Ebony dust

R

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've had this problem for years so it's about time for a cure. Just how do you folks keep ebony dust from being dragged into veneers and inlays when sanding? I blow compressed air onto the cue at all times that I'm sanding and that helps but certainly does not eliminate the problem. Is there a trick that you guys have come up with as I see Ebony and Maple cues all the time that are clean. Just not mine.

Dick
 
Have you tried putting a coat of sealer on before you start sanding? I have found this to help.
Vincent
 
rhncue said:
I've had this problem for years so it's about time for a cure. Just how do you folks keep ebony dust from being dragged into veneers and inlays when sanding? I blow compressed air onto the cue at all times that I'm sanding and that helps but certainly does not eliminate the problem. Is there a trick that you guys have come up with as I see Ebony and Maple cues all the time that are clean. Just not mine.

Dick
Click to expand...

Dick, I use a neutral oil finish before sanding, I apply it with the cue spinning. I allow it to soak in for around one hour. Currently I use Watco Neutral Danish Oil finish. Then after sanding, I wipe the forearm down with Acetone, while the forearm is spinning. The Acetone will break down and remove the surface oil finish and along with it the Ebony dust from sanding.

Last, I apply another coat of Watco Neutral oil finish, this will bring out all the figure of the wood and the colors of the Veneer's. Then I wipe off the excess and allow the cue to sit for 24 hr's before sealing and applying finish.

Dick, there may be other ways of doing this, however, it works well for me, and it is not a complicated process.

Have a nice day!!!!!!!!!!!
 
About all I do is blow it with high pressure air and try not to sand with anything finer than 320. I found 600 grit will produce such a fine dust that it will smear it right into the maple. 320 grit gives a good finish bonding surface.
 
Oil finish makes me nervous for long term adhesion. I spray on a light coat of water based sanding sealer before I do any sanding. Cyno will work, but you have to be care full not to drag color from one wood to another same thing goes for wiping down with acetone.
The point about not using anything finer than 360 is good info, although you have to use something finer with metal rings.
 
I'm still learning but i was taught to sand light to dark never dark to light.I also agree with Chris learned it the same way about 320 grit. I change my sandpaper alot more when i work around phenolics its all about awarness and careful sanding, sealing, sanding and sealing....just my 2 cents
 
rhncue said:
I've had this problem for years so it's about time for a cure. Just how do you folks keep ebony dust from being dragged into veneers and inlays when sanding? I blow compressed air onto the cue at all times that I'm sanding and that helps but certainly does not eliminate the problem. Is there a trick that you guys have come up with as I see Ebony and Maple cues all the time that are clean. Just not mine.

Dick
Click to expand...

I rub on a thin coat of West epoxy. Let dry for 24 hrs. before sanding using 400 grit and compressed air. The epoxy fills up the pores and seals the cue helping it to stay clean. Other sealers will work but since I use the West with 207 hardner for sealing anyway I don't have to worry about compatibiility.
 
I sand with 400, light to dark & the lathe turning. Blow it down & then wipe with mineral spirits, from light to dark & the lathe off. Then, with 400 I sand the dark areas ( with the lathe off) & with the grain. Then with the grain on the light areas. blow down & wipe with mineral spirits( always from joint to wrap). Then repeat with 600. I always do the dark 1st , blow down, wipe & then the light last...JER
 
Is there any reason a Magic Eraser would not work to remove ebony dust?

Good Rolls,
Rasta
 
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