Ebony and Corian

J

josie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an solid ebony forearm that I was going to put white corian points into. Now that I have got the corian machined down to point stock I am realizing that it is heavier than most point stock I use.

My question is do you think an ebony forearm(not cored) with corian points would be too heavy(over 20-21ounces) if I used a mpale handle and aluminum pin?

Thanks in advance for the info.
 
Weigh the corian against a peice of ebony point stock the same size. That should tell you right there. I think you should be fine but I dont have much experience with corian.
 
Are you inlaying the Corian points by CNCing the part and pockets for the forearm ("floating points"), or are you cutting the 90 degree groves in the forearm and gluing in the Corian point stock, later to be turned down ("half spliced")? The former would be lighter than the latter, assuming that the Corian is heavier than the ebony.

I think I made that clear as mud... :embarrassed2:
Mr H
 
josie said:
I have an solid ebony forearm that I was going to put white corian points into. Now that I have got the corian machined down to point stock I am realizing that it is heavier than most point stock I use.

My question is do you think an ebony forearm(not cored) with corian points would be too heavy(over 20-21ounces) if I used a mpale handle and aluminum pin?

Thanks in advance for the info.
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I would scrap the idea all together. Corian can be translucent at it's edge and may look horrible. It also does not glue that well and for points I would say it is a lock they will cause a problem down the line. Most everybody has experimented with Corian at one time or another and you notice you do see it being used. It also has a tendency to crumple and chip. To get a sharp point will be almost impossible and you will be able to see right through it anyway, especially with a dark Ebony under it. You want to build the best cue from the best materials. Corian is far from the best thing you could choose. Why not use Holly?
 
macguy said:
I would scrap the idea all together. Corian can be translucent at it's edge and may look horrible. It also does not glue that well and for points I would say it is a lock they will cause a problem down the line. Most everybody has experimented with Corian at one time or another and you notice you do see it being used. It also has a tendency to crumple and chip. To get a sharp point will be almost impossible and you will be able to see right through it anyway, especially with a dark Ebony under it. You want to build the best cue from the best materials. Corian is far from the best thing you could choose. Why not use Holly?
Click to expand...
mac is right about the translucency
this cue is one i started several months ago
shortly after that , somebody had a thread about corian in cues
i purposely did this, putting the corain over top of black veneer to see if it would show thru at the tips of the butterflies
as you can see, it does

after this experiment, i was just going to scrap this cue or maybe make a jump cue out of it
several people on here and other forums said they thought it was kinda cool
looks like a shadow, hard to see in these pics though
so, i am going ahead with it, but i wont be using corian over a dark color again
i'm not so sure that a lighter color veneer wouldnt show thru either
cross that bridge later
as mac said, the tips of your points will virtually disappear into the ebony, and the corian is extremely brittle when that thin and chips on the edges


ps: haha, i just noticed the bible under the cue
see, even the bible didnt help the translucency problem :wink:
002-17.jpg

005-8.jpg
 
I should have pointed out that I am using a .060" cocobolo veneer in between the corian and ebony. Would that make a difference? The corian seemed to glue up nicely to the cocobolo veneers.
 
Glueing corian to cocobolo sounds like a recipie for disaster and the translucence will still be there.
 
I think I will take your guys advice and just scrap the idea or try it on a forearm not as valuable as ebony. I was trying to match up some points to an ivorine butt cap and joint and that was the whitest thing I could find. I don't think holly would be as white but I have never used it. Does anyone make ivorine point stock? I posted a thread awhile ago on this subject but did not come up with much besides ivory and elforyn which are both pretty expensive.
 
Certain tips for working with Holly, DON'T USE IT.
Okay seriously, be very careful sanding it, it's a magnet for dust, once it's in. It's really in.
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
If you want white that will look good and not drag the black fine dust from the ebony, this is a great way to go. And it glues very well. Reasonably priced also. I am sure you can get them in point stock from here also.
Hope this helps,
Jim Lee

http://www.cuecomponents.com/eltusl.html
Click to expand...

Oops, sorry was going to ask about using it for real ponts but you already covered it.
 
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