Cue tip replacement (how often?)

I have a tip lathe, and changed tips a bit at first but finally just left one on for about a year now.
I'm dreading changing it as I have really grown to like it the harder it has gotten. Problem is there is only about 1/16" left on the edge so I'll be forced to change shortly. Easy to change, just won't be like I'm used to for awhile.
Its a Ultraskin medium black, and as to those that say you can't draw with a hard tip, I have no problem, infact it seems I am more easily able to draw with this tip the harder it has gotten. Not sure really how much tip hardness matters as long as it is well chalked.
 
It is more than just hours played.

You have to add in how often do you tinker with the tip with shapers and with what aggressiveness.
Are you a chalk grinder, do you chalk every shot, multiple times while aiming etc.
 
I change mine when it gets down to about a dime's width on the sides.

If you have a good tip there's really no need to change it otherwise. And BTW, in my opinion, one of the worst things you can do is to be constantly scruffing your tip. (And oh, please, don't do the fire-starter thing and turn your cue upside down and rotate it into one of those glass encrusted cubes that pretty much does nothing but shred your tip and make your cue mechanic and tip manufacturer happy.) It will change how much traction you'll get but, guess what, it goes back to where it was and in the interim you're basically playing a guessing game of constant adjustment.

So sad for you, so happy for your opponent.

Lou Figueroa
 
I get it changed, like others, when the thickness is preventing further re-shaping - making an automatic 'hardness' that comes from proximity to ferrule, not the compression of leather.

I re-shape to avoid flatness (more so now that I am playing with bigger tips than previously) - Had two tips tidied up last night. Always after a session, never before... Easier to convince myself they need doing when I didn't play so well...

Spent about 15 minutes hitting long stop shots with each after. Just so they don't feel completely alien to me the next time I play.

The Longoni 'M' - had a nicer feel when new than the Moori 'M' - both on their second 'tidy' - Longoni still feels nicer now. I am still waiting for them to harden up a little and play the way I like. I don't trim tips as short as some people like, as I feel that gives the tip better longevity and compression opportunity. I don't like 'mushrooming' and trim to avoid. (I only have a year or so of experience to draw on regarding that, and the advice of some friends... When playing snooker I used to use rock hard tips, and found that unsuitable for playing pool)


IMG_0051 Large.jpeg


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Ignorance of proper shaping techniques will lead to over maintaining the tip and "shortening" its life.

The combination of low knowledge and my first tip being a Kamui clear I totally misunderstood tip maintenance. I was shaping my tip every time I went out to play. Part of it was the Kamui which IMO "glazes" over too quickly. I was roughing it up regularly. I got tired of it and replaced it with a Thoroughbred Med tip. I no longer had to rough it up constantly. so that helped. Problem 1 solved.

Problem 2: Because I did not understand the correct radius shaping concept yet, I had the impression that I had to have a perfect nickel/dime radius all the time. I would use the Willard tool every night to make the tip a perfect dome to fit the notch in the tool. All this grinding took its toll on the tip quickly. After some time playing, reading, and a DUH moment, I came to the realization that the tip it's a piece of leather not a rock. OK, start again with a new tip.

Now with my new enlightenment I know the tip will not ever hold the perfect dome shape. The center will start to flatten out a little pretty much right away as soon as you start to play (depending on the hardness or course). That slight gap in the middle of the Willard curve is fine, it is the outer curve you check. No more grinding to keep a perfect shape. I have been using the Ultraskin Ivory Medium and I only need to lightly shape it once or twice a month at most.

Here is my tip which is 8 months old. It gets played an average 5 days a week. As long as it feels right and isn't in the 2-3 layer, it has lots of life left.

IMG_6811.jpeg
 
7stud said:
Is there any difference between the Ultraskin Black, Ivory, and Fire except for color?
Click to expand...
Yes but they're subtle. Blacks are generally the firmest then the Fire and the Ivory. You'd just have to try them yourself.
 
Like Measureman, I play @3 cues and 6 shafts,(sneaky not counted). They all last about 2 years. Down to the 2nd or 3rd layer. I have different brands on each cue.
 
lfigueroa said:
I change mine when it gets down to about a dime's width on the sides.

If you have a good tip there's really no need to change it otherwise. And BTW, in my opinion, one of the worst things you can do is to be constantly scruffing your tip. (And oh, please, don't do the fire-starter thing and turn your cue upside down and rotate it into one of those glass encrusted cubes that pretty much does nothing but shred your tip and make your cue mechanic and tip manufacturer happy.) It will change how much traction you'll get but, guess what, it goes back to where it was and in the interim you're basically playing a guessing game of constant adjustment.

So sad for you, so happy for your opponent.

Lou Figueroa
Click to expand...
I find I get glazing and am more prone to miscues after about a week of play, so I use the file portion of tip tool to make the tip show a bit of fuzz.

You dont experience the glazing, or do you find little need for extremes on English(es)?

I do tend to play sloppy angles and I am a bit of a masher...maybe my shot needs are the difference?

Also, how about a tool like the kamui gator? I see top TOP pros roll their tips into those a couple times a set.

Interested...
 
Black-Balled said:
I find I get glazing and am more prone to miscues after about a week of play, so I use the file portion of tip tool to make the tip show a bit of fuzz.

You dont experience the glazing, or do you find little need for extremes on English(es)?

I do tend to play sloppy angles and I am a bit of a masher...maybe my shot needs are the difference?

Also, how about a tool like the kamui gator? I see top TOP pros roll their tips into those a couple times a set.

Interested...
Click to expand...

My tips, G2m and KamuiSS glaze, but I’ve found that it doesn’t matter with Taom, so I don’t scruff.

Lou Figueroa
tips are lasting
much longer : -)
 
lfigueroa said:
My tips, G2m and KamuiSS glaze, but I’ve found that it doesn’t matter with Taom, so I don’t scruff.

Lou Figueroa
tips are lasting
much longer : -)
Click to expand...
I'm on a taom med or kamui med. Had both installed on 2 shafts, a pool one and a billiard one.

Using masters.

Hmmm
 
lfigueroa said:
I change mine when it gets down to about a dime's width on the sides.

If you have a good tip there's really no need to change it otherwise. And BTW, in my opinion, one of the worst things you can do is to be constantly scruffing your tip. (And oh, please, don't do the fire-starter thing and turn your cue upside down and rotate it into one of those glass encrusted cubes that pretty much does nothing but shred your tip and make your cue mechanic and tip manufacturer happy.) It will change how much traction you'll get but, guess what, it goes back to where it was and in the interim you're basically playing a guessing game of constant adjustment.

So sad for you, so happy for your opponent.

Lou Figueroa
Click to expand...
Got your Xmas present picked out...
Screenshot_20231207-215940.jpg
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Ignorance of proper shaping techniques will lead to over maintaining the tip and "shortening" its life.

The combination of low knowledge and my first tip being a Kamui clear I totally misunderstood tip maintenance. I was shaping my tip every time I went out to play. Part of it was the Kamui which IMO "glazes" over too quickly. I was roughing it up regularly. I got tired of it and replaced it with a Thoroughbred Med tip. I no longer had to rough it up constantly. so that helped. Problem 1 solved.

Problem 2: Because I did not understand the correct radius shaping concept yet, I had the impression that I had to have a perfect nickel/dime radius all the time. I would use the Willard tool every night to make the tip a perfect dome to fit the notch in the tool. All this grinding took its toll on the tip quickly. After some time playing, reading, and a DUH moment, I came to the realization that the tip it's a piece of leather not a rock. OK, start again with a new tip.

Now with my new enlightenment I know the tip will not ever hold the perfect dome shape. The center will start to flatten out a little pretty much right away as soon as you start to play (depending on the hardness or course). That slight gap in the middle of the Willard curve is fine, it is the outer curve you check. No more grinding to keep a perfect shape. I have been using the Ultraskin Ivory Medium and I only need to lightly shape it once or twice a month at most.

Here is my tip which is 8 months old. It gets played an average 5 days a week. As long as it feels right and isn't in the 2-3 layer, it has lots of life left.

View attachment 731416
Click to expand...
This is spot on, as long as you keep it that shape, it will last a long time. The secret to any tips lasting, Is try and do as little to it, as possible. I'm on a nice
Lepro at the moment 2 and a half months old. i know if i leave it alone, it will stay that shape. Until it wears right down.
 
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