Drawing the rack outline on your table

center pocket

center pocket

It's just a hobby, but a fun one.
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I am getting a new table here real soon and was wondering what is the best way to do the rack out line on my table? should I use a laser pen to make sure everything is perfectly straight? Also do I use a sharpie or what to draw the outline?
 
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I like to use string to make my lay-out lines (pull tight over the rails and sight straight down to the cloth)

Or measure with a square from the rails to be sure you are really where you think you are.

And to make the actual marks, yes, a Sharpie, but the 'very fine' one; not the typical 'fine' one everyone has.

And use black. I have found the red and blue inks to run easier than the black.

Also, the "Sharpie Industrial" ones are better ink than the normal ones; however I don't know if they come in the 'very fine' tip. If so, get those (but don't screw up!)

If you have to get it off, denatured alcohol will remove the normal sharpie usually...
 
I like to use strings to set up the footspot. You can hold the string to the rails with some painters tape. That's the most important thing to get dead on. Once that's done, I hit the back of the sticker with some 3M spray adhesive, then rack the full rack of balls on that spot and simply measure each back corner of the rack to the short rail to be sure you are square. I've always used a pencil because I feared a marker would bleed.
 
3andstop said:
... I've always used a pencil because I feared a marker would bleed.
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It will if you move too slow... Set the rack exactly where you want it, weigh it down with something so it doesn't move, and then trace it smoothly- don't stop! When you get to the corners you may have to keep your hand moving and lift off the cloth to prevent a 'spot' forming with the ink.

It is really not that bad, but you do have to be careful.

Pencil is OK but has to be re-done every so often and is a bit dirty. Someone here mentioned soapstone which is great on a pool room table (since it wipes right off).
 
There is a lot of room for personal preference when you draw the lines and I ask this same question a while back.
There is one point that you will want to consider which no one mentioned to me and that is:
When you place the rack of your choice on the table then put the balls inside the rack there is almost always some room between the balls and the rack at the back of the balls. This allows you to lift the rack with out disturbing the balls.

Consider that when you draw the lines.

Also I found that the line you do draw should be the "inside" dimensions of the rack....NOT the out side as some folks suggested.
The inside line will be the same regardless of which rack you may choose to use.

You also want to be careful to get the base of the rack parallel to the foot rail and the nose of the rack should allow for the nose ball to sit dead on the spot... most tables will develop a dimple where the head ball is racked and that dimple is not always in the center of the spot which you will see what I mean once you have that rack outlined on the table.

Finally as the other posted mentioned....DON'T screw up.
Take your time and be sure you know exactly what you want before you allow the tip of that pen to touch the table.

Figure it all out on paper 1st then go to it!
Good luck.
 
BigRigTom said:
Also I found that the line you do draw should be the "inside" dimensions of the rack....NOT the out side as some folks suggested.
The inside line will be the same regardless of which rack you may choose to use.
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While this is true, I dissagree with the logic because any ball that "interferes with racking" is considered in the rack.

4.8 Special Racking Situations

When the cue ball or fifteenth object ball interferes with racking fourteen balls for a new rack, the following special rules apply. A ball is considered to interfere with the rack if it is within or overlaps the outline of the rack. The referee will state when asked whether a ball interferes with the rack.

(a) If the fifteenth ball was pocketed on the shot that scored the fourteenth ball, all fifteen balls are re-racked.

(b) If both balls interfere, all fifteen balls are re-racked and the cue ball is in hand behind the head string.

(c) If only the object ball interferes, it is placed on the head spot or the center spot if the cue ball blocks the head spot.

(d) If only the cue ball interferes, then it is placed as follows: if the object ball is in front of or on the head string, the cue ball is in hand behind the head string; if the object ball is behind the head string, the cue ball is spotted on the head spot, or on the center spot if the head spot is blocked.

Also, I had assumed this would be for someones personal table, and the same rack would always be used. If it is in a pool rom, please use soapstone or regular white chalk (both sharpened of course)

Your points are valid of course, but for the intended purpose I personally scribe the outside of the rack.

I also like to have the long string from the foot spot to the foot rail as well.
 
center pocket said:
I am getting a new table here real soon and was wondering what is the best way to do the rack out line on my table? should I use a laser pen table make sure everything is perfectly straight? Also do I use a sharpie or what to draw the outline?
Click to expand...

Think about not doing it at all. You don't need it. FWIW, my table has a foot-spot and a head-spot (drawn and filled in with a black sharpie, they are the size of a dime).

Nothing else.
 
Hamster is correct "You don't really need it..." but I like having that line to help me better visualize the position of the break ball and you can easily see if any balls are in the rack area which help in the decisions of which balls to make when.

Anything that helps reduce the uncertainty of the game makes it a more pleasant experience.

I also like that line from the foot spot to the foot rail. It helps when spotting up balls that can not go on the foot spot. That is especially true when several balls are within the rack area and the straight line from the spot to the rail is difficult to visualize.
 
Thanks Guys!!! I have considered not doing it at all but I really plan on getting my straight pool game up to running my first hundred. This means lots of practice. If drawing the outline eliminates me having to pull the rack out everytime to see if a break ball is good or not, then I am going to put that outline down. I just want to make sure its perfect and not f'ed up.

On the dimples on the foot spot. When I first get my table I am going to take my time and tap all the balls in on the cloth.
 
Outline the rack

If you are going to play 14-1 a lot. Then drawing the lines on the cloth is a must. Make sure what ever rack that you use, is the rack that you draw your lines (on the outside of the rack, not inside). Place strings down the table as tight as you can get then. Center diamond to center diamond & across the table, center diamond to center. I have small nails way under the table that I tie the string to so that it can be as tight as possible. The rack will fit under the string and hold it down tight as you draw your lines.
I also think that a drawn rack line gives a good look to the table.
Here is something that might help: Have you ever seen a ball roll onto the edge of a foot spot and then roll another direction? Well, I lost a nice run b/c of it. So I decided to end that problem. Place a foot spot sticker on your table and then take it off. It will leave the round mark of the sticker on the cloth. Color it in with your blk sharpie. Leave a small hole in the center and color it in with a silver sharpie. it looks great and you will never have to worry about balls rolling off line.
 
BigRigTom said:
Also I found that the line you do draw should be the "inside" dimensions of the rack....NOT the out side as some folks suggested.
The inside line will be the same regardless of which rack you may choose to use.


Good luck.
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Whoa ... time out ... that is incorrect Big. The rack outline should ALWAYS be on the outside of the rack. If you use a cheap plastic rack draw the line at it's widest lip area.

The intention of drawing lines for racking is to be sure the CB or the 15th OB does not interfere with the racking of the balls INCLUDING the rack itself.

Further, I suggest if you had to change racks, and it was a different size, and you didn't want to go over the lines on the table, use the line that exists as a guide and not a guesstimation using the new rack.

The space between the actual balls and the OUTER dimension of the rack outline is what allows room for breakshots.

Outlining the inside of the rack will be a false misleading guide for 14.1 play and is not the correct way to outline a rack.


As far as taping the table ... well ...... I personally think that's crazy. I know it's done, but man, you'd never catch me pounding my new table ...whew .... to each his own I suppose. Happy playing!
 
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The Hamster said:
Think about not doing it at all. You don't need it. FWIW, my table has a foot-spot and a head-spot (drawn and filled in with a black sharpie, they are the size of a dime).

Nothing else.
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Most serious 14.1 players will want the rack outlined. Schmidt won't even play if its not done.
 
I am getting a diamond pro am end of november. Hopefully I will get a delta 13 rack for christmas! I will just do the head and foot spots till I get my delta-13.

Thanks for all the input guys. I am thinking twice now about the ball tapping.
 
I will make a plea here for orthodoxy and tradition.

Make sure your foot spot is placed perfectly and correctly.

Outline the outside of the rack you will always use.

Line up the rack with the best measuring tools you have (squares, rulers, laser, etc.)

Draw the line with PENCIL (not too sharp, but not extremely dull) so it is less intrusive and noticeable while you are shooting, but easily noticeable when you need to assess the position of a potential break shot. Trace the outside of the rack while it is in position, being careful to not move it until all 3 sides and the corners are complete.

Draw a straight line in PENCIL from the center of the spot to just below the center diamond on the foot rail; also in pencil; to help with spotting balls during the game.

This is the way Willie Mosconi insisted a friend's table be set up; it is good enough for Betmore's Basement; I would tolerate no other way (when a professional friend insisted that I re-do my lines with Sharpie, I complied, but hated it so much I changed the cloth).
 
You can get away with drawing the headspot, but to not put a spot on the table at its footspot if you play any game that requires you to break the balls hard, you are asking for a premature wear hole.
 
A local pool hall, by local I mean 70 miles away, did the rack and the line with the sharpie. I never even notice it when i am playing. I will do it first in pencil but will almost deffinatly want to do it again in sharpie. I will probably put a foot spot down as my favorite games are 9 and 10 ball.
 
Also I found that the line you do draw should be the "inside" dimensions of the rack....NOT the out side as some folks suggested.
The inside line will be the same regardless of which rack you may choose to use.
Click to expand...

this is smart! after all, we just need the general area where the balls will be placed to determine if a ball is in the rack playing straight pool. if someone uses an indelible marker on their nice cloth then changes racks, they will have a problem. use a soft pencil and don't grind it into the cloth because you might have to change it later.
 
Remember, the possibility is always there, that for some reason you might have to stretch your cloth. If so, the outline could be a big problem.
 
sausage said:
this is smart! after all, we just need the general area where the balls will be placed to determine if a ball is in the rack playing straight pool. if someone uses an indelible marker on their nice cloth then changes racks, they will have a problem. use a soft pencil and don't grind it into the cloth because you might have to change it later.
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S-man,
Actually the inside dimensions of racks vary as do their outside dimensions.

Also, the decision as to whether a ball is "in the rack" or "out of the rack area" is made just from looking at the relationship of the ball to the line of the outside of the rack (NOT by whether the racked balls will fit on the table near that ball). You must also be able to rack without disturbing that ball outside the rack.
 
I really dislike playing on unmarked tables. I use an ordinary black ink ball point pen. Don't bear down to hard. You will need to go over the line more than once to get a good line. I outline the rack, on the outside of course, and draw the head string, center string, foot string and long string from the foot spot to the foot rail. Since my table is used mostly for practice I outline the rack at both ends and at intervals I switch ends. This equalizes the wear on the cloth. When I put down the spot, I take a warm(not to hot)iron and seal it down. This makes it nice and flat so it doesn't deflect a slow rolling ball to much.

Dave Nelson
 
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