Diamond Professional Delivery Time

Yep, if you hit a ball with speed into a pocket, it will leave a black mark.
I think it's from that black rubber "skirt" inside the back of the pocket. I'm used to Pro-Ams since that's what the pool halls have, but is it the same on the Professionals (with the drop pockets)?

The older Pro-Ams definitely mark the balls up more than the newer ones though.
 
I think it's from that black rubber "skirt" inside the back of the pocket. I'm used to Pro-Ams since that's what the pool halls have, but is it the same on the Professionals (with the drop pockets)?

The older Pro-Ams definitely mark the balls up more than the newer ones though.
It's the leather. I used mink oil on mine, applying about every 2 weeks for 2 months or so and it stopped leaving black marks.
 
Time to tear down a wall and move into the apartment! 2 tables def won't fit as-is. 21' x 19' interior walls shown, 58" cue, no backswing.


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Ok, so, I am somewhat confused now.

What exactly kind of wood does Diamond make their tables with nowadays?

Is it a somewhat synthetic type wood? Is it hard rubber? Is it an actual wood?

And I assume there are various colors/stains that are available? Such as cherry, oak, black, etc, etc.
 
The skirts of the tables and the legs are made of furniture grade plywood with an oak hardwood veneer on the face. The top of the rail (only) is a synthetic material with a phenolic (or similar) impregnated mixture. This formula has changed over the years depending on which company was supplying the rail top. It is super hard, won't ding at all. Harder than the Formica on the GC's. The oak veneer plywood can be painted black (possibly other solid colors), or stained in several choices. The oak is very porous and shows the cathedral grain, even when painted black.

I "think" you can also get maple veneer plywood, which is a closed pore wood, and the finish will be much smoother, even if solid paint color. 99% of the tables you see in the wild will be oak veneer. Its the standard.

That is for the Pro-Am and Professional.

You can also get the rail tops in solid wood, with choices of cherry, oak, maple, etc, and either have them stained or painted. This might look prettier, but it will ding when balls hit it.

Edit to add: in the 90's and 00's, the "common" style was the oak-veneer plywood legs/skirts stained in a reddish/brownish tone, and the dymondwood top rails to match. As shown in post $58.

Today, and for the about the past 5 years, the "common" style is oak-veneer plywood painted (not stained) flat black, with black synthetic rail tops. Any current tournament you see will be like this.

Black rail tops were not available in the Dymondwood days. It was a limitation of the process.
 
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The skirts of the tables and the legs are made of furniture grade plywood with an oak hardwood veneer on the face. The top of the rail (only) is a synthetic material with a phenolic (or similar) impregnated mixture. This formula has changed over the years depending on which company was supplying the rail top. It is super hard, won't ding at all. Harder than the Formica on the GC's. The oak veneer plywood can be painted black (possibly other solid colors), or stained in several choices. The oak is very porous and shows the cathedral grain, even when painted black.

I "think" you can also get maple veneer plywood, which is a closed pore wood, and the finish will be much smoother, even if solid paint color. 99% of the tables you see in the wild will be oak veneer. Its the standard.

That is for the Pro-Am and Professional.

You can also get the rail tops in solid wood, with choices of cherry, oak, maple, etc, and either have them stained or painted. This might look prettier, but it will ding when balls hit it.

Edit to add: in the 90's and 00's, the "common" style was the oak-veneer plywood legs/skirts stained in a reddish/brownish tone, and the dymondwood top rails to match. As shown in post $58.

Today, and for the about the past 5 years, the "common" style is oak-veneer plywood painted (not stained) flat black, with black synthetic rail tops. Any current tournament you see will be like this.

Black rail tops were not available in the Dymondwood days. It was a limitation of the process.
Well if anyone is banging balls on my rails, they're leaving without theirs...
 
It's the leather. I used mink oil on mine, applying about every 2 weeks for 2 months or so and it stopped leaving black marks.
Yup.. this. I clean my pockets every 6 months with black shoe leather and then cover them in mink oil. Rarely do I get a mark on a ball anymore
 
I somehow have gotten the impression that if I go with Black in this Diamond Professional the delivery time will be a lot shorter.

Am I correct or am I out in left field?

r/DCP
 
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