A few days ago I finished a cue with epoxy. It has been several days now and the cue is still alittle tacky to the touch. It has been in my basement so it is somewhat cool down there. Does this have any bearing on the drying time. I mixed the epoxy correctly, and it seams to have done fine other than it not feeling completly dry. Also wondering if I should put some cyno on for a top coat of clear or should I just let the epoxy stand on its own. Any input would be of great help. Any tips on sanding?
epoxy finish
- Thread starter seahorse1877
- Start date
sometimes i apply epoxy , 20 minute finish cure from prathers,
out in the shop, it's hot out there
sometimes i do it in the house with a/c
i've found that it dries much faster in the a/c
after i spread epoxy on cue, i hit it with a blowdryer on low heat
helps level it out a lot
It sounds like you did not mix the epoxy correctly. It should have dried hard as a rock overnight. If that's the case, it may NEVER dry...JER
Jer is correct. What was left in the pot may have still cured as a larger amount generates heat to help set the epoxy.When mixing for finish coats it must be correct or else the thin film will not properly cure. Some epoxies will not properly cure when the room temp is below 58 F
You can try placing the cue in a low humidity enviroment at 100 f or so and see if it will continue to cure and harden up.
My feeling is that the best option is to take it off and start again.
If epoxy thinner dissolves or softens up the resin, then you know for sure it was mixed wrong, not the correct ratio or not stirred long enough.
Neil
Where are you located? Do you have high humidity? Even in a cool basement it may still be higher humidity but you won't feel it as much due to the cooler temp, which will make for a lot longer dry time. I have used Finish-cure and system 3 and have had both at times, take as much as 3 days for the tackyness to go away. Finish cure actually recomends heating to 85 degrees before using it. http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/epoxies.html#finishcure
I measure, then mix carefully for about 3 minutes, then place under a 60 watt lamp and heat it for about 4-5 minutes to 1) eliminate any air bubbles created from mixing 2) It seems to make it 'loose' which makes it spread better 3) shorten the set time.
Good luck,
Dave
I measure, then mix carefully for about 3 minutes, then place under a 60 watt lamp and heat it for about 4-5 minutes to 1) eliminate any air bubbles created from mixing 2) It seems to make it 'loose' which makes it spread better 3) shorten the set time.
Good luck,
Dave
I just finished glueing up a butt this afternoon, pretty warm in shop and my 30 minute was setting up pretty quick. I like the idea of the blow dryer but I would take it easy. Also note that I use 20 min. epoxy to glue my points in and seal the cue before I spray it a good poly clear coat. It has taken up to 3 days for that 20 minute to dry for me already but I was building up in Minnesota and the shop would only get up to high 50's in winter. Good luck
Joe Trombetta:smile:
Joe Trombetta:smile:
Are you using an off the shelf 1 to 1 mix epoxy? If so that is probably your problem.
I only use the bobby smith outlaw stuff out of texas. It seals the cue so you don't feel the dash rings or inlays with your hands running across the cue with your eyes closed. Anyone have any better stuff, open for sugestions also. By the way is everybody just finishing their cues with epoxy now days or are we still using poly also?
Thanks
Joe T
Thanks
Joe T
The Bob Smith 2 part epox is OK for alot of things. LIke has bee mentioned mixing is important. For the Bob Smith epoxy I use syringes , 1 for the resin and another for the hardner. The max I mix is 20 cc at a time. For the smaller amounts I use the 2 cc syringes from a local vet.
Another epoxy that makes a nice inish is the West Sysytem with the finish cure hardner.
For West Sytems epoxies I use a .01 gram scale and weigh the ratio's. I just pour out the hardner then use the calculator , set the scale add the correct amount of hardner. I use a syringe for the hardner to make it easy getting a small drop. The drops can be from .03 gram to .1 gram depending on the diameter of the orifice making the drop.
Neil
Another epoxy that makes a nice inish is the West Sysytem with the finish cure hardner.
For West Sytems epoxies I use a .01 gram scale and weigh the ratio's. I just pour out the hardner then use the calculator , set the scale add the correct amount of hardner. I use a syringe for the hardner to make it easy getting a small drop. The drops can be from .03 gram to .1 gram depending on the diameter of the orifice making the drop.
Neil
neil,
Where do you get this stuff at and how spendy is it? Are you still spraying clear coat afterwards?
Thanks
Joe T
Where do you get this stuff at and how spendy is it? Are you still spraying clear coat afterwards?
Thanks
Joe T
im not positive, but i think the 20 minute finish cure is the same as the bs industries epoxy
just relabled???????
http://www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=55&ITEM_ID=5709
I get the Bob Smith Resin from a local model shop that has model plane supplies etc.
The West system I get from a boat building supply place. I use 105 resin with the 207 finish hardner.
I have finished cues in both the Bob Smith resin and the West Sytem. The Bob Smith cures quicker than the west to touch but still takes 24 hs to properly set.
To coat a handle , 1st coat uses about 5 to 6 cc mixed resin. But the next coat is about 3cc . I mix 6cc with the Bobsmith and with the west I mix by weight about 7 grams.
These are not as hard as an Automotive spray finish, and are not as shiny , but there is less health hazards. But epoxies are poisonous and you really do need ventalation and care when using alot of them or when using everyday. If you mix a little once in a while the exposure is low. Epoxy poisoning is not to be taken lightly and the best best cure is prevention. Polyester resins have a strong smell and the danger seems obvious, but alot f epoxies have very little odour and people make the mistake that it is safe. Just a caution for you.I try to mix slowly to reduce the amont of air bubbles in the resin.
Neil
The West system I get from a boat building supply place. I use 105 resin with the 207 finish hardner.
I have finished cues in both the Bob Smith resin and the West Sytem. The Bob Smith cures quicker than the west to touch but still takes 24 hs to properly set.
To coat a handle , 1st coat uses about 5 to 6 cc mixed resin. But the next coat is about 3cc . I mix 6cc with the Bobsmith and with the west I mix by weight about 7 grams.
These are not as hard as an Automotive spray finish, and are not as shiny , but there is less health hazards. But epoxies are poisonous and you really do need ventalation and care when using alot of them or when using everyday. If you mix a little once in a while the exposure is low. Epoxy poisoning is not to be taken lightly and the best best cure is prevention. Polyester resins have a strong smell and the danger seems obvious, but alot f epoxies have very little odour and people make the mistake that it is safe. Just a caution for you.I try to mix slowly to reduce the amont of air bubbles in the resin.
Neil
Thanks for the info.
Joe try devcon 2 ton, mix well 24 hours should be rock hard. i tried other epoxy some were not hard a week later. the best 2 ton devcon is the one that havent sat on the self a long time you can tell by the resin it will be yellow if its older. the newer will be more clear, some color as the harder. the clearer the better if you are doing a cue with white veneers. i bought some super glue gel once it was so old there was 0 glue in it not one drop. Jeff O
Epoxy Finishes worst enemy is cold and not stiring enough. You may just need to wet sand the surface with 600 grit and let it sit a few more days in a worm environment. Sometimes they build up a film of hardner on the surface and the underneathe part is actually dryer. Either way opening up the surface like that with 600 grit will help what is underneath to breathe and continue drying, if it will ever dry. Sometimes it won't and you just have to peel it all off and start over.
Just my pointers on epoxy in general, some of which has been covered.
My experience is with West, as well as Petit Poly-Poxy (no longer available, but great stuff) and the Devcon et al from Homo-Depot and Blowes...
1) ALWAYS mix with a scale you trust.
2) With West (the one I use) I always err on the side of extra hardener (NOT A LOT), rather than the other way. I also use the slow hardener, rather than the other two, for additional pot life. If you are using 5 or 20 minute epoxy, you are cutting it close to mix thoroughly, and allow time to react before application (see #3)
3) Allow time for the epoxy to react. Mixing is important, and for a good amount of time (2-5 minutes, dependent on volume mixed- more volume, more time) BUT, what is often overlooked is that you are well-served to allow the epoxy time to begin to react in the pot before application. After mixing for several minutes, I allow it to sit in the cup for a few, and then mix it a second time to ensure complete intermixing of the components.
4) ALWAYS a new, clean mixing cup and stick every time! If there is trace of un-mixed resin or hardener in your cup from the last batch, it will throw off your ratios, and could give you a bad batch. Always use the same brand/type of cup and stick too if you can.
5) ALWAYS save the cup and stirrer after mixing. DON'T just chuck it after you mix it! I always save the cup with stirrer to ENSURE every batch I mix up hardens completely. There is no other way to know- if you chuck the cup, where is your reference sample? In the land fill. Not much good there!
Many epoxies will get a 'film' on them, even when mixed properly. It is a chemical reaction, so there are by-products. Allowing it to sit in the pot for a couple minutes before using often alleviates this film, but not always. If you (or I) get a film, I will do an Acetone wash-down to ensure it is fully cured. This will pull the film (and any uncured resins) from the surface. If it is still tacky, or shows striations of low spots (where you pulled resin up) you have to strip it and start all over again...
My experience is with West, as well as Petit Poly-Poxy (no longer available, but great stuff) and the Devcon et al from Homo-Depot and Blowes...
1) ALWAYS mix with a scale you trust.
2) With West (the one I use) I always err on the side of extra hardener (NOT A LOT), rather than the other way. I also use the slow hardener, rather than the other two, for additional pot life. If you are using 5 or 20 minute epoxy, you are cutting it close to mix thoroughly, and allow time to react before application (see #3)
3) Allow time for the epoxy to react. Mixing is important, and for a good amount of time (2-5 minutes, dependent on volume mixed- more volume, more time) BUT, what is often overlooked is that you are well-served to allow the epoxy time to begin to react in the pot before application. After mixing for several minutes, I allow it to sit in the cup for a few, and then mix it a second time to ensure complete intermixing of the components.
4) ALWAYS a new, clean mixing cup and stick every time! If there is trace of un-mixed resin or hardener in your cup from the last batch, it will throw off your ratios, and could give you a bad batch. Always use the same brand/type of cup and stick too if you can.
5) ALWAYS save the cup and stirrer after mixing. DON'T just chuck it after you mix it! I always save the cup with stirrer to ENSURE every batch I mix up hardens completely. There is no other way to know- if you chuck the cup, where is your reference sample? In the land fill. Not much good there!
Many epoxies will get a 'film' on them, even when mixed properly. It is a chemical reaction, so there are by-products. Allowing it to sit in the pot for a couple minutes before using often alleviates this film, but not always. If you (or I) get a film, I will do an Acetone wash-down to ensure it is fully cured. This will pull the film (and any uncured resins) from the surface. If it is still tacky, or shows striations of low spots (where you pulled resin up) you have to strip it and start all over again...