Drill bit.

Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
I have a Deluxe traveling north to me right now. This week I will be ordering
taps and carbide drill bits.
What size driil bit is used for the Uni Loc Radial connector pin and joint pin.
Thanks,
Terry.
 
I mostly use 3/8-10 on My cues, so others could give You a better idea of what the best size is to use with the radial, but in My opinion step drilling is the way to go for more accurate drilling . Start out with center drills, or better yet spotting drills, and finish with a good quality reamer in your final diameter. You can also bore accurate holes to final size.

Oh also, the piloted taps work best for keeping the taps running true.
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
I have a Deluxe traveling north to me right now. This week I will be ordering
taps and carbide drill bits.
What size driil bit is used for the Uni Loc Radial connector pin and joint pin.
Thanks,
Terry.
Click to expand...

5/16 X 14 is the correct drill size. You also should use a boring bar. Here is the directions directly from Uni-loc giving all that is needed for correct installation.

http://www.uni-loc.com/install/Radial_Pin_Installation.pdf

Dick
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
I have a Deluxe traveling north to me right now. This week I will be ordering
taps and carbide drill bits.
What size driil bit is used for the Uni Loc Radial connector pin and joint pin.
Thanks,
Terry.
Click to expand...

3/16, 1/4 drill, N drill, 5/16 spot drill ( if your borer can't go down more than 2 inches ), a .345-.350 drill for the alignment barrel ( starter hole which you bore to .370-.371 by 1.125 deep ).
 
sliprock said:
Here ya go! Shoot it on over to this link and you'll find everything that you ever wanted to know about installing uni-loc stuff. Good Luck

http://www.uni-loc.com/uni-loc_cue_makers.php
Click to expand...

Ha! I started writing this up but went outside for a couple of minutes and then posted but now see that you had already done it. You would be surprised at how many cue makers believe they have a better way and wonder why they have problems.

Dick
 
Now thats about as good as it gets plus a few extra tips as well.
Thanks guys, I appreciate it as always.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
3/16, 1/4 drill, N drill, 5/16 spot drill ( if your borer can't go down more than 2 inches ), a .345-.350 drill for the alignment barrel ( starter hole which you bore to .370-.371 by 1.125 deep ).
Click to expand...

This should go without saying anytime a twist drill is used. Step drilling should be done on any drilled hole. Twist drills just don't drill either perfectly straight nor round. By step drilling you make clearance for the chips so that the next size bit cuts straighter. This is reason that a gun drill drills so much straighter, it is a modified spade bit so there is plenty of clearance for chips.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
This should go without saying anytime a twist drill is used. Step drilling should be done on any drilled hole. Twist drills just don't drill either perfectly straight nor round. By step drilling you make clearance for the chips so that the next size bit cuts straighter. This is reason that a gun drill drills so much straighter, it is a modified spade bit so there is plenty of clearance for chips.

Dick
Click to expand...


Or a spot drill. Assuming your tailstock is DON.
I just bore 5/16 by an inch or so and follow it with a spot drill. That way it doesn't shave from the side.
Boring the hole for the barrel is the key since the bottom threads of that pin is undersized anyway.
The barrel on mine is not .372 though. More like .370-.371.
 
Now I'l have to ask you what a spot drill is.

The step drilling makes perfect sense.
We don't have many available tool stores where I live. One that I was able to get the proper taps for ferrules at, had some drill bits that look very similar
to the bits that Prather sells. They didn't have any carbide available but the guy said these work well and wouldn't walk like a normal bit.
They were what he called a split point bit.

So, would it be acceptable to use these bits to step drill until I use the final size in a carbide bit?
I Googled spot drill and they look like the one flute stub bits that Unique sells. I understand what Joey said but what is the purpose of using a spot drill after the final size is started to 1 inch but not finished to your depth.
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
Now I'l have to ask you what a spot drill is.

The step drilling makes perfect sense.
We don't have many available tool stores where I live.
Click to expand...

Try these guys Terry :

http://www.kbctools.com/can/main.cfm

Search on "spotting drill" and you'll be taken to the pdf page from their print catalog .... browsing a page ahead / back is always interesting, although you can get trapped in there web-shopping. They often offer both imported and domestic tools, and seem to be an OK value for smaller orders.

Dave
 
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Spot drills

Blue Hog ridr said:
Now I'l have to ask you what a spot drill is.

The "spot drill" that I use has the nomenclature of "CNC solid carbide spot drill".
It is traditionally used to make a "spot" prior to drilling with a center drill. The
spot drill will not wander on the end grain whereas a center drill will.
On our Haas machining centers every hole was proceeded by "spotting" before
the next operation was executed. This insured an accurately placed starting hole. You can buy CNC spotting drills from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#spotting-drills/=41lact). Mine is 1/4" and I automatically spot before I drill on end grain. Hope this helps. Bob
Click to expand...
 
Suprisingly I have never heard the term spot drill. So I guess you learn something new everyday. Personally I step drill everything including with center drills. I start with the smallest peck and work my way up. I use my mini boaring bar to get to the perfect size.
 
dave sutton said:
Suprisingly I have never heard the term spot drill. So I guess you learn something new everyday. Personally I step drill everything including with center drills. I start with the smallest peck and work my way up. I use my mini boaring bar to get to the perfect size.
Click to expand...

Most everyone who step drills starts with a center drill, but center drills are designed for turning between centers. Using a center drill to get a hole started for further drilling is technically not correct, and a spotting drill is the correct drill for this. I believe the reason has to do with stresses on the lead angle of the drill bits. Ofcourse with wood, it probably doesn't matter, but with drilling metal the stresses could make that first drill bit chasing a center hole wear faster than normal. (This is just my understanding, any resident forum machinist please correct me if I have this wrong.)

Also, I have read that when starting with a solid carbide drill bit, the use of a starting hole made by a spotting drill is not necessary and again, can lead to premature failure due to the way solid carbide bits are made and how the stresses are induced on the bit. But, again, that is probably an observation relevant to drilling metal, and not relevant to wood where grain can cause the bit to wander a little more than it would in metal.

Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
Most everyone who step drills starts with a center drill, but center drills are designed for turning between centers. Using a center drill to get a hole started for further drilling is technically not correct, and a spotting drill is the correct drill for this. I believe the reason has to do with stresses on the lead angle of the drill bits. Ofcourse with wood, it probably doesn't matter, but with drilling metal the stresses could make that first drill bit chasing a center hole wear faster than normal. (This is just my understanding, any resident forum machinist please correct me if I have this wrong.)

Also, I have read that when starting with a solid carbide drill bit, the use of a starting hole made by a spotting drill is not necessary and again, can lead to premature failure due to the way solid carbide bits are made and how the stresses are induced on the bit. But, again, that is probably an observation relevant to drilling metal, and not relevant to wood where grain can cause the bit to wander a little more than it would in metal.

Kelly
Click to expand...

I have and use spotting bits in most of the sizes of drill bits I commonly use. I drill in to the end of the flutes on the spotting bits. This gives the drill bit a straight start with no fear of veering off center at the beginning of drilling so as to have a better chance of drilling a straighter hole.

Dick
 
I believe the reason has to do with stresses on the lead angle of the drill bits.
Click to expand...


i believe it.i tried center drilling a starting hole on 1/2" G-9 rod and it cracked every time.
 
Spotting drills

Kelly_Guy said:
Most everyone who step drills starts with a center drill, but center drills are designed for turning between centers. Using a center drill to get a hole started for further drilling is technically not correct, and a spotting drill is the correct drill for this. I believe the reason has to do with stresses on the lead angle of the drill bits. Ofcourse with wood, it probably doesn't matter, but with drilling metal the stresses could make that first drill bit chasing a center hole wear faster than normal. (This is just my understanding, any resident forum machinist please correct me if I have this wrong.)

Also, I have read that when starting with a solid carbide drill bit, the use of a starting hole made by a spotting drill is not necessary and again, can lead to premature failure due to the way solid carbide bits are made and how the stresses are induced on the bit. But, again, that is probably an observation relevant to drilling metal, and not relevant to wood where grain can cause the bit to wander a little more than it would in metal.

Kelly
Click to expand...

FYI: Additional info on spotting drills--
Spotting drills come with two different point angles, 90 and 120 degree with
the 90 degree one being the most common. The drill is mostly used to accurately define or "spot" the intersection of the X and y axis. There is (at least to my limited knowledge) no other way to accurately accomplish this operation other than with the spot drill. Of course we cue makers use it to spot the exact center of a piece of round stock. Once the intersection is accurately spotted the next operation will accurately follow the spot.
Another use of the spot drill is to drill a hole depth accurately. Since the 90 degree point length is exactly 1/2 the diameter of the drill the hole length can be determined by adding 1/2 the diameter to the desired depth. Thirdly, the 120 degree bit is usually used to cut chamfers on a pre- drilled hole.
 
QMAKER said:
FYI: Additional info on spotting drills--
Spotting drills come with two different point angles, 90 and 120 degree with
the 90 degree one being the most common. The drill is mostly used to accurately define or "spot" the intersection of the X and y axis. There is (at least to my limited knowledge) no other way to accurately accomplish this operation other than with the spot drill. Of course we cue makers use it to spot the exact center of a piece of round stock. Once the intersection is accurately spotted the next operation will accurately follow the spot.
Another use of the spot drill is to drill a hole depth accurately. Since the 90 degree point length is exactly 1/2 the diameter of the drill the hole length can be determined by adding 1/2 the diameter to the desired depth. Thirdly, the 120 degree bit is usually used to cut chamfers on a pre- drilled hole.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the great additional info Bob.

Kelly
 
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