Do shimmed pockets play funny?

[BlueClifford]

I’m looking for a Gold Crown and recently came across a GC3 with shimmed pockets. The shimming material seemed very hard when compared to the rubber. I felt like it would create a lot of rattling? but I’ve never played with shimmed pockets.

Other than that the table and cloth looked to be in very good condition, although the owner was unsure if rubbers had been replaced or not. No ball return. He said he would sell for $3k CAD which imo is too high.

Just wanted to see if anyone had experience playing on a table with shimmed pockets. Thanks!

 

[garczar]

A little bit of shim is ok but when you start stacking them the pockets play funky. Spit a lot of balls out.

 

[TrxR]

I’m looking for a Gold Crown and recently came across a GC3 with shimmed pockets. The shimming material seemed very hard when compared to the rubber. I felt like it would create a lot of rattling? but I’ve never played with shimmed pockets.

Other than that the table and cloth looked to be in very good condition, although the owner was unsure if rubbers had been replaced or not. No ball return. He said he would sell for $3k CAD which imo is too high.

Just wanted to see if anyone had experience playing on a table with shimmed pockets. Thanks!

Depending on which part of Canada Gold Crowns are not easy to find.

 

[PracticeChampion]

Table looks in great condition, fixing the pockets is cheap if they even need fixed, Buy it!

 

[rexus31]

The proper way to tighten pockets is to add wood to the ends of the subrails, cut the pocket openings to the desired size and install new rubber. This operation is not inexpensive by any means. Stacked facings or "shimming" the pockets is not recommended as it can make the pockets play dead. You could always remove the stacked facings which will open the pockets up but if you want pockets the size they are now, there's only one way to do it correctly.

 

[garczar]

If you just want to go from stock to 4.5 you can use the thick facings that ClassicBilliards sells.

 

[rexus31]

If you just want to go from stock to 4.5 you can use the thick facings that ClassicBilliards sells.

If they need to be 1/4"+ I'd go with something softer than 60 Durometer.

 

[garczar]

If they need to be 1/4"+ I'd go with something softer than 60 Durometer.

I played on a GC4 that used these facings at it played fine. didn't notice any balls being unduly spit out. plus its waaay cheaper than subrail mods.

 

[xX-Wizard-Xx]

I played on a GC4 that used these facings at it played fine. didn't notice any balls being unduly spit out. plus its waaay cheaper than subrail mods.

Same here ..... they play fine ... dont look as great as sub rail extensions but work as an alternative

 

[rexus31]

Balls being spit out is caused by the pocket angle remaining the same while reducing the pocket size. Pocket cut angle should decrease the tighter the pockets are or else balls struck cleanly down the rail with pace will be rejected. This can vary table to table depending on how wide the pockets were cut from the factory. Not all Gold Crown pocket angels are created equally. Dead pockets on the other hand, are an issue with thicker facing. Balls are not as lively as they should be in the jaws and balls definitely die when hitting the points.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I’m looking for a Gold Crown and recently came across a GC3 with shimmed pockets. The shimming material seemed very hard when compared to the rubber. I felt like it would create a lot of rattling? but I’ve never played with shimmed pockets.

Other than that the table and cloth looked to be in very good condition, although the owner was unsure if rubbers had been replaced or not. No ball return. He said he would sell for $3k CAD which imo is too high.

Just wanted to see if anyone had experience playing on a table with shimmed pockets. Thanks!

It's going to play tough if the angle is factory 142* compounded with the double shim.
Frankly, I'd prefer 140*, even if it's a little under 4.5".
GC3's are cheap now. They're really old already and are the weakest of all GC's. But, replacing the cushions is cheaper than I and II.

 

[dendweller]

It's going to play tough if the angle is factory 142* compounded with the double shim.
Frankly, I'd prefer 140*, even if it's a little under 4.5".
GC3's are cheap now. They're really old already and are the weakest of all GC's. But, replacing the cushions is cheaper than I and II.

I have a gc4, shimmed it with the 50 durometer 3/8 shims from classic billiards bringing them to about 4.5. I've measured the angles with a digital angle finder and they are all at least 142, some more. The pockets don't rattle, even at 50 durometer they play a little clunky and balls don't get spit out.
The pool hall I play at has the classic 5 inch pockets on GC3s but they have to be soft 1/8 inch facings because they are sneaky tough at rattling them.

I'm going to try extending the rails, the shims are better than harder ones but given the shelve you end up with, they don't really play tough.

 

[Lawnboy77]

The rattle wouldn’t be as concerning to me as dead areas next to the points. Stacking shims are just no good in my opinion. You’re better off leaving the pockets stock size if you are not going to do the job right and extend the subrail with wood.

 

[bbb]

Shims will/can affect some shots but
Most of your shots will not be affected by the shims
so you accept those as collateral damage and enjoy the table for all the joy that it gives you
The table is in great shape so if you and the seller can find a price that makes you both happy I would buy it (jmho)
as said above the best way to make a tight pocket is to extend the rails
o rather than put shims in but that can get expensive
and you need a table mechanic that really knows what they’re doing

 

[rexus31]

so you accept those as collateral damage and enjoy the table for all the joy that it gives you

When the ball dies on the points all joy gets shot to hell.

 

[buckshotshoey]

One shim only... 1/4 thick max. Stick with that and it will be fine.

 

[rexus31]

One shim only... 1/4 thick max. Stick with that and it will be fine.

50 Durometer may be in order at 1/4".

 

[bbb]

When the ball dies on the points all joy gets shot to hell.

not if the table plays great over all
it all depends on if you are able to accept the good/great with the bad
especially when it occurs infrequently.
i agree with you that extended rails are the best way to go and thats what i did on my table
but i played with tripple shims for years with the dimple where the shim and point met
i just accepted it and was happy i had a table in my house
the glass can be half full or half empty .....

 

[realkingcobra]

not if the table plays great over all
it all depends on if you are able to accept the good/great with the bad
especially when it occurs infrequently.
i agree with you that extended rails are the best way to go and thats what i did on my table
but i played with tripple shims for years with the dimple where the shim and point met
i just accepted it and was happy i had a table in my house
the glass can be half full or half empty .....

Is that the same as half right, half wrong?

 

[bbb]

Is that the same as half right, half wrong?

No