Cue Shaft Wax - Will good old car wax work

PoolFan101

PoolFan101

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello ,

I just used my last bit of Q -wax and I was wondering if just plain old carnuba wax would work , Car wax. I have also seen some with Brazilian wax. Would it do the same job or does Q -wax have something in it for Wood that makes it special. Also I have Johnson's paste wax for Wood , But I do not like the smell . I like to seal the shafts with a coat of it when i am done cleaning the shafts. What do you guys like to use . Thanks
 
PoolFan101 said:
Hello ,

I just used my last bit of Q -wax and I was wondering if just plain old carnuba wax would work , Car wax. I have also seen some with Brazilian wax. Would it do the same job or does Q -wax have something in it for Wood that makes it special. Also I have Johnson's paste wax for Wood , But I do not like the smell . I like to seal the shafts with a coat of it when i am done cleaning the shafts. What do you guys like to use . Thanks
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From their site:

"The Chem-Pak Q Wax is formulated with the finest Carnauba Wax to give your pool cue the ultimate protection. Use regularly to help preserve the natural characteristics of the wood. For optimal results, use Chem-Pak's Q Cloth (CPS00002) between treatments to help keep the cue clean and free of harmful dirt and oils. The Chem-Pak Q Wax features:

  • Helps preserve the natural characteristics of the wood
  • Formulated with the finest Carnauba Wax
  • 2 Oz."
Carnauba wax is possibly the finest wax ever for indoor things.

Also great as a car wax, but it doesn't hold up well to weather.

I hope that helps.
 
PoolFan101 said:
Hello ,

I just used my last bit of Q -wax and I was wondering if just plain old carnuba wax would work , Car wax. I have also seen some with Brazilian wax. Would it do the same job or does Q -wax have something in it for Wood that makes it special. Also I have Johnson's paste wax for Wood , But I do not like the smell . I like to seal the shafts with a coat of it when i am done cleaning the shafts. What do you guys like to use . Thanks
Click to expand...
Why are you sniffing your shafts? ;) Carnuba works fine.
 
PoolFan101 said:
Hello ,

I just used my last bit of Q -wax and I was wondering if just plain old carnuba wax would work , Car wax. I have also seen some with Brazilian wax. Would it do the same job or does Q -wax have something in it for Wood that makes it special. Also I have Johnson's paste wax for Wood , But I do not like the smell . I like to seal the shafts with a coat of it when i am done cleaning the shafts. What do you guys like to use . Thanks
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The guy who does my tips puts this on the shaft after he cleans it. He puts a light coat while its spinning on the lathe then buffs it with a clean towel.

 
garczar said:
Why are you sniffing your shafts? ;) Carnuba works fine.
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It does have a slight smell, OP is possibly using too much ... although some people are more/less smell tolerant. It doesn't bug me, but its not my nose either.

As a tip ... if you think you used enough wax, you probably used too much. The buff stage is the important one. The goal is to use as little product as possible and then let the friction heat thin it and the polisher or rag can spread it. Less product and a bit more work will yield a better result For a rag I would suggest a microfiber made for glass.
 
I would not use Johnson's paste wax, lot of solvents, mix of soft waxes, and very little if any carnuba. Would be a chalk dust magnet. Carnuba auto wax works great as a wax for shafts, and is a nice hard non greasy wax. Another option I have never herd mentioned here is buying a bar of pure carnuba that is sold to woodworkers for buffing wood. You could get a bar for 10 bucks or so, and lightly rub it on the shaft and buff it in with a rag.
 

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Biloxi Boy said:
Renaissance -- Micro-crystalline Wax Polish by Picreator Enterprises, Ltd.

Accept no substitutes. Buy the 200 ml/7 fl. oz. size can.
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Only the best! Formulated to protect the antiquities in the Royal Museum, ergo, good enough for a cue shaft.

hank
 
TheBasics said:
Only the best! Formulated to protect the antiquities in the Royal Museum, ergo, good enough for a cue shaft.

hank
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I imagine it seals well - as would carnauba. Have yet to try any; currently going off on other Amazonian artifacts. I wonder what the resulting drag coefficient is though. I used to use liquid polish with carnauba in it but as soon as the silicone wore off, there was still some residual friction. Someone recommended sanding sealer and I'm tempted to go that route followed with silicone.
 
straightline said:
I imagine it seals well - as would carnauba. Have yet to try any; currently going off on other Amazonian artifacts. I wonder what the resulting drag coefficient is though. I used to use liquid polish with carnauba in it but as soon as the silicone wore off, there was still some residual friction. Someone recommended sanding sealer and I'm tempted to go that route followed with silicone.
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In reality, the sanding sealer should be a different process, after the shaft is cleaned or repaired, sanded smoot, and then the shaft should be burnished with a good wax. Carnauba waxes work well. The trick with the waxing process is to get enough heat in the burnishing to evaporate the liquid from the wax, leaving only the wax itself on the shaft, which by itself is very hard. Then final sanding to desired slickness is last. If done correctly, the final sanding material removed will be white, meaning it is not wood you are sanding, it is the wax shell over the wood. Your shaft will stay slick and clean for a very long time this way with only a brisk wipe down after play as long as you don't sand of the wax coating and the sanding sealer beneath it.
 
I tried some of the synthetic wax I got for my car, seems like it worked very well also. Have not tried any of the ceramic waxes on the cue but I'm guessing it will work pretty well also.
 
Renegade_56 said:
In reality, the sanding sealer should be a different process, after the shaft is cleaned or repaired, sanded smoot, and then the shaft should be burnished with a good wax. Carnauba waxes work well. The trick with the waxing process is to get enough heat in the burnishing to evaporate the liquid from the wax, leaving only the wax itself on the shaft, which by itself is very hard. Then final sanding to desired slickness is last. If done correctly, the final sanding material removed will be white, meaning it is not wood you are sanding, it is the wax shell over the wood. Your shaft will stay slick and clean for a very long time this way with only a brisk wipe down after play as long as you don't sand of the wax coating and the sanding sealer beneath it.
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I'd use it just to seal the grain and level it. If the wood is sealed, the wax should stay on the surface right?
 
hang-the-9 said:
I tried some of the synthetic wax I got for my car, seems like it worked very well also. Have not tried any of the ceramic waxes on the cue but I'm guessing it will work pretty well also.
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I've been doing this for decades. I get near glove slickness without laundry issues (the glove). Can't speak to any health hazards but no alien growths so far.
 
straightline said:
I wonder what the resulting drag coefficient is though.
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I've wondered about that, too. Sometimes my guitar will stick to my arm as I'm strumming. Maybe I'm not buffing enough because wax (Mother's pure carnauba) doesn't help as much as I'd like.

A fresh satin finish is my favorite, followed by that 100 year old handrail that's been polished by 100,000 hands.
 
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