Deflection question, explain how a stiffer CF shaft has less deflection.

If the cue ball comes off the tip in a millisecond, or so, where does the "whippiness" of the shaft come into play?

Hasn't the contact between the tip and the cue ball been broken before the shaft begins to whip?
Ever seen those super slo-mo videos? The shaft gets out of the way instantly with lo-def shaft. That's how they work, shaft deflects, cueball doesn't. Well, it still squirts but less of it.
 
If the cue ball comes off the tip in a millisecond, or so, where does the "whippiness" of the shaft come into play?

Hasn't the contact between the tip and the cue ball been broken before the shaft begins to whip?
I suppose you could say the same for the ball. My guess is there is a finite amount of force when they hit, it gets divided, if the cue eats more because it's wippy the ball will take less and go off line less, But that's a guess and I'm not a phd.
 
If the cue ball comes off the tip in a millisecond, or so, where does the "whippiness" of the shaft come into play?

Hasn't the contact between the tip and the cue ball been broken before the shaft begins to whip?
Jumping in for no good reason. It occurs to me people may hit closer to center with a whippy shaft. Wouldn't this provide a longer contact window? Perhaps by millions of nano temporal increments.
 
Jumping in for no good reason. It occurs to me people may hit closer to center with a whippy shaft. Wouldn't this provide a longer contact window? Perhaps by millions of nano temporal increments.
No. Not what happens. Lo-d shafts are not 'whippy', its just the last 6-8" that has reduced mass thus lower deflect. WTF is a nano temporal increment? You have to go look this shit up? ;)
 
however all said less weight up front means less deflection. that's a given.

but so called total deflection/(deviation) of the cue ball, is not 100 percent from the weight of the front of the shaft.
it is easily controlled by yourself by where your aim, and how you hit the cue ball and its speed. that comes with table time.

sure if you have to hit a shot with a certain speed and same amount of spin with a level in line cue no matter what,
then a lighter front cue will deflect less.

certainly many are helped by cf shafts. and some are not. but for me i think learning on traditional wood shafts first is best as you get more aspects of the control of the cue ball. then change over and see if you are better off for it or not.

if hitting lots of long shots hard with lots of english then a cf shaft has to help especially if you are not good at adjusting your aiming points accordingly.
 
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however all said less weight up front means less deflection. that's a given.

but so called total deflection/(deviation) of the cue ball, is not 100 percent from the weight of the front of the shaft.
it is easily controlled by yourself by where your aim, and how you hit the cue ball and its speed. that comes with table time.

sure if you have to hit a shot with a certain speed and same amount of spin with a level in line cue no matter what,
then a lighter front cue will deflect less.
So I think there's a lot of confusion about the benefits of low deflection technology and in what ways it benefits you.

The most common misconception I think is that it becomes easier to adjust for side spin. Nope, not true. It's not easier. Learning how BHE and FHE works is the best way to compensate for squirt and it's just as easy with a high deflection shaft as a low deflection shaft.

The true benefit comes with the consistency because of the minimized squirt/CB deflection. Any time you're having to adjust less for something, the consistency will be higher.

Another misconception is that you don't have to adjust, you just aim like you're trying to make the ball. It can seem like this is the case but it's not. The natural pivot point is pushed back (in some cases, WAY back) but it's still there.

One thing you'll notice if you compare modern players to players from the past is where they bridge and where they hold the cue.

Traditionally it was taught to bridge 8-10 inches away from making cb contact. I REALLY think that this was because that is where a standard maple shaft's natural pivot point lies. I don't know that they were aware of it, but bridging at the shaft's natural pivot point allows for stroke flaws and deviations to really not affect making the shot as much (it does still affect the expected position though). That's one reason why many players can make shots but are always confused that the cb doesn't end up where they expect. It's due to stroke flaws that they aren't aware of or haven't addressed but since they bridge where they're supposed, they still make the shot.

Modern players bridge 14-16 inches, typically, and wouldn't you know it, that's where the natural pivot point on modern ld tech tends to be, and they grip farther back on the butt which allows for the pushed back bridge while still maintaining close to 90 degrees of elbow bend at poc.
 
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very good post jaden.

it still is a personal thing.
as proof the old time players who knew little or cared about deflection just adjusted to the shots naturally for playing enough. and ran hundreds of balls comparable to the newest trend of cf shafts and knowledge of deflection the present players run about the same amount. and about the same amount of racks of nine ball and one pocket. within reason of course without picking out exceptions.

technology does help though. but those that rely on it too much usually lose out somewhere.
im old. never was a top player, or even really that good and didn't care about improving my speed. but can still beat in most action pool rooms all but the best maybe 3 or 4 that hang there with a 50 year old 13 mm heavy shaft.
 
It is all personal, even with squirts, it is helpful to get around a blocked OB. Woods have the truest feedbacks and feels. They are the most predictable vs LD
 
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