Drawing the cue ball with CF shaft

I draw just fine with my maple shafts.
It's controlling the draw that is the trick.
Two inches, 6 inches, 10 inches, 2 feet for shape.
Show me a CF shaft that will make controlling the cue ball easier using draw and I'm in.
That being said I am a wood shaft guy with simple good old hard pressed Triangle single layer tips.
At the Expo I did test hit a few CF shafts.
I tried the Predator, BeCue, and Whyte shafts.
The Predator felt the best, slickest, of all three.
I also found my english was more difficult to control as the ball just took off with spin.
For me, the less force I put into a shot, the more control I have with the cue ball, including draws. Less force also allows me to be more likely to pocket the object ball. The cf shafts allow me to use less force, especially with draws.

Twice now I've switched from wood to cf and there always was an adjustment period for controlling the speed of the draw, but the adjustment was always made in fairly short time (I do practice a lot, though). The reason I went back to the wood in the past was because I could aim the wooden shaft easier due to it's color. The main reason for returning back to the cf was because of an easier draw.
 
For me, the less force I put into a shot, the more control I have with the cue ball, including draws. Less force also allows me to be more likely to pocket the object ball. The cf shafts allow me to use less force, especially with draws.

Twice now I've switched from wood to cf and there always was an adjustment period for controlling the speed of the draw, but the adjustment was always made in fairly short time (I do practice a lot, though). The reason I went back to the wood in the past was because I could aim the wooden shaft easier due to it's color. The main reason for returning back to the cf was because of an easier draw.
Earl "the Pearl" told me this once: "Forward is much easier to control, than draw" :)

TFT
 
I've shot with both- got a Cynergy Cuetec a few years ago. My friends claim that I draw better with the CF, but I haven't noticed a significant difference. For several years I've been shooting with a 6 inch (4 ounce) extension of my cue- I find that the added weight does allow for more draw, but I haven't done an experiment to prove it.
 
Carbon Shafts have a "bit" better energy transfer as some also already wrote here. That s a fact. But to really make a statement like "i can draw better with a CF" would also need a requirement:
And that would mean, that you re able to execute all the time the stroke with the same speed, acceleration and furthermore hittin the cueball exactly the same point. And this is already tougher for the bigger amount of players.
The fact, that the energy transfer is a bit better can help "a bit"-

I can just say from my point of view, that i don t have no measurable difference. I played a lot cf shafts because i m curious- and ofc also with wooden shafts. On some shots you need a bit less acceleration with a carbon fiber shaft because of the bit better energy transfer. But in my opinion need a really good technique to benefit from this. To play with a really stiff shaft (no matter what material) means also, that the shaft is less forgiving. If you have a technically not really good stroke, you will scratch or slip of the cueball with a super stiff shaft.

I went back to wooden shaft, because it gives me more self-confidence. To know what happens if i play a shot is much more important to me, to maybe draw a shot (maybe!!) 15 cm more back. It is just easier for me personally, to control the cueball with my wooden shaft.
That means of course not, that carbon shafts are less good-- they have advantages like constistency, they never warp, they hold usually for a life time.
the mind is a great part :-) And I m sure that almost everyone has made the expirience with "a new shaft"- to think, that you ll play immediatley better. And in most cases just for a short time- then reality strikes back :-)
To stay with your material is the key to consistency.

And as a sidenote: In my opinion the tip makes a much greater difference. Shape, grip and hardness of the tip gives me the feeling of "confidence" when i hit the cueball immediatley. And if you try to compare two shafts make sure that you have the same tip on it- in best case also on teh same cue butt. And just testing it for 30 minutes also not really make sense :-)

No shaft on the planet will make you a much better player- but it can give you more confidence. But you need to play a long time, until you will make a new shaft *your extended arm" again after changing a shaft.

_________

a student came once over and was celebrating his new carbon shaft like the holy gral (what is good, if he really has such a great positive feeling about it!!). - That he could draw the cueball soooo much more back with it.
So we went to the table and tried out what he wanted to do :-) To have a look how much more distance he ( we?) could draw the cueball back with a power draw shot.
In these 60 Minues there was no difference in "his attempts"- always between 9 or 10 diamonds. with both shafts (a regular shaft and his new super weapon ^^).

In my case i have had the best results with my regular wooden shaft- but the difference was just 15 cm or so- so with my wooden shaft the cueball travveled 11,5 diamonds-- and with the cf shaft between 10-11 diamonds. So not really a big difference. But what far more important for me personally I mis-cued everal times with the carbon fiber shaft. No matter what kind of mistake i maybe made-- this has shown me, that my regular shaft gives me of course much more confidence. and that what counts for me- and should count for everyone else imo.
( the student also mis-cued much more often with the carbon fiber shaft-- but he still said, the carbon shaft is much better for him).

i can just recommend to test a new shaft a bit longer. and really take seriously notes, to see if you have an advantage with it. and this doesn t work while testing a few minutes.
BUT: if you love the famouse "nice to have feeling"- and it would mean more for you than having more success/confidence...it is your decision :-)
 
Typical league schlub here. My impression is that draw has much more to do with technique. I, like many league players, are crappy at it so draw is not used anywhere precision is required. Need a long draw? Get a stun. Need a 2 foot draw? Tone down the stroke and the #$%^& cue ball will run the length of the table. I've done this many times with both types of cues.
 
Typical league schlub here. My impression is that draw has much more to do with technique. I, like many league players, are crappy at it so draw is not used anywhere precision is required. Need a long draw? Get a stun. Need a 2 foot draw? Tone down the stroke and the #$%^& cue ball will run the length of the table. I've done this many times with both types of cues.
Unless you're going for the absolute limit of distance, slowing down your stroke will give you more reliable action. You can get 80-90% of your maximum travel with about 60% of the effort in my experience, and you can get that every time, without risking a miscue or a miss. Stay within your skill limit and profit. Unless you're just practising or showing off, of course.
 
An interesting side note: Dr. Dave says for maximum draw at a distance you shouldn't hit near the miscue limit even if you reliably can - he says about 3/4 of maximum tip offset actually gives better results and explains why on his "resource page" linked below.

pj
chgo

 
An interesting side note: Dr. Dave says for maximum draw at a distance you shouldn't hit near the miscue limit even if you reliably can - he says about 3/4 of maximum tip offset actually gives better results and explains why on his "resource page" linked below.

pj
chgo

Hey Patrick,

Can you explain tip offset for me? And does tip shape have anything to do with it?
 
Hey Patrick,

Can you explain tip offset for me? And does tip shape have anything to do with it?
Tip offset is the distance from the CB’s center. Maximum tip offset is where miscues begin - about halfway from center to edge. A tip that's poorly shaped (too flat) or not well chalked might make that distance smaller.

pj
chgo
 
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