Epoxy finish question

X-74 is an extremely clear, tough, high gloss surface coating formulated to produce a deep glass like appearance in a single layer on a sealed surface.
Doesn't sound too promising with wood to me.
West with 207C hardener is what I'd recommend.
I've tried a lot of them. BSI, System 3. marine laminating epoxies etc.
 
JoeyInCali said:
X-74 is an extremely clear, tough, high gloss surface coating formulated to produce a deep glass like appearance in a single layer on a sealed surface.
Doesn't sound too promising with wood to me.
West with 207C hardener is what I'd recommend.
I've tried a lot of them. BSI, System 3. marine laminating epoxies etc.
Click to expand...

Hey Joey,
Also says Two or more layers are often applied for added depth and protection.
Just exploring some ideas. I do like the finish on your cues :thumbup:
 
BENFICA said:
Hey Joey,
Also says Two or more layers are often applied for added depth and protection.
Just exploring some ideas. I do like the finish on your cues :thumbup:
Click to expand...

DUH! Monday Morning reading blues.
I say still go with West 207C.
You will most like use West epoxy for other jobs anyway.
206 hardener for the other applications.
This way you will have spouts readily available .
And with a gram scale, you can do the jobs easily and economically.
 
epoxy finish

Hi Tony- I like the TAP Plastics stuff. Easy to apply- I pad it on on the lathe...about 3 coats, sand and buff. It's not auto clear but it's not bad, and it's non-toxic.
I have some BSI finish-coat epoxy drying right now. It looks extremely clear: it doesn't obscure the figure in dark-colored wood. I'll sand and buff, and if it's shiny enough, that's it. If not, I'll give it a coat of....something. CA? We'll see.
I tried the West System for finish but...look, I know my eyes are bad,...it seemed to have a blue/purple cast to it and was not as clear as I wanted.
 
Last edited:
carguy said:
Hi Tony- I like the TAP Plastics stuff. Easy to apply- I pad it on on the lathe...about 3 coats, sand and buff. It's not auto clear but it's not bad, and it's non-toxic.
I have some BSI finish-coat epoxy drying right now. It looks extremely clear: it doesn't obscure the figure in dark-colored wood. I'll sand and buff, and if it's shiny enough, that's it. If not, I'll give it a coat of....something. CA? We'll see.
I tried the West System for finish but...look, I know my eyes are bad,...it seemed to have a blue/purple cast to it and was not as clear as I wanted.
Click to expand...

Let me know how everything goes. The TAP Epoxy is $197.00 for 2 gallons and did not want to drop off that type of cash on something that might not work out. They have the same epoxy without UV protection, but not looking forward to try that one.
 
TAP epoxy

The TAP finish epoxy I have I purchased in 1980 (yes, '80. How time flies). It is in 8oz bottles, mixes 1:1, and does not mention UV at all. So I'll guess it's not the same product. I hope the cue doesn't start molting the first time I have it in the sun.
It is very clear and very shiny. I like it a lot.
 
west system

JoeyInCali said:
X-74 is an extremely clear, tough, high gloss surface coating formulated to produce a deep glass like appearance in a single layer on a sealed surface.
Doesn't sound too promising with wood to me.
West with 207C hardener is what I'd recommend.
I've tried a lot of them. BSI, System 3. marine laminating epoxies etc.
Click to expand...

I have heard that west system with 207 will yellow. Is that true??

I did put it on a cue and it turned out great.

Kim
 
I have never tried it myself, but have had customers tell me it is pretty good. Never buy that much finish as it the hardener might go bad on you before you ever use it. Ask for who sells it in smaller quantities like a quart.
 
I read up on the use instructions. It has a lot of information that applies to most epoxy finishes. At least they give the best info I've seen for tips on how to use their product. I have tried a few epoxies, been surprised and disapointed many times, Too many variables, humidity, temp, and then too long of a dry time, plus the air bubbles 2 hours after applying, etc. Now am only using a waterbased finish with matching sealer in a dip tank
Dave.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top