Did I forget what "Sneaky Pete" meant

mattiefingaz

mattiefingaz

Professional Photographer
Silver Member
Good day all....this is probably more a rant than anything else...

I've literally, without question, been out of the game for 19 years....I'm REALLY glad to be back though.

When I last revolved my life around this game a "Sneaky Pete" was a cue that replicated the look of a bar cue, but was of a quality well beyond those of house cues. "Sneaky" to me was a way of playing with a high quality cue that resembled one off the wall of your local room and not being noticed as a "player".

Now that I'm back I see TONS of cue's being represented as Sneaky Pete's that have joint work done....some with intricate veneers around the points....where has the "sneaky" gone?

Don't ge me wrong...the folks making these cues are GREAT at what they do and their cues look great....BUT, there's nothing sneaky about them.

Thanks for allowing me to vent a bit...
 
Well, since no body falls for that sneaky pete hustling trick anymore I don't see any problems with dressing it up a bit...
I still love the classic simple real Sneaky Pete but I also like the fancy ones as well.
For me, it just a cue but with a full splice construction, nothing sneaky about it anymore and if you like the feel and hit of that type of construction than a well made SP, fancy or not, will be a great cue.

skor <--- loves his "not so sneaky pete"

Sugartree_001.jpg
 
mattiefingaz said:
Good day all....this is probably more a rant than anything else...

I've literally, without question, been out of the game for 19 years....I'm REALLY glad to be back though.

When I last revolved my life around this game a "Sneaky Pete" was a cue that replicated the look of a bar cue, but was of a quality well beyond those of house cues. "Sneaky" to me was a way of playing with a high quality cue that resembled one off the wall of your local room and not being noticed as a "player".

Now that I'm back I see TONS of cue's being represented as Sneaky Pete's that have joint work done....some with intricate veneers around the points....where has the "sneaky" gone?

Don't ge me wrong...the folks making these cues are GREAT at what they do and their cues look great....BUT, there's nothing sneaky about them.

Thanks for allowing me to vent a bit...
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The classic Sneaky Pete's still exist - for many years, Tim Scruggs made a classic one that was very popular.

"Sneaky Pete" today widely refers to a style of converted cue or a 4 prong blank, but as far as I know it's still based on a full splice bar cue blank (4 points, no veneers). While you were gone the word "conversion" became popular - meaning converting a one piece house cue into a two piece custom cue.

A joint that is just bare wood and a screw has little protection from splitting or other damage, so cue makers wanted to improve upon this and added joint collars. Once the joints were added, other embellishments followed. Some have wraps and all have buttcaps or Hoppe style butts, ring work and so forth, but the basis is still a basic full splice bar cue conversion or blank.

Here's some of the best ones around - Bob Frey - and not a classic style in the group:

http://www.cuesnthings.com/cues/sneakypete/

Chris
 
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A thought...

Alot of truths said but as for non veneer cues to not be sneaky petes? What about old titlists with no collar? I'm sure you would have to consider that the same even tho its dated to an older generation.

Grey Ghost
 
greyghost said:
Alot of truths said but as for non veneer cues to not be sneaky petes? What about old titlists with no collar? I'm sure you would have to consider that the same even tho its dated to an older generation.

Grey Ghost
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The cue guys usually refer to 2 piece Titlists as "conversions" not sneaky pete's, although I must admit, a 2 piece titlist with a wood joint would be a very sneaky cue!

By the way, I love Titlists and old 26 1/2 Brunswicks, not only the way they look, but the way they play. I have some cues that are 80 -90 years old in perfect condition - and I let my friends play with them and they can't believe the quality of the cues.

Chris
 
mattiefingaz said:
Good day all....this is probably more a rant than anything else...

I've literally, without question, been out of the game for 19 years....I'm REALLY glad to be back though.

When I last revolved my life around this game a "Sneaky Pete" was a cue that replicated the look of a bar cue, but was of a quality well beyond those of house cues. "Sneaky" to me was a way of playing with a high quality cue that resembled one off the wall of your local room and not being noticed as a "player".

Now that I'm back I see TONS of cue's being represented as Sneaky Pete's that have joint work done....some with intricate veneers around the points....where has the "sneaky" gone?

Don't ge me wrong...the folks making these cues are GREAT at what they do and their cues look great....BUT, there's nothing sneaky about them.

Thanks for allowing me to vent a bit...
Click to expand...

Nothing is wrong with your memory. There are alot of cues being called sneaky , but they are not.
The cues would only qualify to be sneaky petes if the fancy looking cues were indistinguishable from the other fancy looking cues on the bar cue rack. Some how, I don't think you will find places with that style of cue.
The test of a true sneaky is placing one on the rack, and it looks just like another cue on the rack.
Neil
 
I'd like to see the use of the term 'Fancy Pete' to describe such a cue as is in question. It would designate the difference and eliminate confusion.
You're certainly not going to eliminate the design; just call it what it is.
 
Was anyone ever really fooled by a sneaky pete ?

If you knew anything about the game , you could spot them from across the room not to mention at the same table and if you couldn't then it didn't matter what the guy was using. :)
 
Sneakies

Other than the natural evolution of the chopped up bar cue and full spliced blanks being used to build "fancy" sneakies, I also think they are a way for players to obtain a cue from a good custom cue builder without spending a lot.
They're not being sold as "hustlers"...JMO
 
skor said:
Well, since no body falls for that sneaky pete hustling trick anymore I don't see any problems with dressing it up a bit...
I still love the classic simple real Sneaky Pete but I also like the fancy ones as well.
For me, it just a cue but with a full splice construction, nothing sneaky about it anymore and if you like the feel and hit of that type of construction than a well made SP, fancy or not, will be a great cue.

skor <--- loves his "not so sneaky pete"

Sugartree_001.jpg
Click to expand...

Holy moly. That cue is gorgeous. I play with a very similiar looking Blackcreek. Mine is purple heart.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if dealers pass off stickered or merry widow cues (with sharpie points) as sneaky petes. Black Beret was once reserved only for members of the US Army Rangers. Now everyone in the US Army and reserve is entitled to wear this iconic head cover. Perhaps unembellished sneaky petes should now be referred to as True Hustler's cues (TM pending :-).

I'm a fan of the Sneaky Pete, I have yet come across one where you can't see the joint and easily mistaken for a house cue.
 
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IMHO it has come full circle. When I was a kid a real fancy Cue was the sign of a Pool Hustler. A Plan Jane Cue wasn't looked upon too bad. Today they are some kind of Bragging right for the occasional player as to who has the wildness looking Cue stick. I am more concerned with the hit than the looks of a Cue. But I must admit to keep up with the Jones in my League I when with big suit case and multiply sticks. However one of the best hitting sticks I own is a Sneaky Pete and I own 4 wood to wood Sneaky Pete's.
 
A local cuemaker in my hometown took a J&J sneaky pete and "REWORKED" it.

I thought it was a great project for him and recommend it for all new cuemakers as he used it to test ferrelles, tips, tapers, weights, pins, etc.

When all was said and done, it played FABULOUS. He kept all the J&J labels and he played great with it. Everyone that hit balls with it remarked how great it hit and then they looked at ordering a J&J cue....:rolleyes:

Ken
 
The true sneaky pete isn't gone, but it has evolved.

In recently years, cue makers have discovered what a terrific 'blank canvas' that a full splice constructed cue can offer...with regards to the wrapless variety. With regards to to the non-veneered full splice, Keith Josey immediately comes to mind....beautiful cues.

Until a few years ago, there were only a small handful of makers who would/could build a full spliced cue...with or without veneers. In the last couple of years, that number, along with the popularity, has grown.

As to the ol sneaky pete...it's days are sadly numbered, as most players are aware of, if not own at least one. They're not foolin' anyone anymore, so what is the real point of building a cue with a less durable joint? I certainly would not spend a lot of time breaking with one, as Chris previously pointed out, you are risking damage to the joint area and/or shaft...or at the very least, a bent pin.

Lisa ====> LOVES her full splices!
 
ridewiththewind said:
As to the ol sneaky pete...it's days are sadly numbered, as most players are aware of, if not own at least one. They're not foolin' anyone anymore, so what is the real point of building a cue with a less durable joint? I certainly would not spend a lot of time breaking with one, as Chris previously pointed out, you are risking damage to the joint area and/or shaft...or at the very least, a bent pin.

Lisa ====> LOVES her full splices!
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Lisa, I don't want to argue, but I've been breaking with my Dufferin Phantom for many years without a problem. Over the last few years I've been buying a skeaky every year, and have alternated a Schmelke cocobolo sneaky with a straight taper as my break cue, again no problem. While I can see where a collared joint would be stronger, with my wimpy break the true SP wodd-to-wood joint works fine.

BTW, my intent is not to fool anyone but to collect a set of "house cues" with a variety of nice woods. So far there is a rosewood, a coco/BEM, tulipwood/curly, and recently a redheart. Next will be an ebony from either Bob Frey or Mark Bear, then a bacote from the other (sorry for putting the bacote near the bottom of the list Lisa :o ). Then there are the other few hundred nice woods to consider ..... but I have time :thumbup2:

Dave
 
DaveK said:
Lisa, I don't want to argue, but I've been breaking with my Dufferin Phantom for many years without a problem. Over the last few years I've been buying a skeaky every year, and have alternated a Schmelke cocobolo sneaky with a straight taper as my break cue, again no problem. While I can see where a collared joint would be stronger, with my wimpy break the true SP wodd-to-wood joint works fine.

BTW, my intent is not to fool anyone but to collect a set of "house cues" with a variety of nice woods. So far there is a rosewood, a coco/BEM, tulipwood/curly, and recently a redheart. Next will be an ebony from either Bob Frey or Mark Bear, then a bacote from the other (sorry for putting the bacote near the bottom of the list Lisa :o ). Then there are the other few hundred nice woods to consider ..... but I have time :thumbup2:

Dave
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Not everyone is as nice to their cues as you are, Dave. :wink:

I am not implying that it will happen, but that the collarless joint face is the weakest link, and the site of where a problem would/could likely develop. I believe this is why cue makers started to add collars to these cues.

I, too, am going for a different wood in each cue I am acquiring. So far I have a non-veneered in BdR, a veneered in BEM, and a veneered in Louro Preto (Brazilian Bocote). Next two on my list are Tulipwood and PH...hopefully Curly PH. :grin:

Beyond just lovin' the way a full splice looks...I love how they play even better!!

Lisa
 
I may be confused, too. I thought that a Plain Jane would be a simple sneaky pete that had been tarted up (modified and embellished) enough that it wouldn't fool most people.

Like, a Sneaky Pete that had a visible joint, beautiful wood choice, great worksmanship, technically developed shaft... That would actually be a Plain Jane...

A Sneaky Pete would fool people in a dark bar well enough that they might try to shoot with your cue and call it an accident. Oh wait- that last example happens with all cues : )

Just mucking things up, here.

: )
 
blah blah said:
I may be confused, too. I thought that a Plain Jane would be a simple sneaky pete that had been tarted up (modified and embellished) enough that it wouldn't fool most people.

Like, a Sneaky Pete that had a visible joint, beautiful wood choice, great worksmanship, technically developed shaft... That would actually be a Plain Jane...

A Sneaky Pete would fool people in a dark bar well enough that they might try to shoot with your cue and call it an accident. Oh wait- that last example happens with all cues : )

Just mucking things up, here.

: )
Click to expand...

blah blah

I actually leave a Players Sneaky Pete in my Car at all times just for playing in bar rooms on busy nights when a good cue would get messed up. I am not trying to hustle the fish only play king of the table. But two reasons I use a Sneaky Pete is I don't want to look foolish when a falling down drunk beats me. And the Player's Sneaky Pete only cost me $ 43.00 tax title and license out the door with a 50,000 mile guarantee. BTW it doesn't hit all that bad. But then when you pay big money like $ 43.00 for a cue, it should be good. :eek:

Yep it has ended up in the Cue rack several times because I didn't keep an eye on it.
 
blah blah said:
I may be confused, too. I thought that a Plain Jane would be a simple sneaky pete that had been tarted up (modified and embellished) enough that it wouldn't fool most people.

Like, a Sneaky Pete that had a visible joint, beautiful wood choice, great worksmanship, technically developed shaft... That would actually be a Plain Jane...

A Sneaky Pete would fool people in a dark bar well enough that they might try to shoot with your cue and call it an accident. Oh wait- that last example happens with all cues : )

Just mucking things up, here.

: )
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A Plain Jane is a cue that has no points. Usually has the bare minimum in the way of rings...if at all. A Merry Widow is generally a fancier version of the Plain Jane...with perhaps an exotic wood handle added, fancier rings, perhaps even some inlays in the butt sleeve....but still no points. Also, a PJ/MW will typically have a construction technique using an A-joint to connect the butt/handle to the forearm...not like a sneaky pete that will have a full spliced construction technique...no A-joint, as the two pieces of wood are 'spliced' (glued) together.

Hope this helps to clear things up a bit!

Lisa
 
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