Do you perfer wood to wood joint or SS and why

Jimmy_Betmore said:
In my experience the joint has very, very little to do with the "hit" of a cue. It mostly comes down to the following (in order):

1) Tip
2) Ferrule
2.5) Shaft Taper

I've ordered and played with steel joint cues that hit soft and I've ordered and played with wood to wood jointed cues that hit super hard. I adjusted the hit to my liking by changing the tip and occasionally the ferrule. I've never had a taper changed but could notice a difference in them.

So, talk to your cuemaker. Order what you want. But if the hit isn't exactly what you want, change it. I'd be surprised if you can't get it there.
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I agree, but #4 would be joint. I think that big ass pin flat face might be the best joint now, but I have cues made by masters, and trust me they feel incredible.

Over the years, I have owned many, many Josswest cues. So all things being the same (tip, taper, ferrules, etc) other than the joint, the ivory flat face JW by far were the best playing Josswest. For most, I think this was pretty well known as they always were in demand.

Ken
 
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Bavafongoul said:
If I asked a cue-maker to make a cue using a particular type joint, in my case flat faced big pin ivory,
and he expressed any reservations whatsoever or tried to steer me towards a different style joint, I
would take my business elsewhere. This applies to every cue-maker I can name, both living & deceased.
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At one time I used to think like you on joints.

But I think if I went to Southwest cues and told her I didn't want her normal pin and joint, and I wanted 5/16X18 (Meucci) she would deny it, and for good reason.

Now, I think asking any cuemaker to change from their normal pin and joint is crazy.

Ken
 
Ken_4fun said:
At one time I used to think like you on joints.

But I think if I went to Southwest cues and told her I didn't want her normal pin and joint, and I wanted 5/16X18 (Meucci) she would deny it, and for good reason.

Now, I think asking any cuemaker to change from their normal pin and joint is crazy.

Ken
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This.

It's one of, if not the most important component of a cue, and I will just let them do it how they always do it.
 
I have tons of cues with both types of joints and I can't see one is any better than the other, but I think wood-to-wood may have a softer (or different) hit. To me, I think they have a bit of "flex" in the feel of the hit.

Cue joints aren't rocket science. It is a collar, a pin, maybe an insert, and a hole.

Nobody is going to convince me that one person's wood-to-wood joint is going to be a great difference from another maker's joint...assuming they do quality work with quality materials.
 
I've had a lot of cues over the years. Including wood-to-wood jointed cues. And every wood jointed cue I have ever had has always come loose. Even after it came back from the cuemaker it still came loose.

No wood-to-wood joint cues for me.

r/DCP
 
I've always preferred ivory to wood because it plays awesome. Now I have 3 customs that are all ivory to wood and I have 3 production cues that are all wood to carbon fiber.

I always avoided ss as I personally hate the look.
 
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5/16 14 steel. you can easily find other shafts to fit without sending the cue in.
the joint wont ever warp
hard to damage joint
temperature wont affect it.

if looking for cool, or special looks no help
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
I've had a lot of cues over the years. Including wood-to-wood jointed cues. And every wood jointed cue I have ever had has always come loose. Even after it came back from the cuemaker it still came loose.

No wood-to-wood joint cues for me.

r/DCP
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How is it people have played over time with ‘lots of cues’ . Enough for the joints to come lose? I’ve played for 51 years and never, as in never , has it been an issue...playing just about every day.

‘Every wooden joint‘...as in how many? I’ve played for 14 years with my current cue.


Do people whack the cue on the table? Use the cue as a lever move rocks? Then need a new cue every 6 months?
 
Bob Jewett said:
We used to have persimmon and nectarine trees. You gotta get those suckers down before the birds get them.
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I’ve used old cues as plant stakes for tomato plants.

Anyways, same folks with all those loose joints will then be upgrading their joint protectors. I’m never quite sure what they are protecting them against...I’ve never had anyone attack my cue with any type of animal or machinery.
 
Ghosst said:
Been there. I had a Dufferin "Signature" joint (piloted aluminum) completely seize on me. It took two of us to unscrew it and I'm surprised it didn't break the cue. After that I've always used cue wax on my joint pins.
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Al Selinger of Dufferin Cue showed me how to handle the all aluminum joints.
...if you couldn’t get it apart, vibrate it by hitting the forearm on your hand.
He said aluminum to aluminum sometimes creates a weld....and you have to shake them apart.
I never had that problem again....I sold a lot.

Although I talked him into his first wood to wood line....I liked the hit much better.
 
southernfried said:
In response to the posts, "wood to wood vs stainless steel," here's an old time trick to soften the blow with metal joints. It also cuts down on wear at the joint interface on wood to wood joints as described by ShootingArts.

I recently bit the bullet and ordered a carbon fiber cue shaft. It plays OK but I felt more vibration than I like on some strokes. At the cost of these things I needed a way to make it work for me.

Back in the days when metal joints were first being used on two-piece cues many players didn’t like the feel compared to one piece cues or two piece cues with wood to wood joints. To soften the feel they added a thin cardboard washer, cut from something like a cereal box, between the shaft and butt of the cue.

If you’d like a bit softer hit from your cue give it a try. Zero dollars and cents to find out if it works for you.

I tried it with the carbon fiber shaft. Perfect for me. I determined I liked the change and cut a permanent washer from some automotive gasket material I had in my tool box. Drill the hole for the joint pin first, screw the pieces together, use a pencil to trace the outside of the washer, remove and cut just a bit inside the line to be sure nothing protrudes. Test it and if the fit is good you’re done.

Tried to insert a photo but haven't quite figured out how to do that.

Cheers y'all.
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What kind of cereal did you use?

I tried Punch Crunch but it made my cue want to shoot to hard. I had a terrible time on touch shots while using that cereal box washer.

I finally found the right cereal box to use. I used a Crispix cereal box.

Crispix gave my cue that crisp hit we all like without being to punchie...

I hear Eric Crisp sells good washers too.

Jeff


Edit:

I almost forgot that when I use a washer made from Quaker Oatmeal.....MAN....my game is very consistent.
 
I would go with whatever the cuemaker you are working with feels best for the cue he is making. There are no hard and fast rules

I will say this but a lot of the joints I have liked the most have been the joints that are tightest and most rigid, for the most part

I LOVE the compression fit 5/16x14 joint in a Tascarella. It is incredibly solid and not harsh

Jeff Olney did a a 3/8x10 wood to wood that was a workout to screw together and was a great joint IMO

Chuck Starkey did a 1/2 x 8 wood joint that was awesome and also very snug

Tip, taper and ferrule material have the most effect on hit, BUT joint does matter

What cuemaker are you using?
 
Wood to wood, it seems to have more feel, and a steel joint adds a lot of weight in the middle of the cue. That said, I think they all play about the same. Personal preference only.
 
jrctherake said:
What kind of cereal did you use?

I tried Punch Crunch but it made my cue want to shoot to hard. I had a terrible time on touch shots while using that cereal box washer.

I finally found the right cereal box to use. I used a Crispix cereal box.

Crispix gave my cue that crisp hit we all like without being to punchie...

I hear Eric Crisp sells good washers too.

Jeff


Edit:

I almost forgot that when I use a washer made from Quaker Oatmeal.....MAN....my game is very consistent.
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Cute. At the risk of being politically incorrect.. I used to use Wheaties but I saw what it did to Bruce Jenner
 
I'm firmly in the "it doesn't matter" camp. I've had them all and never worried about the joint type. My current cue is a Mezz Wavy and its fine but i didn't buy it based on the joint. If i was to order a new cue it would be a Bierbower with a stainless joint 'cause i think that style of cue is just cool as hell.
 
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