I'm not sure if you can solve this out.. I got stuck when I had b's and powers of b. Then had a beer and gave up. If I'm real motivated I'll plug it into MathCAD
Do you really know the radius you prefer on your tip?
- Thread starter Cuemaster98
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I'm not sure if you can solve this out.. I got stuck when I had b's and powers of b. Then had a beer and gave up. If I'm real motivated I'll plug it into MathCAD
Forget the formula. I think it only serves to confuse an elementary point. Create a rounded tip to your liking. Consistency(the tip holding it's shape),is what the OP is talking about.
Yes. My player is 11.75 mm and it get's the nickel shape and seems to work better.
I believe tip curvature and diameter is a matter of preference. If you care about it then it matters to you. If you don't care about it then it probably doesn't matter so long as the tip is still holding chalk and you can hit the cue ball where you want to.
People run out with house cues that have some pretty strange looking/mushroomed and misshapen tips. Guess it doesn't matter to them.
Hey Duc, check out the dome calculators here http://www.geo-dome.co.uk/article.asp?uname=calculation
perhaps they can help you in your quest. They will probably only give resonable approximations.
Good Luck
Whatever curve (radius) you shape your tip to, it changes as soon as you start using it - usually flattening some, which means it becomes a larger radius (if you shape it to a dime radius, it might flatten to a nickel radius, for instance).
This means two things:
1. You probably need to shape your tip to a smaller radius curve than the one you actually like to play with - for instance, if you like playing with a nickel shape, you might need to start with a dime shape.
2. You probably don't need to re-shape it very often. This is good because if you re-shape it very often then you're often playing with a tip that's changing it's shape (flattening from use), and that might mean inconsistency.
But I wonder how important the amount of tip curvature really is, considering that only the middle 10mm or so ever touches the ball.
pj
chgo
This means two things:
1. You probably need to shape your tip to a smaller radius curve than the one you actually like to play with - for instance, if you like playing with a nickel shape, you might need to start with a dime shape.
2. You probably don't need to re-shape it very often. This is good because if you re-shape it very often then you're often playing with a tip that's changing it's shape (flattening from use), and that might mean inconsistency.
But I wonder how important the amount of tip curvature really is, considering that only the middle 10mm or so ever touches the ball.
pj
chgo
b = R - square root of (RxR - axa).
Example. If R =10 and a = 6.5 (the numbers in your prior example), then
b = 10 - square root of (10x10 - 6.5x6.5)
= 10 - square root of (100 - 42.25)
= 10 - square root of 57.75
= 10 - 7.6
= 2.4
= 10 - square root of (100 - 42.25)
= 10 - square root of 57.75
= 10 - 7.6
= 2.4
Yes. I like mine with a car wash token radius:grin:
Oh sh*t, thats easy, I had the bottom as being 2^b, giving me one messy equation. When I worked it 2b its no sweat. 2.4 is correct.
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Looks like we have a winner!!! Email me your address and I will send a Molavia (Let me know hardness).
Thanks.
Thanks.
Now that we have the formula...we should be able to built a custom guage that will give you the exact radius that you need. Any idea on building a device for builder to give you the exact radius of your current playing tip?
I would imagine is tip shape cutter that can be set to various radius or can clone the radius of your playing cue. Right now I'm using a caliper to measure the tip size and height of my curvature.
3 of my best playing shafts curvature:
Titlist Shaft:
One of my playing cue has a tip diameter of 12.48mm, height 2.31mm, Medium Molavia tip.
So my Radius according the formula should be:
R= 2.31 + (38.9376-5.3361)/4.62
R= 9.58
Pete Tascarella Shaft:
12.8mm, Height 2.43, Sniper
R= 9.64
My best playing cue Joel weinstock shaft:
12.6mm, height 2.35, hard Molavia
R: 9.61
So, I guess I really like shafts that has a Radius that approximately in my range of 9.6...probably a dime diameter.
I will take pics of these shafts to show later tonight. Would love to build a device that can replicate the curvature. I have a cutting tool from Chris hightower that I mark so it give me the same cut every time. So when it reset..it's not always accurate but it pretty close.
Anyway, I think there something to be said about having the tips with very close curvature. This was just one of my observation when I try to find the variables that affect the cues that I liked. Of course, all these cue has great construction, super high quality shaft wood, great tip (Molavia Hard is the best tip, Sniper on pete shaft is great as well)...I would image other tip like moori and kamui would be comparable with the same curvature. But oddly enough, I have 3 shafts with different tip (Moori, Kamui and Molavia) and the Kamui can draw as well as the Molavia and Moori.
We test this at the Valley forge and I'm not sure why but the Kamui just did performance as well drawing. All these tips are great playing tips..and each tip make it own unique sound as well.
Regards,
Duc.
I would imagine is tip shape cutter that can be set to various radius or can clone the radius of your playing cue. Right now I'm using a caliper to measure the tip size and height of my curvature.
3 of my best playing shafts curvature:
Titlist Shaft:
One of my playing cue has a tip diameter of 12.48mm, height 2.31mm, Medium Molavia tip.
So my Radius according the formula should be:
R= 2.31 + (38.9376-5.3361)/4.62
R= 9.58
Pete Tascarella Shaft:
12.8mm, Height 2.43, Sniper
R= 9.64
My best playing cue Joel weinstock shaft:
12.6mm, height 2.35, hard Molavia
R: 9.61
So, I guess I really like shafts that has a Radius that approximately in my range of 9.6...probably a dime diameter.
I will take pics of these shafts to show later tonight. Would love to build a device that can replicate the curvature. I have a cutting tool from Chris hightower that I mark so it give me the same cut every time. So when it reset..it's not always accurate but it pretty close.
Anyway, I think there something to be said about having the tips with very close curvature. This was just one of my observation when I try to find the variables that affect the cues that I liked. Of course, all these cue has great construction, super high quality shaft wood, great tip (Molavia Hard is the best tip, Sniper on pete shaft is great as well)...I would image other tip like moori and kamui would be comparable with the same curvature. But oddly enough, I have 3 shafts with different tip (Moori, Kamui and Molavia) and the Kamui can draw as well as the Molavia and Moori.
We test this at the Valley forge and I'm not sure why but the Kamui just did performance as well drawing. All these tips are great playing tips..and each tip make it own unique sound as well.
Regards,
Duc.
I see no reason why the radius of a cue tip even needs to be uniform throughout its cross-section. I think I'll use a parabolic or clothoid shape on my tip... :grin: