Dirty Shaft Threads

Guys, I've worked on a few Schon shafts, but certainly not as many as some of the other cue-repair guys.

They are different! They are not a "standard" 5/16-14 thread, like Joss and EVERYONE else uses. They only fit on a Schon butt of the same era. I remember the first time I got a Schon shaft to clean, and I nearly ruined the shaft because it did not thread properly onto my standard 5/16-14 mandrel.

This is not a case of dirty threads.

Iowa-Player, you have two options.

1. Sell the shafts as-is. Schon shafts are desirable and you will probably do well.

2. Take them to a cue-repair man along with the non-schon butt you want to match them up with. The repair man will be able to make them work, and they will fit your butt fine. However, this will probably make them non-desirable in the future to other Schon butt owners, if you ever decide to sell them. But they will be fine for your current butt.
 
> As Mike Webb and myself have posted on this exact subject several times,some may be newer than that,and haven't found this in the search forum.

The Schon is ABSOLUTELY not a typical 5/16-14. On a standard 5/16 pin,the outside diameter should be reasonably close to .3125. On MY Schon,the diameter is .3022,and I have seen as small as .3004,and as large as .3089,on a cross-section of 10 different Schons,across a time period from 1991-present.

The other thing that has to be considered is that not only is the MAJOR diameter (outside of pin) undersized,the MINOR (bottom of thread groove) is also undersized,and is rarely the same amount,but for a general idea I've found it to be between .006-.010. from what the STANDARD is.

This is why there is so rarely a problem getting aftermarket shafts to fit a Schon,because the factories use the standard tap,not the custom market-only .302 version.

The exact opposite doesn't work,you'll ruin an unmodded Schon shaft before you get it seated fully on a Joss butt,I promise.

The only thing that does not change periodically and without notice is the number of threads,that being 14,same as the Joss,Scruggs,Boar,etc.

Evan says right on the site that screw threads have idiosyncrasies (gospel),and he varies things to try and maintain a certain class of fit.

You can go to Wal-Mart and get a .308 rifle bore brush,and try cleaning the threads out with that. Cutting the pilot down to fit a Joss SS collar takes total concentricity and therefore,a skilled operator running a lathe set up for at least general cue work,preferably for joint operations. Tommy D.
 
Aluminum can pull tab (rear sight) and cotter pin at screw-on tip (front sight)

greyghost said:
now thats original....man i gotta try and do that and mess with everyone up at Slow Eddies
Grey Ghost
Click to expand...

GG:

Yup! Hu (ShootingArts) had a great addendum idea to this -- if you can find a cheapie cue with a screw-on tip, you easily install a cotter pin at the screw-on tip end as the other end of your "iron sights."

180px-Cotter_Pin_%28PSF%29.png


(Naturally, you want an unused cotter pin, like you see in the right-hand side of the above picture.)

What you'd do, is to insert the screw-on tip's screw through the cotter pin's head (the looped hole), and screw the tip down to lock it in place. Next, make sure to turn the cue so that the cotter pin's two parallel legs are sticking straight up, towards the table light, and align the aluminum can pull tab (at the cue's joint) so that it's also pointing straight up toward the table light. (The idea naturally being to create a standard front and rear sight just like on a rifle.)

180px-Visierlinie.jpg


You might want to trim down the excess length (and even-up the two points to the same length) on the cotter pin's two parallel legs, with a pair of bolt cutters or a Dremel tool or something (naturally, uninstall the cotter pin from the cue first, and do this trimming separately). Voila! You now have a set of "iron sights" for your cue, ready to mess with your fishes' heads!

:D

-Sean
 
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