Is there any real difference in playability of a K-66 and a K-55 cushion profile. If all things are equal, let's say Artimis cushions and everything else equal, does one profile play better then the other? Thanks for any info that you's have.
Cushions:
- Thread starter dstone120647
- Start date
If you look here, you might find some sort of explanation
http://www.pooltablefeltcloth.com/Cushions-Supplies/Championship/Cushions-Mounting-Guide/index.shtm
http://www.pooltablefeltcloth.com/Cushions-Supplies/Championship/Cushions-Mounting-Guide/index.shtm
This far from a scientific fact or comparison, but I like the way the k55 cushions play better than the k66. It is hard to say with out going into the whole make up of the rails on the different tables, and I am not sure how to compare them with out it. On the calibrated K66 tables I have seen, it still leaves something to be desired as compared to a properly setup and calibrated K55 table.
I guess the test would be to properly convert a set of Gold Crown rails to k66 and put it up against a calibrated GC with K55 and see what the out come would be.
Just my 2 cents.
I guess the test would be to properly convert a set of Gold Crown rails to k66 and put it up against a calibrated GC with K55 and see what the out come would be.
Just my 2 cents.
2 thoughts -
There's not much discernible difference in the 2 profiles. There are differences between brands.
You replace cushions based on the profile the table calls for. There's no choice.
rackcracker
Registered
Nevermind, The link Travis posted is what I was looking for.
I am very intrested in this topic as well. My current table is an older cheaper brunswick with century U56 cushions, no subrails, glued straight to the partical board. This profile inherntly tends to trap the ball slighly, making it slide a few inchs even with proper nose height. I have been kicking around the idea of building a table using the slate I have, this evolved into just building from the slate up, my legs and frame are ok. In all the reading I have done the subrail seems to be the dreaded part, That don't scare me, I can use a table saw fairly well. I have even found blueprint type drawings of subrail profiles. I believe however all the subrails I have found so far are for k66 cushions. My studies have also revealed that 2 of the most popular tables use the k55 profile and the black diamond cushions seem well liked, and are cheaper than the artemis. Problem is I don't have demensions for k55 subrails. Can anyone point me or tell me the angle for rail liners for k55?
I am very intrested in this topic as well. My current table is an older cheaper brunswick with century U56 cushions, no subrails, glued straight to the partical board. This profile inherntly tends to trap the ball slighly, making it slide a few inchs even with proper nose height. I have been kicking around the idea of building a table using the slate I have, this evolved into just building from the slate up, my legs and frame are ok. In all the reading I have done the subrail seems to be the dreaded part, That don't scare me, I can use a table saw fairly well. I have even found blueprint type drawings of subrail profiles. I believe however all the subrails I have found so far are for k66 cushions. My studies have also revealed that 2 of the most popular tables use the k55 profile and the black diamond cushions seem well liked, and are cheaper than the artemis. Problem is I don't have demensions for k55 subrails. Can anyone point me or tell me the angle for rail liners for k55?
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Ken has this info on his site based on the subrail thickness - http://www.pooltablefeltcloth.com/Cushions-Supplies/Championship/Cushions-Mounting-Guide/index.shtm
Click on the K55 rail core dimension links for 1 3/4" and 1 5/8"
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