Curly Pyinma
- Thread starter opiesbro
- Start date
You really can't build a cue with wet wood.
Is it air dried or green? If it is green and wet you might have to wait up to 2 years or 1 year per inch of thickness.
If it is air dried, I would turn it round and drill a small hole all the way through it. Leave the wax on the ends. Let it sit a few months in a warm place where there is air movement and see if it moved. Check it with a moisture meter and look for 8% or less. You are still taking a chance. Coring does help but shrinking or swelling can pop the finish around rings, points, or joints.
That's why I don't buy wood that is not kiln dried. Even if I do, I let it sit around a few months to acclimate to the humidity in my shop.
Some CM's have wood for years before they will use it.
Kim
I do know better without a core
You are right Joey I do know better than to use wet wood without a core. I just built a cue that was a replacement for one that had not been sealed properly during the building process that warped in the forearm due to moisture I believe. The reason that I posted this is because I didn't know if the core would be strong enough to hold the sleeve made for the handle straight or not.
You are right Joey I do know better than to use wet wood without a core. I just built a cue that was a replacement for one that had not been sealed properly during the building process that warped in the forearm due to moisture I believe. The reason that I posted this is because I didn't know if the core would be strong enough to hold the sleeve made for the handle straight or not.
The core will probably not warp.
But, wet woods shrink when they dry.
What happens to the shoulders under the joint collar after that?
Inlays?
How about weight ?
Wet woods have no place in CUSTOM CUEMAKING.
It's for factories somewhere.
Wet wood is useless for anything more than walking sticks and Shaker chairs. Seal the end grain and get that wood into a kiln. Undried wood will shift, shrink and lose a lot of weight in the drying process.
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I just bought some wet wood. I know not to use it, and I have no problem letting it sit for years, but what if I wanted to get it kiln dried? Is there someplace I can send it and have it done? Its no biggie, because I've bought enough dry wood to keep my slow ass busy for a few years, but in case I needed a piece of tulipwood dried asap, how can I do it? I thought about popping it in the microwave with my burritos, but I don't wanna get and sauce on it, lol. (For those with no sense of humor, the preceding sentence was only a joke. Thank you.)
Joe
Joe
Allen
Once its down under 10% moisture content you can send it out and have it stabilized. I like Pyinma AKA Asian Satinwood stabilized, grain pops and it helps movement. I have some being done right now.... Heres some other pieces that were done already.
Once its down under 10% moisture content you can send it out and have it stabilized. I like Pyinma AKA Asian Satinwood stabilized, grain pops and it helps movement. I have some being done right now.... Heres some other pieces that were done already.
Allen
Once its down under 10% moisture content you can send it out and have it stabilized. I like Pyinma AKA Asian Satinwood stabilized, grain pops and it helps movement. I have some being done right now.... Heres some other pieces that were done already.
Is being stabalized the same as "Resuolute or Nesolite"? If not can you please PM me your source for having wood stabilized?
Thanks,
Dry wood
Of course, like several mentioned, all wood used in cues MUST BE DRY.
But, it must also be seasoned. Just because a piece is dry does not mean it will
not move. It needs to be seasoned to have all the movement taken care of.
Then, and only then, can should it be used in a cue. Seasoning, depending on the species can take from 6 months to 5 years (or more for snakewood).
Of course, like several mentioned, all wood used in cues MUST BE DRY.
But, it must also be seasoned. Just because a piece is dry does not mean it will
not move. It needs to be seasoned to have all the movement taken care of.
Then, and only then, can should it be used in a cue. Seasoning, depending on the species can take from 6 months to 5 years (or more for snakewood).
I am talking about acrylic stabilization where the wood is completely impregnated with a blend of clear or dyed resins under vacuum and pressure. There are several companies doing this sucessfully, WSSI in Iowa, K&G in Arizona, Woodlabs, etc etc.
I feel compelled to ask this, as seeing that you have a company name..."Big Al's Customs' Why ask this question in public? to me this means that you may not have an idea about woods and about aging them properly before starting a cue project. But to have a business name advertising custom cues would imply that you do.....I'm a bit confused, as the question you have asked is like cue building 101a........'don't use wet or 'not dry wood' for cues'. Buy Chris H's book. Coring is for stability of unstable woods, Burls, soft woods, severly spalted/etc or to control weight/balance. NOT to make up for poor planning of seasoning your wood supply properly and then taking on a job that will require something that you cannot supply.
I have noticed a hugh upsurge in new people here asking the most basic questions, but already have a business name started, but ask questions that most non-builders here know the answer to. Shouldn't one get the knowlege first, and then form a name and open a business??????
To me, reading these posts as a potential customer, I would run the other way. If my washing machine repair man is on a forum asking how to fix a leaky fill hose.....And so am I, as the customer, what does that show.......?
Just my view from the cheap seats...
And to think, that some here recently piled on a new poster because he asked " is this wrap work ok"? as a customer, but a 'BUILDER" comes on here with this type of question, and no one piles on him ?
Really?
Dave
making a cue with wet wood
if you want to show off your wood you should go hey check out this red wood slabe i scored on but its a little wet
sorry you really didnt think out your question very well before you posted we all do it from time to time. back to cool wood .
o ya this cue plays lights out too
mike ps i wish we had someone to teach photo shop 101
if you want to show off your wood you should go hey check out this red wood slabe i scored on but its a little wet
sorry you really didnt think out your question very well before you posted we all do it from time to time. back to cool wood .
o ya this cue plays lights out too
mike ps i wish we had someone to teach photo shop 101
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Thing is, there are many woods that cannot be kiln dried without degradation to the wood. Some woods can be kiln dried only when the planks are thin which is no use to us. I use kiln dried when possible.
Dick
I core all of my fore arms in the cues that I build. I have never cored wet wood however. Wood loses about 85% of it's moisture through end grain, only about 15% through the sides. Losing moisture to quickly is what causes checks and movement in wood. So, I will often bore out wetter wood so that more of the side wall of the billet is presented to the atmosphere so drying can be sped up but not so quickly as to cause checking or warpage. Once dried I then re-bore and install my core.
Dick
With the help of another person on here I found another supplier for this wood. It has been air dried for atleast 2 years according to the new supplier. I won't use it though until it is at the less than 8% mark.
Anyway I have a ton of time to wait since this cue is for myself and not a customer. I would never try a new process on a customers cue. As for my background I don't know a lot about woods and their behaviors since my expertise is all in plastics and injection molding. That's why I asked the question.
Thanks,
Ya know, I was thinking the same thing! I can understand asking about the finer details after you've kinda worked out some of the problems, but that question blew me away.