ebony titlist value question.

I talked to brandon today... its going to be wrapless! Simple with hope ring. Not sure about the sticker yet. Ill keep posting pics. Just so you guys know im no cornerstone cues i buy and sell a few cues here and there to raise a little money to add a cue to my small collection. I scored this cue for 370.00 and i dont have the money to send it to a top tier cue maker and wait who knows how long and maybe get the cue back. Being friends with Dave Jacoby who was president of the american cue makers association, ive herd horror stories about some big names you all would be very surprised. (when people get screwed over they turn to the ACA to try and make it right) Jacoby has been around a long time and they have experience in making everything and anything. They will build what no one else will and because the name doesnt add extra thousands to value doesnt mean much to me. that being said

Should i have Dave or Brandon sign it? or leave it unmarked?
 
My 2 cents.
I would want to have mine marked somewhere, maybe consider having them mark it like the Huebler Custom Shop cues on the bottom of the buttcap. That way there is never a question popping up 30 years from now. I would also strongly encourage you to get a COA from them stating it is a one of one. May help a little later.

My take on having Jacoby convert it is: you lost potential value, but will end up with a cue that was custom made to your specs.

In terms of collecting cues, I have found that it is better to save up, even if it takes quite a while, to get something I really want rather than settling on something I can afford right now. Knowing how much the cue would be worth coming out of the shop of a top tier cuemaker would probably have been enough to convince me to sell a couple of my other lesser cues to raise the money to send it off to a top tier maker who you could trust. I hate to say this, bit your cue may not be worth as much after getting it from them as you have into it, even considering the fact that it is an ebony titlist. I have a couple of old cues by lesser cuemakers that were made using Burton Spain 6 point veneered blanks. I am trying to get a top tier maker to "reconvert" them, as their current value is likely less than $1000 each. The blank alone would be worth more than that unconverted. If you plan on having it in your collection until you die, great. If you ever intend to sell it thinking you will make any money on it, you didn't make a wise decision.
Hope it plays lights out.
 
Here it is!!!!!!!!!!! Its coming together quite nicely.

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That AE cue is the NUTZ!!!!!



Just make it yours and don't listen to the pretenders..... Making worthwhile $ in the cue game is not worth the effort.
 
I've heard two crazy outrageous statements in this thread;

1. That Jacoby Custom Cues has a "lack of experience"

and

2. That this cue wont be worth $1000

LMFAO
 
Another pass has been made! Along with the addition of the black fenolic that will support the ivory joint that is riding along on the rubber band.:thumbup:

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Jacoby's are great people

I play some of the Dr. Pool events and have spent time talking to them and "friends are always worth more than money". I am glad you chose your cuemaking friends for this project and I am sure they will produce a cue that you will be proud to own. I am also glad to see you are putting a big pin in it, it will play great!!!

The value of the cue will be irrelevant because I am sure it will never!!! be for sale.
 
jacobyguy said:
I've heard two crazy outrageous statements in this thread;

1. That Jacoby Custom Cues has a "lack of experience"

and

2. That this cue wont be worth $1000

LMFAO
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Haha yeah they may not have the selling power of Richard Black or Barnheart but they make very high quality cues and they are the best possible people to deal with. One time I was talking with Brandon at an event and he remembered me from an event across the country three years prior. You're going to have a beautiful cue that will be made well.
 
Another Pass.........This will be the last picture till the reveal. Love the faded veneers
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jacobyguy said:
Another Pass.........This will be the last picture till the reveal. Love the faded veneers
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The veneers aren't faded. They used a different color scheme from ~1936-1942. They switched it up at wartime to the ones we know as common Titlist veneers.
 
They look like traditional colors to me? And from what I have found the original sticker dates this cue to the late twenties from one source and late twenties to early thirties from another.
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Hi,

Interesting thread for sure.

My two cents:

Dean said do what makes you happy is the best advise!

Jacoby may not be considered a top tier cue making shop because of the production they put out but their quality is very very high. As a cue maker I get to see everyone's shafts spinning between centers a my shop. Everyone's! I can tell you without a bias as I don't know them at all but they produce the straightest and consistent shafts I have every seen. You can't be a great cue shop if you don't make great shafts! Jacoby's know all the secrets in shaft turning and producing consistent work. That speaks volumes to me!

If you have a top tier cue maker do this conversion you may get it for Christmas but that Christmas may be like getting Bozo's Circus tickets in the day. Many many years to wait. Plus you will pay big bucks! If I was to have a top tier maker do a cue for me I would want to have them build me a cue because that is the value of what they do.

One thing you could have done was to leave it alone to represent history of this survivor and over time it would go up in value just hanging it on the wall as is.

Cues that were made 90 years ago were joined using mucilage for glue made from animal renderings. Over time that glue decays and can even be weakened by micro bacteria depending on the climate zone or region it lived in. So you have to question how solid it will play compared to a brand new Hercek or Davis FS. No contest.

Again follow Dean's advice and do what makes you happy. In the end this cue will always be very cool with a history now that has your fingerprints on it. Enjoy your Christmas present.

JMO,

Rick
 
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jacobyguy said:
They look like traditional colors to me? And from what I have found the original sticker dates this cue to the late twenties from one source and late twenties to early thirties from another.
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Mid 30's is when they stopped using the red field eagle decal and switched to the gold Brunswick stickers. You have the same veneers I do, purple, a very figured and deep orange, an impossible to match green, and natural. They were all over the place with colors but that orangey-brown is the smoking gun as to dating it. 1934-1937 or so. It is the best veneer I have ever seen with finish on it.
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi,

Interesting thread for sure.

My two cents:

Dean said do what makes you happy is the best advise!

Jacoby may not be considered a top tier cue making shop because of the production they put out but their quality is very very high. As a cue maker I get to see everyone's shafts spinning between centers a my shop. Everyone's! I can tell you without a bias as I don't know them at all but they produce the straightest and consistent shafts I have every seen. You can't be a great cue shop if you don't make great shafts! Jacoby's know all the secrets in shaft turning and producing consistent work. That speaks volumes to me!

If you have a top tier cue maker do this conversion you may get it for Christmas but that Christmas may be like getting Bozo's Circus tickets in the day. Many many years to wait. Plus you will pay big bucks! If I was to have a top tier maker do a cue for me I would want to have them build me a cue because that is the value of what they do.

One thing you could have done was to leave it alone to represent history of this survivor and over time it would go up in value just hanging it on the wall as is.

Cues that were made 90 years ago were joined using mucilage for glue made from animal renderings. Over time that glue decays and can even be weakened by micro bacteria depending on the climate zone or region it lived in. So you have to question how solid it will play compared to a brand new Hercek or Davis FS. No contest.

Again follow Dean's advice and do what makes you happy. In the end this cue will always be very cool with a history now that has your fingerprints on it. Enjoy your Christmas present.

JMO,

Rick
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Rick, the point about playability seems a little dubious. I have never seen glue fail on a Titlist that wasn't abused or left in awful conditions for decades (even then, just some point lift). The lacquer Brunswick used preserved these beautifully, and the urethane that will close the cue up will continue to preserve it for decades.

Granted, I am a fan of these and am a little biased, but the old wood is impossible to get again in our lifetimes, and the cues are as solid as ever in almost all cases.
 
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Post

cut up the cracked piece of ebony you cut off the bottom and have jacoby cut it in to slices like bacon and laminate it back together to thickness thick enough to make joint protectors.


Rob.M
 
ideologist said:
Rick, the point about playability seems a little dubious. I have never seen glue fail on a Titlist that wasn't abused or left in awful conditions for decades (even then, just some point lift). The lacquer Brunswick used preserved these beautifully, and the urethane that will close the cue up will continue to preserve it for decades.

Granted, I am a fan of these and am a little biased, but the old wood is impossible to get again in our lifetimes, and the cues are as solid as ever in almost all cases.
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I disagree with this statement. Obviously you have not seen a titlist that has been disassembled to be repaired. I have seen several conversions that had buzzes that were impossible to trace only to find out when dissected they had large pockets where glue was actually missing from between the veneers and/or where the points/butt section was joined to the forearm. The glue and construction methods used back then where a far cry from what is being used today. I do agree that a Titlist is a good candidate for a conversion most of the time because of the age of the wood. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.
 
Monstermash said:
I disagree with this statement. Obviously you have not seen a titlist that has been disassembled to be repaired. I have seen several conversions that had buzzes that were impossible to trace only to find out when dissected they had large pockets where glue was actually missing from between the veneers and/or where the points/butt section was joined to the forearm. The glue and construction methods used back then where a far cry from what is being used today. I do agree that a Titlist is a good candidate for a conversion most of the time because of the age of the wood. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.
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I must spread the love around before giving you some more green. This is a great post. This is not as uncommon as you would think.
 
I wasn't going to put more pictures up till the finished product but Im excited about how close it is so ill share. Its drilled for a weight bolt but without weight it looks like its going to be just under 20 oz. when finished

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