Cue Lathe from Cowboy Billiards

JCurry

can I use my mulligan?
Silver Member
Has anyone else used one of the so-called Cue Lathes that you can buy from 'American Cowboy Billiards' on eBay?

I bought one of these a few months ago, and unless I have unrealistic expectations, it's the biggest piece of junk I've ever seen or used.

Does anyone else have any experience with one of these?
 
which did you buy?
They had a booth at the apa nationals I think.It seemed fairly rudamnety but looked like it will work.
But they are not a proper lathe as such. The guy doing the demo did not really convince me it was really good. I think you would be way better off getting a hightower or something like that. I know they are alot more money. But I think it would be money well spent if you want to get into making a pool cue or cue repair.
 
I was at APA Nationals and I don't think he (Bob Moss) was there. Good thing too, I probably would have made a scene.

I think you are thinking of the Shaft Master guy. He was in the smaller vendor area acrosss from McDermott and the Pool Challenge card game where Mike Massey was.
 
I had one along time ago it worked ok to clean shafts or shape tips, as a spinner, But if you want a lathe this will never even be close.And the fact that you have to tape up the shaft so the wheels don't mar the shaft is useless it's self. Then you have to clean that tape and sticky off, I would just take off the guide rollers on the end and use it to clean and wax shafts , thats it ...I gave it away,,,<<ED
 
Has anyone else used one of the so-called Cue Lathes that you can buy from 'American Cowboy Billiards' on eBay?

I bought one of these a few months ago, and unless I have unrealistic expectations, it's the biggest piece of junk I've ever seen or used.

Does anyone else have any experience with one of these?

The lathe didn't impress me from the pictures, BUT, I may order one of his steady rest/tailstocks just to steady the butts when I re-tip one-piece house cues.


just more hot air!


Sherm
 
The lathe didn't impress me from the pictures, BUT, I may order one of his steady rest/tailstocks just to steady the butts when I re-tip one-piece house cues.


just more hot air!


Sherm

Just be carefull those wheels in the steady rest, will put pressure on whats ever in them and mark them so make sure you tape whatever you have in them up, as cowboy Bob, suggest...<<ED
 
The lathe didn't impress me from the pictures, BUT, I may order one of his steady rest/tailstocks just to steady the butts when I re-tip one-piece house cues.


just more hot air!


Sherm

I wouldn't if I were you. The wheels are super hard rubber and will leave a physical ring on the shaft even if you tape it! Also, the bearings leak. Save yourself the headache.
 
All of the "cowboy billiards" items are junk. You would be better off going to the flea market or just making what you need yourself. I bought the lathe arbor not too long ago with the intention of not having to use pins anymore. The thing fit not one of the shafts I had and I tried them on 6. I emailed him about this problem and he said that it states in the instructions to tape the arbor to the shaft. If it stated that in the desription I would have never bought the damn thing. I replied about how ghetto and unprofessional that is and sent it back. I got a partial refund. So I encourage all not to do any business with these people.
 
I spoke with him a long time ago and did not like his attitude. He is very rude to say the least. Also you can see his so called lathe is a piece of junk. All his stuff looks mickey mouse to me.
 
Not to Highjack this guys thread or nothing but I got a lathe on here from a member that makes to levels of lathes... a basic and a pro model. Both are great set ups.. His user name on here is tsb&p ,,,his name id Todd and he will set you up.. I knoe he has alot of back orders, but he does this on the side as a hobby , I guess you could say. Tell him ED told ya to contact him. LOL. I sent a couple people to him already, I don't know what the final out come was but some of them are waiting for him to get what he needs to send out to them ,, but how ever it will be worth the wait.. Todd takes care of you... <<<ED
 
Not to Highjack this guys thread or nothing but I got a lathe on here from a member that makes to levels of lathes... a basic and a pro model. Both are great set ups.. His user name on here is tsb&p ,,,his name id Todd and he will set you up.. I knoe he has alot of back orders, but he does this on the side as a hobby , I guess you could say. Tell him ED told ya to contact him. LOL. I sent a couple people to him already, I don't know what the final out come was but some of them are waiting for him to get what he needs to send out to them ,, but how ever it will be worth the wait.. Todd takes care of you... <<<ED

I don't mind at all. Thanks for the info. Once I get my money back after the credit card dispute (Oh yeah, did I mention that he refuses to let you return his crap?) I will spend some time looking into some 'real' equipment.
 
Not to Highjack this guys thread or nothing but I got a lathe on here from a member that makes to levels of lathes... a basic and a pro model. Both are great set ups.. His user name on here is tsb&p ,,,his name id Todd and he will set you up.. I knoe he has alot of back orders, but he does this on the side as a hobby , I guess you could say. Tell him ED told ya to contact him. LOL. I sent a couple people to him already, I don't know what the final out come was but some of them are waiting for him to get what he needs to send out to them ,, but how ever it will be worth the wait.. Todd takes care of you... <<<ED


I bought the pro model off of tsb&p (Tood). I'm glad I did. A great lathe at a great price. He is so helpful too.
 
Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss
 
Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss


Josh you better off to get a REAL LATHE. As you can tell you get what you pay for.
 
Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss

Bob, you're a fraud and a liar. I can only hope that enough people learn that before they have to go through what I did.
 
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Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss

Man, I am glad this guy responded....shows everyone here what kind of person you will be dealing with..

Thanks Bob for doing us all a favor!

Oh, and you cant just come on here and call people idiots...that childish behavior will get you banned

Thanks for letting me respond :grin:
Shawn

ps. and if i have to TAPE anything to make it secure...I obviously dont need it since its monkey rigged anyways
 
Last edited:
Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss

You couldn't replace a tennon if your life depended on it. Who are you trying to kid??? Wrapping stuff with tape, talk about mickey mouse. Your a joke!!!
 
Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss

i unfortunately bought one of these lathes with the thought of learning tip replacement and shaft reconditioning, boy did i get suckered! the "drive cups" not only are the wrong size but mine were also not center drilled. anything i put in them wobbled horribly. the 1/3 horse motor mentioned will not keep a shaft spinning fast enough to even clean much less anything heavier! the rollers, no matter how much tape i used still marked the shaft with burn marks and a couple were left with grooves in the wood. the bearings sling so much grease out it's not funny. in short, i got taken. i ended up giving it away to someone after fair warning who wanted to try to re engineer it. i bought one of chris hightower's micro lathes and have not looked back since. my advice - stay away from cowboy billiards "lathe"

Mike
 
Hi Brian. You did read not the description on the item or the instructions on the drive cups when you received them. It clearly says to use a piece of painter tape to protect the finish "on the collar of your shaft" and hold it securely in the drive cup. You DON"T tape it to the drive cup. The drive cups are a .875 id. Most shafts are .835-.847 with some being larger. A single wrap of tape around the shaft collar holds it secure. The blue painters tape leaves no tape residue by the way. I've sold hundreds of these with excellent responce to customers that can read and follow instructions.
By the way--"You received a full refund less shipping/handling"

Our lathe uses a 1/3 hp woodworking motor with varaible spped foot controller. We also offer a constant speed regulator as an option.

Josh Curry by the way is an idiot that tried to rewire and modify our lathe using a light dimmer switch to control the speed. He burned the motor up. He also cut off the wires on the foot switch then tried to resolder them unsucessfully and hide it with white heat tape. He then returned the damaged lathe after using it for 6 months wanting a refund and only returning some of the items he purchased and used extensively. His refund was denied by the credit card company after we submited photos of what he had done to the lathe.
As for the roller we use an industrial hard rubber roller for stability and precision. We also supply a free shaft collet with the lathe or roller rest.
Only an idiot would place a shaft in a piece of equipment, chuck or roller rest without using a shaft collet. You can try to run our lathe down but

They work great for what they are designed for. It is not a cuemaking lathe nor is it designed to be or advertised as one. If you want a cuemaking lathe I would suggest you contact "Cuesmith" AKA Chris Hightower. He makes an excellent product.
Our lathe is a basic cue repair lathe for retipping cues, shaft cleaning, refinishing shafts, replacing tenons rewraping butts ect.
Thanks for the chance to respond.
Bob Moss

I don't see what Bob did wrong. In fact, if Bob's side of the story is true, it is the OP who is wrong for making Bob look bad. If he did in fact attempt to alter the product without having the proper knowledge, screw it up, and then try to cover up his mistake, after using it for six months, then, ask for a refund, I would have called the OP worse than an idiot.

If that is the truth, I think Bob came on here and defended himself with class. If it not the truth, I think finding that out is the priority. I think the OP could've learned from his mistake and moved on without going back and dwelling on it.

I personally don't know the details, but I have done business with Bob before, and even talked to him on the phone. He is knowledgeable and does prompt business. His lathe is what it is, but I don't see that he is trying to deceive anyone, and if you have the proper knowledge and ability, you can get the job done with it!

I think we should take a minute before pointing fingers for no reason. This same thing happened to Doug Patrick when saddlebow got his panties in a bunch and tried to ruin his reputation out of impatience. People are quick to jump on the the guy who appears to be in quicksand just because it looks fun and everyone else is doing it. I think we should better know more details from both sides before we smear someone's name.

It's so easy to be a smart a$$ and get others to laugh at someone's mistake, but those are often the first people to cover up their own wrong doing by being blind.
 
I could go into great detail about what is true and what is a lie in Bob's post about me. But honestly, it's not worth my time. He has obviously become very good at pointing the finger as us 'idiot' customers. Is every one of us an 'idiot' customer, or do you think it's more likely that his wares are crap?

I have bought other things from him like tips and stuff and did not have a bad experience until I bought one of his home-made-hacked-together-piece-of-complete-junk-so-called-cue-lathes. He goes from being friendly to rude and insulting the second you complain about something.
 
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