Effect of # of inlays and points vs none?

bayoublaster400

bayoublaster400

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm looking at purchasing my first custom cue and was wondering how much (if any) does the amount of inlays and points effect the solid hitting feeling of a cue? If it does effect it in any way, could you explain or give your opinion. Did a search but haven't found anything. If you know of any threads on this subject, please point me in the right direction. Thanks again.
 
IMO When you have v-groove points in the forearm of the cue it will make it stronger and maybe even a little stiffer in the end. I dont know that adding inlays does anything at all for the hit of the cue. I cant tell any diferrence if they do! You will get a lot of views on this!
 
Well I appreciate your response as I'm sure someone who builds them would probably know better than just anyone. I just don't want to have a cue made that would compromise the hit. I'd rather stay away from the glam and glitter if it helps me get a better hitting cue. Maybe after reading your response I should have asked what type of wood produces a more solid hitting cue. One with good feedback. Any opinion a a cuemaker on that? IF not in your opinion what are the key points to a cue that hits solid and has good feedback? Thanks again and sorry for all the additional questions.
 
Well IMO you can make any cue hit solid using most woods out there. I like to use cored Ebony and Cocobolo in the forearms! You can help create diferrent hit depending upon the wood used to core with. I use mainly maple cores in Ebony and Cocobolo and purple heart in most maple forearms. Remember that the hit also depends upon the shaft and the taper of the shaft. Also type of ferule used! Length of feule used and tips. There is a lot of things that changes the hit of the cue. I hope this helps!

Feel free to ask any questions that you have to ensure that you get what you are looking for when you order your cue!! That is why we are here!
 
Patrick knows his stuff, that's for sure. And, he makes one of the handsomest cues in the biz. He also gave a righteous explanation of most of the factors involved.

Another thread talked about the subject of "hit", but I'd like to add my .02 here for anyone that doesn't quite understand what it means.

You ever play baseball? Hit some homers with a Louisville Slugger? And then try it with an aluminum bat? That's hit.

Play golf? Ever had a real, honest to goodness precision made Persimmon driver? And then try some of the metal heads everyone now is using? The first is hit, the second is distance, which is a function of a lot of different things in golf, as it is in pool.

It's kinda like coyote-ugly on a woman you wake up with. You may not be able to describe it, but you'll sure know it when you see it.
 
Misha said:
Patrick knows his stuff, that's for sure. And, he makes one of the handsomest cues in the biz. He also gave a righteous explanation of most of the factors involved.

Another thread talked about the subject of "hit", but I'd like to add my .02 here for anyone that doesn't quite understand what it means.

You ever play baseball? Hit some homers with a Louisville Slugger? And then try it with an aluminum bat? That's hit.

Play golf? Ever had a real, honest to goodness precision made Persimmon driver? And then try some of the metal heads everyone now is using? The first is hit, the second is distance, which is a function of a lot of different things in golf, as it is in pool.

It's kinda like coyote-ugly on a woman you wake up with. You may not be able to describe it, but you'll sure know it when you see it.
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It's kinda like coyote-ugly on a woman you wake up with. You may not be able to describe it, but you'll sure know it when you see it.


Thats is best explanation I have heard! Not to mention funny as hell!!!
 
I really want to thank you guys for your input. As I said for me it's not about looks but about the hit and feedback and now I have a better idea of what woods to incorporate into the cue to better my chances of getting what I'm looking for. And hey, if it turns out looking pleasing to the eye as well, then that's a added bonus!
I completely understand about the sweet feeling you get from using the different bats in baseball too as I played for years and will never forget the effortless feel from a good hit.
Now I'll do a bit more reading and searching on ferule and the different screwed type joints and see what everyone has been most happy with. I know myself that I want a wood joint as that is what I use now and love it. Just want to see what people have opinion wise of the different types of pin joints themselves. I myself don't mind screwing the cue together a few more turns if it will provide a better feedback I'm looking for in a cue.

Doug. In your professional opinion, what shaft taper would you think I should lean towards for the best feedback? Hope you have a web site also as I'm going to check it out as soon as I get another break.
Again thanks to everyone for their input and I'll do a lot more searching so I don't have to ask so many questions.
 
There are a lot of ideas that go into making a great hitting cue .

Some I've heard are

Pau Ferro and Purpleheart play the best .

Ebony cues are dead feeling but look nice .

The butt doesn't matter as long as it doesn't rattle.

It's all about the shaft and the tip. (I'm a believer here)

The tone of the wood is what will make a great hitting cue . The higher the tone the better. I personally have tried this theory and it seem to hold water.
 
hey there,

i know the excitement that you are feeling ordering your first cue. it's a lot of fun

first off, do your research on the maker, there are some great ones, some bad ones, ones w/ long waiting lists, ones w/ short ones, just to name a few points.

re: inlays and points, research on how your maker makes points and if they use veneers.

there are 2 main ways you can make points, either w/ v-grooves or w/ inlays.

some say (which i tend to agree w/, but correct me if i'm wrong) that v grooves makes the cue stronger (as mentioned above), but also helps prevent warping, as the 2 woods are blended together. also, the weight transfer is more gradual, once again, because they're more blended together.

inlayed points won't get razor sharp, for the most part and the feel of the hit will be mostly the forearm/core wood, as the inlays are only a fraction of the way deep.

points for inlays will be exactly even, while v-groove points may be uneven.

there are a ton of post, some more contentious than others, regarding inlayed points vs short/full spliced cues.

also things to consider, core vs no-core. i think many these days are coring their forearms.

purpleheart is denser, therefore, as mentioned earlier, it is often paired w/ maple or other lighter woods, while maple is paired w/ denser woods.

i think others can speak more intelligently about joint types and pin types, as i have only little experience w/ different kinds.

if you want any suggestions, pm me.

good luck!!!
 
In my experience, I've had plain cues, and inlayed ones, short spliced points, and inlayed points, and I believe if the cue is carefully made, it doesn't matter. All types can be very good. Often, a good tip can turn a so so cue into a a very crisp hitter.
 
as the most already shown up before: the whole package will give you *your satisfying* feeling. try out some cues from friends- try to find out what is most comfortable for you! then u re also able to tell your finally found cumaker about the weight, shaft-taper etc. - a good custom-maker just need GOOD and COMPLETE informations about the things your want and prefer. Then he will do finally a great job for your own custom cue. The more input you will give him, the more he will satisfy you in the end.
Like i said before: try out different types and brands. then u will soon see what like.

gl for that:)

Ingo
 
bayoublaster400 said:
I'm looking at purchasing my first custom cue and was wondering how much (if any) does the amount of inlays and points effect the solid hitting feeling of a cue? If it does effect it in any way, could you explain or give your opinion. Did a search but haven't found anything. If you know of any threads on this subject, please point me in the right direction. Thanks again.
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Opposite of this discussion maybe.

I find most cuemakers cues "hit" the same or very similar cue to cue. I recommend trying different cues to find the "right" hit for you. Then go and have that cuemaker make your cue.

I like Rick Howard cues, probably for his shaft taper. I have had him retaper other cuemakers shafts and they played better and gave me the "hit" I was looking for in a playing cue.

JMO

Good luck, your friend in pool,

Ken
 
whatever you do stay away from unilock joints they suck the chrome off hitch balls....stick to piloted and flat faced joints.
 
greyghost said:
whatever you do stay away from unilock joints they suck the chrome off hitch balls....stick to piloted and flat faced joints.
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AMEN to that, brother. A think a whole new thread (from players' perspectives especially) deserves its own thread on this one............
 
First off I want to say say thanks to each and every one of you for your input. It is very much appreciated.

I guess living in South Louisiana has its drawback besides the occasional hurricane. One being that there really isn't any place around here that carries custom cues. I been to numerous places that sell the usual production cues (Mcdermott, Viking, etc.) but no real custom cues to try out to find one that feels right to me, which led me to posting to begin with. If anyone knows of any place in Louisiana that carries ANY make of custom cues, please let me know. I don't mind the drive to the nearest one.
I presently use a upper end Viking cue and like the feel of it but the shaft leaves a lot to be desired. So I going to get my first custom done.

I appreciate the opinions on the choice of woods to use (I've got it narrowed down now!) and I appreciate the opinions on the joints.

I believe I could have made it easier on myself and everyone out there that reponded if I had just asked of a check list for me to fill out prior to contacting a a cuemaker so that I may have most of the info they would need from me to get the process started. Is there any of you who have recently ordered a cue willing to make me a check list of the bare necessities that the cue maker will need from me before I call them?
Here's what I can think of so far:

Forearm
Buttsleeve
Handle
Joint
Pin type
ferule type, length, size
Buttcap
Ringwork
Shaft taper
Tip type

If ya'll can think of anything else I need before I start making phone calls, please let me know.

Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated!!!:smile:
 
bayoublaster400 said:
I really want to thank you guys for your input. As I said for me it's not about looks but about the hit and feedback and now I have a better idea of what woods to incorporate into the cue to better my chances of getting what I'm looking for. And hey, if it turns out looking pleasing to the eye as well, then that's a added bonus!
I completely understand about the sweet feeling you get from using the different bats in baseball too as I played for years and will never forget the effortless feel from a good hit.
Now I'll do a bit more reading and searching on ferule and the different screwed type joints and see what everyone has been most happy with. I know myself that I want a wood joint as that is what I use now and love it. Just want to see what people have opinion wise of the different types of pin joints themselves. I myself don't mind screwing the cue together a few more turns if it will provide a better feedback I'm looking for in a cue.

Doug. In your professional opinion, what shaft taper would you think I should lean towards for the best feedback? Hope you have a web site also as I'm going to check it out as soon as I get another break.
Again thanks to everyone for their input and I'll do a lot more searching so I don't have to ask so many questions.
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Well I like a taper that runs between 11-12"! 12.8m/m shaft! I use a 3/4' ferule with a Moori Med tip on my personal playing cue! That is what really responds the best for me. I also use the radial joint pin too!

Yes my website is up and running. I have a few cues on there to give you some ideas. right now I dont have anything available other than the Curly on Curly that I have posted up on here! Give me a call sometime!
 
bayoublaster400 said:
First off I want to say say thanks to each and every one of you for your input. It is very much appreciated.
Here's what I can think of so far:

Forearm
Buttsleeve
Handle
Joint
Pin type
ferule type, length, size
Buttcap
Ringwork
Shaft taper
Tip type

If ya'll can think of anything else I need before I start making phone calls, please let me know.

Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated!!!:smile:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can improve on that list right now. Dump it. No kidding. Well, why, you may ask?

Well, any maker worth the name already knows 10X what you'll ever know about cues. Even if you start making them now, you'll need 20+ years to catch up. (unless you get some hands on training by a master, then it could be less:wink:

I'm not trying to queer your experience, but it's like picking out a car, and specifying what parts they use in the transmission. Way overkill.

Plus you'll get frustrated, the maker will definitely get frustrated and the whole experience will be a nightmare. Sketch the canvas yes, but let the painter do his thing. That's what he's for, right?

So, IMHO, say what you have now, what extra length torso, arms etc, especially what size hands, and what you like now.......Let him show you some pics, and then <AFTER you actually check him out....most important> then ask HIM to supply some specs, and then ask him WHY this or that and then you give the yea or nay. Sure, I spec my joint, length, weight, balance, tips, tip size and taper, but I've got lots of experience with this. You have none. Give him what you KNOW you like, and discuss the rest.

Plus, this will give you a real idea if you are dealing with a professional or just a guy with a lathe. JMHO and now I'm out of the thread.

Good luck, and I mean it, brother. :rolleyes:
 
Appriciate the thoughts Misha. Good points.

The reason I was making a list is so that when I do call a cuemaker and he asks me what I'm looking for in a cue, I could tell him to the best of my ability. A wish list if you will. I certainly wouldn't dream of telling him how to build a cue. That's his job, not mine and that's what he gets paid the big bucks for. Knowlegde and expertise. On the other hand if I say I want a particular shaft taper or a particular type of wood used on the forearm (cocobola) and another (birdseye) on the wrapless handle I expect him to build it that way unless he tells me it's a bad idea and proceeds to explain why. I also would take any suggestions by him seriously. If he thinks he can improve upon what I think I want then I expect that from him as a craftsman and artist also. I'm not looking at some out of this world cue. Actually probably closer to the opposite and pretty much on the simple side compared to most customs I've looked at.

I'v got it basically as a cocobola forearm (no points or inlays), wrapless birdseye handle section with the buttsleeve cocobola also. I 'd also like to have the cuemaker use his artistic side and use some kind of cocobola inlays in the wrapless handle section. Ring work is his choice and probably most everything else except for my choice of shaft taper and tip. So tomorrow I get to find out (making my first calls) if I'm being unrealistic and I may be in for an eye opening experience. Looking foward to it either way.

Thanks again.
 
bayoublaster400 said:
Appriciate the thoughts Misha. Good points.

The reason I was making a list is so that when I do call a cuemaker and he asks me what I'm looking for in a cue, I could tell him to the best of my ability. A wish list if you will. I certainly wouldn't dream of telling him how to build a cue. That's his job, not mine and that's what he gets paid the big bucks for. Knowlegde and expertise. On the other hand if I say I want a particular shaft taper or a particular type of wood used on the forearm (cocobola) and another (birdseye) on the wrapless handle I expect him to build it that way unless he tells me it's a bad idea and proceeds to explain why. I also would take any suggestions by him seriously. If he thinks he can improve upon what I think I want then I expect that from him as a craftsman and artist also. I'm not looking at some out of this world cue. Actually probably closer to the opposite and pretty much on the simple side compared to most customs I've looked at.

I'v got it basically as a cocobola forearm (no points or inlays), wrapless birdseye handle section with the buttsleeve cocobola also. I 'd also like to have the cuemaker use his artistic side and use some kind of cocobola inlays in the wrapless handle section. Ring work is his choice and probably most everything else except for my choice of shaft taper and tip. So tomorrow I get to find out (making my first calls) if I'm being unrealistic and I may be in for an eye opening experience. Looking foward to it either way.

Thanks again.
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There is nothing unrealistic about what your looking for! That is one of the good things about this forum. You can get all the info you could possibly want and take it to the builder of your choice. This will certainly help you get what you are looking for in the end.
So far from what you are looking for here isnt any problem at all to get!!!
 
This is a very helpful thread. The OP has asked all of the questions that I have always wondered.

I wonder if you guys could elaborate a bit on this question:

If you had a plain jane (say, in cocobolo) and a sneaky pete (also say cocobolo) from the same custom cuemaker, with the same tip, ferrule, shaft taper, shaft wood, and joint....how different or similiar would the hit be? To put it another way, once you control for all of the things like joint, shaft, etc that control hit, how different would these two type of butts from the same cuemaker feel? Maybe work in cored plane jane vs. uncored if that is necessary to fully explain.

Thanks in advance for the info.
 
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