nit pick, please
classiccues said:
Jim,
Thanks.. but I am with Chris here. The inside veneers are extremely tough and almost impossible to keep in line. The only cues that are very close to having perfectly aligned interior veneers are the triple milled and recut style points. Even those are tough.
But I agree with you, its your money and if you don't like something, don't buy it. If you think a cue is suspect best thing to do is pass on it and move on.
Joe
Ok guys,I must disagree with you Joe and also Chris on inter-points being impossible. Joe, I assume your making that assumption and maybe you have never built a cue.
Judging from your post, you must be saying that most, if not all your cuemakers can not get there points even. I'll bet you whatever, I could teach you in less than a day, and the points would be lined up, inside as well as outside. Tripple milled, please.......not nessesary if you know your stuff....
I had trouble when I first started, later, I learned how.[ many screw ups later I finaly had it down patt]...It's tough, but not as bad as most think.
If any qualified cuemaker knows his stuff, the outer-points line up as well as the inter-points, and it's not to tough to do.
It's all in the "SET UP" from turning the tapered front, to cutting the vee's, and holding things square while turn cutting, and finaly the finish cut. I will not send a cue out that's not within a pencile width for line up. If it can't be adjusted and look great, I, scrap it and build another one. Years back, I didn't scrap them. [Sure wish I had those not so even, pointed cues, back].
Most guys move the rear-end of the front, to square up the points at the nose end. This is wrong, and won't work. Move the nose a little and take a fine and thin cut. If it's still lined up, your ok, if not make your adjustments, try again, if not in alignment, scrap it, and start over.
However, by moving either end, can cause you big problems.You can have the rear end of the veneer points looking bad. What i'm saying, is the wood stock "BETWEEN" the veneers is off. One side will be say, .100 thds. the other will be .150 or better. This looks bad. Meaning that the cue was turn-cut "OFF CENTER"....All the points should be the same. The top of the points, the inter-points, the width of the expossed wood between the points at the top of the wrap area should be the same width also.
If you have the same amount of material at the cross section of the back end of the front, [same thickness on all 4 sides], and you maintain it on center, then make sure your glue is not to thick in one vee or to thin in another, and your veneers are of the same thickness, and your inter- part, is the same, it will turn cut perfectly.
There's a lot of "IF's" here but again, "IF" you do it right and hold everthing close, you should have no problem, maintaining inter or outer points even.
NOTE!, Just using to much glue in one cavity will cause that veneer and inter part to be off, [shorter] more than the others. Turn cutting on a taper, will cause you all kinds of problems, if your not carfull.Turn cut the front and glue up the points the same day will help. Attach the handle and turn cut, paint, wrap, compound and collect the cash...........
Would be happy to teach either of you guys.
blud
