Easier To Make Most Shots With Draw?

[naji]

Anytime I get to use draw on a shot, I feel like my % goes up to make it. Is there a reason for this or is it just me feeling it does. Johnnyt

When you address the tip at low point on the CB, that forces your stroke to be a piston stroke and naturally avoid steering the cue, and your back swing/forward swing will be straight. This is what SVB does on all shots when CB is not hugging a rail..

It is possible you are doing this and not realize it fully!

 

[Neil]

When you address the tip at low point on the CB, that forces your stroke to be a piston stroke and naturally avoid steering the cue, and your back swing/forward swing will be straight. This is what SVB does on all shots when CB is not hugging a rail..

It is possible you are doing this and not realize it fully!

If that were true, almost everyone would have a straight stroke.

 

[Masayoshi]

It depends on how close you are to the object ball. Stun has the most throw (and also the most skids), so you want to have either draw or follow on the cue ball when it strikes the object ball. At short distances, draw can be applied at lower speeds than follow, thus draw is better for making the ball. at longer distances, follow can be applied at lower speeds than draw, thus follow is easier. Also, follow tends to curve more than draw, so draw may be a bit more accurate if you take advantage of the natural pivot point of your cue.

 

[HawaiianEye]

Whenever I feel that one type of hit isn't working as good as the other, I immediately suspect my bridge. If you have a good, firm bridge and can comfortably adjust the cue higher or lower then it makes it easier to both draw and follow.

 

[frankw]

I play on many tables where the opposite it true, especially at shots hit with speed. The pockets reject shots with draw into the corners when shot down the rail at any type of decent speed.

I don't think I've ever put follow or draw on a shot to help me make it, it's always for position. Side spin I use at times, especially on thinner cuts, only to make the ball.

I'm in the same boat. With draw I tend to rattle the balls more frequently. Always suspect I tighten the back hand but not completely sure. and if it matters , I usually play on a 9 ft diamond

 

[Colin Colenso]

Apart from possible sighting and perception advantages, the draw could help in a couple of other important ways.

1. Draw, as it is usually played reasonably firm has a throw component that is close to line of centers, much more so than slow rolling pots and stun cuts. Gearing can be used on such shots but little tip offsets can lead to significant differences in throw angle. Hence, throw on draw shots is quite predictable.

2. Committing to draw requires the player to concentrate on hitting in along the center axis of the CB, meaning they may be less likely to swipe across as an aiming adjustment as they may be prone to do when hitting higher on the CB. This forces a habit of accurate pre-stroke alignment of the bridge.

 

[GoldenFlash]

draw reducing cling?

I saw a video once by Don Feeney where he demonstrated that low with a "drag stroke" would greatly reduce cling.
Also he pointed out that elevating the butt end of the cue, very slightly, would also help to eliminate cling.
I've fooled around with those ideas and must admit that they do work.
Flash

 

[Pushout]

Anytime I get to use draw on a shot, I feel like my % goes up to make it. Is there a reason for this or is it just me feeling it does. Johnnyt

Something I learned from watching no less than the great "Miz", Steve Mizerak in exhibition, hitting the ball low but not low enough to draw it. Before that I was taught to shoot thin cuts hitting very low. Shot with a firm stroke but again, not drawing the cue ball.

 

[DeadStick]

I would say pocket speed with center high gives the best roll of the object ball

In my experience, that's the perfect recipe for a skid/bad contact, particularly on thick cut angles. Just thinking about that awful sound and little hop as the CB tries to climb up the back of the OB gives me shivers.

 

[Spimp13]

Everyone is different. My wife struggles on draw shots...shots that she would make more often with center or top.

 

[Pidge]

Draw has a couple of side effect benefits. Everyone knows what it takes to draw the ball, commit to the shot, cue through and don't give up half way. Not only this but a lot of players start with their tip low to gauge if they're centre and then hit higher up. Draw makes you stroke smoother for the most part accelerating the tip. Also you don't get as many kick/ skids with draw from what I've experienced so the OB stays truer.

I bet 90% of people can hit a stun draw shot on a straight in with ease moving the cue ball back say 6 inches and hitting firm. Half that can hit a stun follow shot firm making the cue ball follow 6 inches, especially when cb-ob distances are further than a few feet. I don't know why this is, maybe because of the angle the cue goes through the ball leads to less body movement with draw.

 

[spartan]

It looks very obvious that you get out of position when you draw so I usually pretend that I am playing for that bad position for whatever reason

 

[naji]

If that were true, almost everyone would have a straight stroke.

My comment is addressed to Johnyt where he makes pots when he uses draw..

 

[randyg]

A slight amount of draw helps the OB start rolling without skid.
.

NOT TRUE!

randyg

 

[randyg]

A draw shot promotes top spin on the object ball, so inaccuracies in aiming are actually corrected slightly. And as the previous poster stated, it helps a cleaner contact.

NOT ENTIRELY TRUE!

randyg

 

[Grantstew]

NOT ENTIRELY TRUE!

randyg

Wow thanks for your contribution

 

[Scott Lee]

Bet...The real percentage would surprise you. It's very low.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I bet 90% of people can hit a stun draw shot on a straight in with ease moving the cue ball back say 6 inches and hitting firm.

 

[Pidge]

Bet...The real percentage would surprise you. It's very low.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Honestly? I class it as such a bread and butter shot. The key is to hitting at a consistent firm speed and adjusting the tip position for more stun draw or less stun draw, not keeping the same tip position and adjusting speed for the distance. What would your estimation be? I would say for a B and above it must be in the 80-90% range.

 

[Scott Lee]

Pidge...Your mistake was in saying 90% of ALL poolplayers. When you consider all poolplayers (of which B and above account for perhaps 5% of the group) the number is quite low...probably in the 20% range at best. Quality instruction and disciplined practice are the keys to making this a "bread and butter" shot for more people. BTW, for sake of better definition, a stun shot is hit with NO spin of any kind...just a sliding CB...which means it would stop if straight in, and move off on the tangent line if there was any kind of angle. Could be we're just talking about different semantics though.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Honestly? I class it as such a bread and butter shot. The key is to hitting at a consistent firm speed and adjusting the tip position for more stun draw or less stun draw, not keeping the same tip position and adjusting speed for the distance. What would your estimation be? I would say for a B and above it must be in the 80-90% range.

 

[Pidge]

Pidge...Your mistake was in saying 90% of ALL poolplayers. When you consider all poolplayers (of which B and above account for perhaps 5% of the group) the number is quite low...probably in the 20% range at best. Quality instruction and disciplined practice are the keys to making this a "bread and butter" shot for more people. BTW, for sake of better definition, a stun shot is hit with NO spin of any kind...just a sliding CB...which means it would stop if straight in, and move off on the tangent line if there was any kind of angle. Could be we're just talking about different semantics though.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

What do you call a stun-run-through shot then? Stun is a type of shot that travels along the tangent line. So, I can hit with max draw on the cue ball but the cue ball could have no spin at the time of contact and get the cue ball to drift along the tangent line. Asking someone to stun the ball along the tangent line with 6 ft distance between the balls and having no spin all the way is just crazy talk

A stun-run-through is hit at varying points on the cue ball applying various levels of spin. What makes it a stun-run-through is how hard you hit the shot to give the cue ball chance to pick up a tiny bit of follow. Yes, we are talking semantics and perhaps its due to terminology from either side of the pond.