Cuemaker need for custom project idea.

swami4u

swami4u

Banned
OK i have to admit, I'm clueless when it comes to the building of a CORED cue. That doesn't mean the idea i have is bad! :grin-square:

Here is what i need, If its not possible, please let me know.... I think it is.

I need a super plain Jane butt made with ancient straight grain maple.
I would like the core to be ONE PIECE from butt cap to joint. I would need
the core to be routed undersized a certain amount. I will give that size
after i get someone to build the cue. It is VITAL that the maple used to make this cue be very very well seasoned. I would prefer over 10 years++
I would also be willing to look at another type of wood with some age on it also.

So i guess what I'm getting at is.. a one piece butt cored its length,
with joint on,with the core separate.... ready to put core into cue......delivered.

Also the grip section will be turned down a little more then normal also.
Again this measurement will be given when i get someone that can make it.
1 shaft. (ill supply the shaft wood)


Again, need info on if this is possible.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
QMAKER said:
Sounds interesting, but I'll pass. Good luck with this one.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info..............

If there is something in the coring technique that is not possible, it would be helpful for me, if someone could actually explain why you couldn't core a
one piece cue.

Maybe im not explaining what i need good enough.....Ill try better.

Lets take a full spice house cue for example. I would cut cue in half, and core the WHOLE butt section. I would need the core 'rod' (for lack of a better word) to be made undersized a certain amount. I would want to
bore the cue as large as possible without cracking it. My idea is about the core itself, not the construction of the cue. Matter of fact if someone has a cue that is not going to be sold due to bad inlay, bad point work, ect ect...
And you have the equipment to bore the cue...that would work perfect...
And the cue after tested, would be sent to the fire place.
I could even youtube the destruction! :thumbup:
We could even use one of the pre made blanks. If your a cue maker, that can bore the cue, that is all i need right now. Forget about the good maple wood, after thinking more, would be better to just use a cheapo blank to test my idea.
 
Sounds easy enough.
Use a shaft rod.
Why do u want to declare the size of the dowel?
If it's oddball ( not .633 or .758 or .875-.883 ) can you supply the drill from drillmaster?
 
JoeyInCali said:
Sounds easy enough.
Use a shaft rod.
Why do u want to declare the size of the dowel?
If it's oddball ( not .633 or .758 or .875-.883 ) can you supply the drill from drillmaster?
Click to expand...


The bore hole can be standard, Rod needs to be a little under the bore hole size. I will do more research on how much smaller and let you know.
I would prefer the largest bore size we can use. maybe .883????
I want the walls as thin as possible. Still allowing the dowel to go in without
cracking the cue.

I could work something out if we need to buy a bigger drill. I know it sounds
funny now, but i need the bore hole to be as big as humanly possible without
cracking the butt of cue when boring. Might take some trial and error....
So, using cheap but good blanks at first might be the way to go, i don't hate my money! :grin:
 
swami4u said:
The bore hole can be standard, Rod needs to be a little under the bore hole size. I will do more research on how much smaller and let you know.
I would prefer the largest bore size we can use. maybe .883????
I want the walls as thin as possible. Still allowing the dowel to go in without
cracking the cue.

I could work something out if we need to buy a bigger drill. I know it sounds
funny now, but i need the bore hole to be as big as humanly possible without
cracking the butt of cue when boring. Might take some trial and error....
So, using cheap but good blanks at first might be the way to go, i don't hate my money! :grin:
Click to expand...
OK, .758 for the forearm and .883 for the handle.
That way you can have .750 dowel in the forearm ( can be fatter at the bottom if you want like .875 by 2 inches deep ) then .875 core all the way down unless you want some E rings.
You could use radial laminated dowel from Dominiak too. Pick the best of the lot.
 
JoeyInCali said:
OK, .758 for the forearm and .883 for the handle.
That way you can have .750 dowel in the forearm ( can be fatter at the bottom if you want like .875 by 2 inches deep ) then .875 core all the way down unless you want some E rings.
You could use radial laminated dowel from Dominiak too. Pick the best of the lot.
Click to expand...



Ok that sounds fine to me. Can you do the work, if so, well go to a pm,
and talk about time/price, ect ect. Let me know, thxs
 
JoeyInCali said:
You could use radial laminated dowel from Dominiak too. Pick the best of the lot.
Click to expand...

Why? How is the weight? what kind of glue does he glue them with?
Does it sing, doe, rae, me, fa, la, ti, doe............
Or does it sing
F--------------udge!
 
Michael Webb said:
Why? How is the weight? what kind of glue does he glue them with?
Does it sing, doe, rae, me, fa, la, ti, doe............
Or does it sing
F--------------udge!
Click to expand...


I forgot to add, i wont be needing this lamanted dowel.....My dowel
after i work my magic, will make that look like a wet noodle! :D Just well seasoned maple is all i need in the dowels.

MR Webb.....You need to stop breathing that RI air! Or stop eating systems for dinner 5 nights a week! :D :D :D :D
O how i miss that late night roach coach downtown RI~! The one that looks like a classic airstream! Yum YUM!
 
Last edited:
Michael Webb said:
Why? How is the weight? what kind of glue does he glue them with?
Does it sing, doe, rae, me, fa, la, ti, doe............
Or does it sing
F--------------udge!
Click to expand...

"Only I didn't say fudge."
 
What you are asking for will probalby require tooling that nobody has.
Ideally, it sounds like you want a really long tapered hole cut in a 1-piece butt. It would probably cost more than anyone wants to spend to have a reamer made the proper size to do the job.
Even if the hole were not tapered, it would require an extremely long gun drill for the hole to be accurate. Most cuemakers have gundrills around 20", I think.
 
What about making the butt in two halves, cut lengthwise. While the two halves are still square stock, you can cut a half round groove into both of them using a router table and a round nose router bit. Then you would glue the two halves together and turn them as usual. The result would be a full through hole. You could have some type of lap joint along the length next to the half round in order to keep glue from getting into the hole.
 
swami4u said:
nevermind..not worth the head ache...thxs for
trying.....Its hard to communicate sometimes...
Click to expand...

Not a headache at all and it is to your benefit that I asked those questions, Especially the one about glue, the difference is whether the radially spliced shaft is firm or does it spring back and forth when you push on it like a Predator. The weight of them is also a key element whether your going to trash it or not.

Special note,
This is ask the cue maker, which means you could get 20 different answers, some may suit you and some may not.
 
Sounds like you need to buy your own equipment & put in the time & failure & emotion the rest of us did in order to learn how to build cues. We all have had & have our ideas & dreams. Most are crap, a few materialize into worthy ideas. But we paid our dues in blood-sweat-tears, thousands in machinery & materials, and tons of failure. I don't mean to be rude or insulting, so i'm sorry if it seems so. But what you are asking is borderline insulting to legitimate & accomplished cuemakers. Get your own equipment & do it yourself, then take any credit that's deserving & kudos to you for it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top