cueball's dies coming off rail

havoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i know how to kill the cueball using draw.i can stop the cueball on straight in or fairly straight in shots,and kill it with a lot of low spin.
but i'm getting the same effect(unwanted) when i use follow.i had a situation tonight where i was shooting a long shot,needed to make the shot come off the bottom rail and back towards where i was shooting from.i made the shot using follow with a little right english,but the cue hit the rail came off a lil and died.i hit it pretty hard but it didn't help.why is this happening?
 
havoc said:
i know how to kill the cueball using draw.i can stop the cueball on straight in or fairly straight in shots,and kill it with a lot of low spin.
but i'm getting the same effect(unwanted) when i use follow.i had a situation tonight where i was shooting a long shot,needed to make the shot come off the bottom rail and back towards where i was shooting from.i made the shot using follow with a little right english,but the cue hit the rail came off a lil and died.i hit it pretty hard but it didn't help.why is this happening?
Too much top spin. It comes off the rail and is still spinning forward. Use less follow, so you rolling into the rail, to get better results.

Tracy
 
havoc said:
i know how to kill the cueball using draw.i can stop the cueball on straight in or fairly straight in shots,and kill it with a lot of low spin.
but i'm getting the same effect(unwanted) when i use follow.i had a situation tonight where i was shooting a long shot,needed to make the shot come off the bottom rail and back towards where i was shooting from.i made the shot using follow with a little right english,but the cue hit the rail came off a lil and died.i hit it pretty hard but it didn't help.why is this happening?

In short, because you hit it hard.When you hit a ball hard with follow, and it quickly gets to a rail with most of it's force and spin intact, the follow tends to still be in effect after the force is expended to a certain extent by hitting the rail. Then, the main force acting on the cue ball is forward spin fighting to keep it from getting back up table.

What I've found to work for me is to put as little actual force into the cue ball as possible, while executing the smoothest possible follow stroke. As it is, it may still be very difficult to get completely back down table if you have the wrong angle.

On a side note, this shot can be used to hold the cue ball at that end of the table for position on your next shot, when you do not want to slow roll the cue ball. I've had people ask me how I made the cue ball slow down when hitting it fairly hard.

It's a good shot to have in your bag, if you use it correctly.

Russ
 
well i don't know how close to the pocket the ball was but if it's a hanger you can hit the object ball very thin and still make it but make sure you use a center hit on the cue ball and buy hitting the ob thin the cue ball will still have plenty of energy to rebound back down to the other end.
 
After the cue ball contacts the rail the follow becomes reverse spin, if it's not a full hit try using low stuff which will turn into follow when it hits the rail.
 
Let me guess, the object ball was sitting a few inches from the pocket, right? If you use follow and slam it, the cue ball does what it did to you. Never use follow on these shots.

Instead, there are a couple of shots that are standard.

- You hit the cueball very easy and clip the object ball thin (cheat the pocket) and the cueball will rebound right back at you with almost the same speed you used. You can control the direction of the cueball by how much of the object ball you catch.

- You can use outside english, center or draw, and hit about half ball on the object ball. This will send the cue ball on 2 or 3 rail shape. Practice that and remember the path the cue ball takes. If you remember what diamond you are hitting into on the third rail (past the side pocket), try to hit the same one again and again. You will be amazed how that one move can get you down table in a totally controllable, predictable path.

- The last one I use is thin hit with inside english. This sends the cueball on a path stright down table along the rail. If you use light english with practice you can aim the cueball where you want.

Chris
 
Are there some official terms for that shot? On a few Accu-Stats tapes, I've heard Danny DiLiberto call it "High Karate". I like that. LOL.
 
Cuebacca said:
Are there some official terms for that shot? On a few Accu-Stats tapes, I've heard Danny DiLiberto call it "High Karate". I like that. LOL.


I would vote for "force follow burn " or "follow burn-out". You know how those dragsters burn rubber but the car doesn't go anywhere - it kind of reminds me of that.
 
TATE said:
I would vote for "force follow burn " or "follow burn-out". You know how those dragsters burn rubber but the car doesn't go anywhere - it kind of reminds me of that.

Hey, that's a good one! One could say, "let it turn and burn", or "do a U-turn cue-burn". :D
 
Cuebacca said:
Hey, that's a good one! One could say, "let it turn and burn", or "do a U-turn cue-burn". :D

I think you got the winner, a "U-turn" shot. Perfect. :)

Chris
 
Cuebacca said:
Hey, that's a good one! One could say, "let it turn and burn", or "do a U-turn cue-burn". :D

I think you got the winner, a "U-turn" shot. Perfect. :)

Chris

Ps. We should videotape some of these strange shots and start a "name this shot" thread.
 
Cuebacca said:
Are there some official terms for that shot? On a few Accu-Stats tapes, I've heard Danny DiLiberto call it "High Karate". I like that. LOL.
At snooker, it's called the banana shot, I believe.
 
havoc said:
(shoots banana shot) why is this happening?
This question demonstrates the usefulness of some trick shots. The first book on pool I got was Willie Mosconi's "Wiinning Pocket Billiards," which includes a section at the back on trick shots, including the extended banana shot. If you know that trick shot, you know what to expect from the shot you had trouble with. There are lots of other trick shots that illustrate extreme situations at pool that are useful to know about.

By a curious coincidence, Robert Byrne discusses this shot in his column this month in "On The Break News" which has a free, non-membership, anyone can read it version on-line. See:

http://www.onthebreaknews.com/Page11.htm
 
Bob Jewett said:
This question demonstrates the usefulness of some trick shots. The first book on pool I got was Willie Mosconi's "Wiinning Pocket Billiards," which includes a section at the back on trick shots, including the extended banana shot. If you know that trick shot, you know what to expect from the shot you had trouble with. There are lots of other trick shots that illustrate extreme situations at pool that are useful to know about.

By a curious coincidence, Robert Byrne discusses this shot in his column this month in "On The Break News" which has a free, non-membership, anyone can read it version on-line. See:

http://www.onthebreaknews.com/Page11.htm

Thanks Bob, good stuff. I never really thought of trick shots as being useful but you just gave me a new perspective on them.

Chris
 
havoc said:
i know how to kill the cueball using draw.i can stop the cueball on straight in or fairly straight in shots,and kill it with a lot of low spin.
but i'm getting the same effect(unwanted) when i use follow.i had a situation tonight where i was shooting a long shot,needed to make the shot come off the bottom rail and back towards where i was shooting from.i made the shot using follow with a little right english,but the cue hit the rail came off a lil and died.i hit it pretty hard but it didn't help.why is this happening?
Everyone's correctly assuming you suffered rail dribble or the 'banana shot' as it's been called above. Did the cb hit the rail and then curve back towards it or did it roll off straight as expected only with severely decreased speed?.

If the latter, sometimes if you grip way too tight it can make the cue play dead and you loose all your action. Also, if the righthand english you used was inside that can slow the cb down somewhat. The rail could have a dead spot, a gap between the rubber rail and the wood which acts like a pillow and stalls the cb. Maybe you just didn't get a clean hit on it, who knows, but there are a lot of reasons it could have happened.:)

The others are probably right though, you probably over hit it with too much topspin. I'm just thinking up other scenarios.:)
 
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