Cushions, Rails, The Final Posting of Postings

fdambi

Custom Order Cues
Silver Member
The Bull Associated With Cushions; The Post Of All Important Posts; Need King Cobra?

OK, I spent over an hour using the search option to get as much info as possible about the best cushions to have on a table for play, and none of the postings were specific enough on this website. There does not seem to be a standard anywhere on the internet about what constitutes true professional play when the speed of the cushions is mentioned.
I have played at many pool spots here in Arizona. A place called Metro has rails so fast on their Brunswicks that the balls jump when contact is made, the balls speed up and shoot too fast up and down the rails, they rebound at odd inconsistent angles, and they limit control of the cue ball because they're just absurd. Another place called Main Street has these rails on their Gandy tables that are not quite as fast, but are still just too damned fast. The balls pick up speed after making contact with the rails and are bounced at strange angles which creates inaccuracy when playing typical shape or when banking balls.
At both of the aforementioned places you can do a 5 rail kick shot relatively easy compared to other places. Now, there is a 3rd place called Six Shooters which has rails that seem to play precisely the way rails should. The balls dont pick up speed, they rebound at perfect angles, the cue doesn't jump when contacting the cushion, and a 5 railer isn't too easy, you have to put some real mustard on it to make it work. Now these tables play the same as the tables at another place called Colby's. I've talked to many good local players, a couple who compete in or have competed in pro tournaments and they have all noticed the same thing.
Now the question is how exactly are pro rails (cushions) supposed to play? Obviously each of the poolhalls with those rediculously fast cushions suck because most good players will not play under those conditions. The other two places with the accurate rails which play good are chalked full of seasoned players who never complain about those specific conditions because they play good. So how are rails supposed to play? Which play exactly the way pro rails are supposed to play? I just purchased an AMF which resembles the Gold Crown III. My table will likely have the K-66 size cushions, but I have no clue which brand to get because they all likely play different. No one so far on the site has gone into specifics about the speed of cushions and how fast too fast is. When I have examined video from pro tournaments which use Brunswick, Oldhausen, and Diamond Tables, I've noticed all three play about the same with regard to the speed of the balls off the rails. :confused: Is there a difference? A noticable difference? Which are the fastest or are too fast, which are the most consistent, which are supposed to be the "gold standard" for speed? I dont care about cost, I dont care about the reputation of the rails for how long they last before they break down because if I have to, I will replace the rails every 3 or 4 years, I dont care, as long as they play the way they should. Do I need a specific type of facing for the pockets, and do I need those pads behind the rails? how does that work?
Now I need someone to tell me what I need to get here. I will have the Simonis 860 cloth, the table is a 9 ft, the pockets will be double shimmed and not too big, I've got Aramith balls, so what type of rail do I need here?
I need specifics of why too, not amatuer rambling. Are there any experienced players or mechanics who know what I'm talking about here?:(
 
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fdambi said:
OK, I spent over an hour using the search option to get as much info as possible about the best cushions to have on a table for play, and none of the postings were specific enough on this website. There does not seem to be a standard anywhere on the internet about what constitutes true professional play when the speed of the cushions is mentioned.
I have played at many pool spots here in Arizona. A place called Metro has rails so fast on their Brunswicks that the balls jump when contact is made, the balls speed up and shoot too fast up and down the rails, they rebound at odd inconsistent angles, and they limit control of the cue ball because they're just absurd. Another place called Main Street has these rails on their Gandy tables that are not quite as fast, but are still just too damned fast. The balls pick up speed after making contact with the rails and are bounced at strange angles which creates inaccuracy when playing typical shape or when banking balls.
At both of the aforementioned places you can do a 5 rail kick shot relatively easy compared to other places. Now, there is a 3rd place called Six Shooters which has rails that seem to play precisely the way rails should. The balls dont pick up speed, they rebound at perfect angles, the cue doesn't jump when contacting the cushion, and a 5 railer isn't too easy, you have to put some real mustard on it to make it work. Now these tables play the same as the tables at another place called Colby's. I've talked to many good local players, a couple who compete in or have competed in pro tournaments and they have all noticed the same thing.
Now the question is how exactly are pro rails (cushions) supposed to play? Obviously each of the poolhalls with those rediculously fast cushions suck because most good players will not play under those conditions. The other two places with the accurate rails which play good are chalked full of seasoned players who never complain about those specific conditions because they play good. So how are rails supposed to play? Which play exactly the way pro rails are supposed to play? I just purchased an AMF which resembles the Gold Crown III. My table will likely have the K-66 size cushions, but I have no clue which brand to get because they all likely play different. No one so far on the site has gone into specifics about the speed of cushions and how fast too fast is. When I have examined video from pro tournaments which use Brunswick, Oldhausen, and Diamond Tables, I've noticed all three play about the same with regard to the speed of the balls off the rails. :confused: Is there a difference? A noticable difference? Which are the fastest or are too fast, which are the most consistent, which are supposed to be the "gold standard" for speed? I dont care about cost, I dont care about the reputation of the rails for how long they last before they break down because if I have to, I will replace the rails every 3 or 4 years, I dont care, as long as they play the way they should. Do I need a specific type of facing for the pockets, and do I need those pads behind the rails? how does that work?
Now I need someone to tell me what I need to get here. I will have the Simonis 860 cloth, the table is a 9 ft, the pockets will be double shimmed and not too big, I've got Aramith balls, so what type of rail do I need here?
I need specifics of why too, not amatuer rambling. Are there any experienced players or mechanics who know what I'm talking about here?:(
Gandy rails play like the rubber is too low causing a quicker rebound with less time for english to take off the rail. With newer cloth they work, when it's worn and tight and a little sticky they can bounce the balls in the air too easily. Brunswicks play as if they are higher, the bounce is a little slower and more consistent at different angles and with different english. The Diamonds seem to be maybe a little slower still but also very, very consistent.

On tv they all have new cloth, slowing the rails and speeding up the tables. I'd leave the rails on it if you weren't shimming them. With a good tight covering job they would probably be fine. They don't really wear out. You should be able to see plainly where the cloth is stretching tight above each staple along the rail with consistent tightness. And it should stay that way, else it's not tight enough.

I'm not a table mechanic but have run an old room and played professionally and it seems to me that height might be more of a varible than different rubber of the same profile. I don't think you can change the height so I don't think you'll see much difference between the new rails and the old that's not caused by recovering with new cloth.

unknownpro
 
Rails are the outer edge of the table that people get yelled at for putting their butts there. You are asking about cushions... not rails.

If you have the cushions cut and fit by an expert you will not need and do not want double facings. Double facing material causes an unnatural reaction when struck by a ball. If the cushions are cut properly then small pockets can be constructed.

I think you should contact realkingcobra who is a poster here. I'm just a guy that had a Brunswick 9 ft table that I had double shimmed, against the advice of everybody I asked, and who now has done it right and have a Diamond Pro. Diamond sent some guys to the house to install new cushioins a couple years but and I believe it now has Artemus cushions.

Realkingcobra KNOWS what he's doing. Look up his name in the members list and then check out his post and threads. He travels all over the country, from what I've read, and you might get lucky and be able to have him do your table.

4 1/2" pockets on the corners are small enough and think twice about double shimmed pockets... they play "funny". Or at least this was my experience.
 
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RE: to earlier post by Scaramouche and his research

I read that post prior to the question I posed because you are not supporting your claim with enough reason. It doesn't seem anyone has ever really tested or compared cushions because no one is giving me any info that differentiates one from the other. Nor has anyone specifically gone into the speed and whether there is a standard for it.
 
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First of all, I have never played in Arizona. I know the air is extremely dry. If the pool rooms you played in have humidifiers to "condition" the air quality, this could cause the rails to play fast and short, and the cloth to play slow because the rubber is actually abrorbing the moisture, which causes exactly what you are describing.

As for your Table, it is extremely important you know what profile your cushions are. K-55 or k-66. Artemis rubber is the top of the line most consistant cushion. The artemis "Intercontinental 55" is the rubber to replace the k-55 super speeds on a gold crown. The k-66 on a gold crown doesn't play right IMHO because the rail height is too high.

Whwn it comes time to replace my cushions on my table it will be without a doubt artemis rubber, and I am pretty anal about playing conditions, thats my proof as to why they are the best.

Hope this helps.
 
Standards? You want standards??

There aren't even "standards" for the size of a pool table. There are no "standards" for the size of pockets. There are no "standards" for types of pockets. There are no "standards" for cushion shapes or materials.

It's subjective. Some like this. Some like that. You try'm and you either like or don't like'm. If you don't have the experience to know what you like and don't have the time or resources to spend trying them all then you ask those who do have knowledge or experience or both.

When those people spend their time trying to help you it's wise to not spit in their face by sending smart aleck pm's in response. I didn't have to try to answer your questions but I tried to be helpful. But that's not enough for you. You want what you want and you want it now and your're going to scream until you get it.

Beat it kid... ya bother me.
 
Information on cushions

You might try looking at some of the articles written by Pat Sheehan. You can find them at http://www.onthebreaknews.com/index.html in the archives of articles written by Mr. Sheehan.

He is called the "Man of the Cloth" and has been doing pool tables for approximately the last 50 years in the state of Washington and in the northwest part of the US. According to him, many cushions available have too much 'dirt', not clay, in them. He goes so far as to explain the correct 'specific gravity' which cushions should have, and what percentages of rubber and clay should be in a cushion to make it play correctly.

I was impressed with his knowledge, and after talking by phone with him, sent my rails to him to have them redone. I have a 9 foot, Brunswick Anniversary table which I am very proud of. But I wanted good cushions and 4 1/2" pro pockets. My table had Brunswick speed rails and 5" pockets. He took the Brunswick speed cushions off my table, added wood shims to lengthen the rails for 4 1/2" pockets, so double shimming was not necessary, put on cushions with the correct specific gravity and resiliency, and clothed them with Simonis 860, which my table already had.

My table now plays amazing, with true banking angles, and to me, perfect speed. Many of the top players in my area of east texas come to my house to play on this table and say it plays better than any other table around.

You might be able to order cushions from Mr. Sheehan, or get information on where he gets his cushions. He's a very nice guy. A caveat: Mr. Sheehan is in his 70's, and still has contracts for installing cloth. If you send him your rails, it might take some time to get them back.
 
AMF cusihons

The cushions on your AMF will be K66 profile. I use the Artemis and Championship Tour Edition rubber. I am also trying out MBS rubber, I know people who only use this and really like the way it plays so I am going to check it out. Artemis is going to play faster than the Championship, I have done a lot of tables with Championship and like the way it plays. Some people think it plays a little slow. I like a little slower table over one that plays bouncy. I set up 9 AMF tables in Victorville with Championship rubber and they play good. Victorville will have some of the same weather that you have in Arizona. The Artemis rubber is mad in Germany, the Germans make some of the best rubber in the world. Also any quality rubber should last you many years of playing.

As far as the tables playing funny out there, if the guy who recovers the tables does not know what he is doing the tables will play funny. I have come across a lot of Gold Crown 4's that play really bouncy because they where coverd bad. When I got done with them they played completly differnt. Also the rubber will have a lot to do with it. Installing the wrong profile on a table will really change the way it plays or if the rails are high or low. If the guy installs the rubber wrong it could also make it play funny.

Now to tighten your table up right you should have the subrail extended and do it with out extra facings. Stacking facings on top of each other to tighten up a pocket will just make your table play bad.

I am going to Arizona soon to work on a few tables, let me know if I can help you.

Please feal free to pm me if you have any more questions.

Steve
 
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Tablemechanic said:
Installing the wrong profile on a table will really change the way it plays or if the rails are high or low. If the guy installs the rubber wrong it could also make it play funny.

Steve

Hi, I wonder if you (or anyone who knows) can elaborate on how to define "rail profile" in terms of angle and so forth. How can one know the profile if it isn't listed somewhere?

thanks,
 
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