dry & then 1000 WET,1200 WET & finally 1500 WET. I then use several grits of rubbing compound,each with the lathe turning & always ending in a with-the-grain motion. The 1st 3 coats can be eliminated by appliing a couple of coats of epoxy(sanding between coats). I know that I'm leaving myself open to every Qmaker for comments,but I'm an old pinstripper & air brush artist & self taught Qmaker. This works for me & if it can help someone else get started, then I'm willing to take the heat. I CAN'T STRESS ENOUGH, THAT THESE PAINTS WILL KILL YOU, IF YOU DON'T HAVE ADEQUATE VENTALATION. BE CAREFULL...JER
Click to expand...

Thanks Jer

The cue I talked to you about turned out BAD...lots of orange peel. When I tried sanding it smooth I, of course :mad: sanded through the finish.

So...now I'm preparing to do it all again using your instructions and this time I'll spray it myself. My body shop owner friend insisted on spraying it for me returning a favor. He used some sort of urethane he had laying around.

I'm preparing the cue today and will get it sprayed this weekend...maybe, but thanks for all your help on the phone and now here!

See ya. Jim
 
Spray Booth

ragbug74 said:
Thanks for the step-by-step of great info. One other question...do you have a spray booth of some type that you do all this in? I'm trying to figure out how I can build such a booth to capture and vent the overspray. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
I have a small spray booth in my garage, that I bought from a local factory,when they went out of business. I only use it for small repair jobs. I'm really lucky, in that my brother has a furniture refinishing business. He has a LARGE paint booth,big enough to paint a car in. That's the booth that I use, to spray the finish on my Qs. I don't know anything about them,but if you'll go to www.eastwood.com,they have some,but small booths. I don't know anything about them,but you could give it a try..JER
 
ragbug74 said:
Thanks for the step-by-step of great info. One other question...do you have a spray booth of some type that you do all this in? I'm trying to figure out how I can build such a booth to capture and vent the overspray. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

In addition to a spray booth - which you HAVE TO HAVE with the auto finish, you should invest in an ambient air system so you are not breathing the fumes when you are in the spray booth spraying (even with the ventilation and air movement you will have fumes). An air system will allow you to breathe air from an outside source. Do take care when spraying - as it was said - this is nasty stuff and can kill you.
John Madden
www.johnmaddencues.com
 
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