I know, right? I think pool halls should institute a $5 penalty every time someone knocks the cue ball off of the table. Seems to always happen to the same people during leagues. Put that money in a break and run pot.
Diamond Professional (IT'S FINALLY HERE!!!)
- Thread starter sudocrushms
- Start date
sudocrushms
Well-known member
It is, but i don't want the nut-buster corners.
Not according to my wife
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Beautiful! All that glass scares me though!Broke dry with no look most of the first day, so i guess i need to dumpster it and buy an Arc...
Ok, joke's out of the way: Holy expletives this thing is beautiful.
So grateful to Tim at Tables Plus MN and Jerry at CR's for making this happen, it was SO worth the wait.
9' Diamond Professional, Black Oak, Simonis 860 in Shark Gray, 4-1/8" Corners, 4-5/8" sides, no engraved logos.
View attachment 917463View attachment 917464
sudocrushms
Well-known member
Got some good video today dialing in my break (had to make opposite adjustments from what I usually do). GoPro died right after my first 9b break, so missed that progression.Please video your breaking. Just want to see just how full of shit protege really is.
The vid is coming though.
Badpenguin
Well-known member
With me it is Murphy's Law. I'd psych myself out thinking "don't scoop the cue ball, don't scoop the cue ball", lol.
It is rare for me also, but every once in a while doing drills that involve draw or whatnot it can happen. During breaks it is rare but can happen also.
sudocrushms
Well-known member
I had the cover *months* before the table arrived.
Also the blinds are on timers. Close early afternoon and open at sunset (west-facing).
I've thought of everything, gents.
Gorgeous table and a video setup?!? As if we weren't all jealous enough...Got some good video today dialing in my break (had to make opposite adjustments from what I usually do). GoPro died right after my first 9b break, so missed that progression.
The vid is coming though.
You probably know this, but you can hook the gopro up to an external power source and remote control it with your phone via the gopro app. That's what I do when I'm recording pool. I get easily 9-10 hours of potential recording time with a small external battery clipped with the gopro to a lamp at the pool hall.
sudocrushms
Well-known member
Yup, that is exactly what i'm doing. The camera is plugged into a switched outlet with the table light.
Been running into issues with the cameras overheating, so i've got a USB fan and stick-on heat sinks on the way.
BilliardHome
New member
That's a sweet setup! Diamond Professionals are built solid, and Simonis 860 is a workhorse cloth. Since you're asking about light height, you'll want the bottom of the fixture 30-36 inches above the playing surface, depending on your ceiling and how the light spreads. Too high and you lose brightness on the corners; too low and you get glare and shadows. A fuller guide here: https://billiardhome.com/blog/pool-table-light-height. Most pros use a 4-lamp or 6-lamp pendant centered over the table. Congratulations on the table hitting your door.
sudocrushms
Well-known member
I hung the light about 2 months before the table showed up. I did 50% of the recommended range from Perimeter.
I may raise it up, but I'll wait until fall for that.
I put my qty 2 LED 2x4 panel lights flush to my 8' ceiling above my GC4, against all the advice of xyz height from the slate. I had zero regrets. It lit the table as good or better than any pool hall I've ever been to. Zero fixtures to be in the way of the stick or my head. Zero fixtures to be hanging down and blocking the view (table was in my living room).
I think those height recommendations we still see quoted from sales people like the post that resurrected this thread are obsolete with the LED panels. Maybe in the 3 shade incadecent light days they were ok. Those heights are regurgitated recommendations over decades. I doubt anyone today has actually hung a modern light at many heights and compared them to form new guidelines.
I think those height recommendations we still see quoted from sales people like the post that resurrected this thread are obsolete with the LED panels. Maybe in the 3 shade incadecent light days they were ok. Those heights are regurgitated recommendations over decades. I doubt anyone today has actually hung a modern light at many heights and compared them to form new guidelines.
What do you have above your light on the ceiling? What is it and what's its function?
The rules/equipment specs have a requirement: the light intensity at all places on the playing surface should be at least 520 lux, which is 520 lumens per square meter. I got a lux meter on Amazon -- about $30. The local room is 160 lux at the end rails, and that's definitely not enough.
You're part of the rules. Those specs are all antiquated. There are typos all over the pocket sizes. For decades the pockets in the rules didn't reflect competition tables. I wouldn't trust anything in the rules for the light as far as I could throw a Gold Crown 4 table light.
Now, if a light company today hung their light at 6" increments over a wide range above the slate, and we had a subjective and objective measurement of how it lit the table, how it bothered or did not bother players eyes, how it bothered or did not bothered spectators eyes, we'd have something worth a damn.
Love that artwork with Prince.
sudocrushms
Well-known member
They're acoustic panels. The living room and kitchen are all one space with hard floors and flat surfaces. The echo when i first moved in was BRUTAL. I have 4 more to hang, just need to decide where.
Thanks. These are prints of a friend's paintings. His sister commissioned it and has the originals, so unfortunately i've never seen them. I love how he uses blocks of bright color.
I may raise it up 12", that would put it level with the ducts and i think it would look a little better. I don't think it will actually change the lighting of the table though. Next is curtains over the windows at the foot of the table (west facing). I was trying to avoid it, but i get light interference around 4-6pm in the summer. Won't be an issue in the winter, but i think i need to do something.
I haven't been involved with the equipment specs, but you're right -- the specs need work.
Here is a previous thread about lighting levels and temperature
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