I fail to see how a pocketed ball wears at the facing, only missed ones.
Then you still have a lot to learn, as it's the POCKETED balls that cut through the cloth against the facings....not the MISSED balls....do some more R&D!

I fail to see how a pocketed ball wears at the facing, only missed ones.
and yet again my questions go without an answer. So OK these are two diamond tables that you maintain. You did them before etc. Why didn't you fix this situation before??????
John, I don't need any gage to tell me what works for facingsI have 26 years experience in this area
Look, let me give you an example. Pool Sharks in Vegas has 2 Diamond 9ft ProAm's. The both get a hell of a lot of play. One of the tables is located in the pit area, the other one is located in the upper first row of tables. In about a 6 month period, with Simonis 860 Tour Blue cloth, I recovered the tables again. Now, at the time of recovery, the table in the pit had 3/16th's neoprene for facings, and the table in the first row had 1/8th" neoprene facings. The table in the pit still had perfect cloth in the pockets, while the table with the 1/8th's facings had cut through both sides of the corner pocket facings in all 4 corner pockets. While recovering both tables, I changed the 1/8th" facings out for 3/16th's ones. 9 months later, I recovered both the tables again, only this time, neither one of the tables had any cut cloth in the corner pockets.
I don't buy facings from anyone, I buy them from rubber dealers. You can buy neoprene from 3' or 4' wide rolls by the running foot. Per running foot you get about 12 sets of facings, at a cost of about $8 to $10 a running foot, that makes puts your sets of facings at under a $1 a set.
Glen
I am curious to know why each Diamond table had different facings to begin with.
Yeap I am the reason Diamond is in existence in the first place.
ok here is a pic from a right handed player, guy even started to break from the other end of the table. 1P tables are worn at the bottom left and right foot rails from cross corner banks. In another thread I asked about stretching cloth, where it stetches the most and how it affects things etc. I have a way for testing cloth to see how tight it is when its on the table. I do love trying to figure things out. I am trying to help by getting facts. IE; what is the proper amount of stretch for Simonis.
IMO balls that hit the points are NOT on target and that is why there is so much wear there. More times than not a ball hitting the point will not go in. It will take more than another blanket statement from you saying I am wrong to change my mind. I am just a hack, using mechanical shims instead of wood ones, using the most accurate levels, setting up tables with nothing in the seams, making billiard plugs, converting to snooker, designing adjustable rails, making custom tools, using tac strips etc. Yeap I am the reason Diamond is in existence in the first place. Still waiting for a complete answer to my original questions.
Note: I agree with your facings but only for now
Different production dates, as Diamond started with the 1/8" facings, then after seeing the problems with the cloth cutting in the pockets, switched to 3/16"s so the tables didn't have the same to begin with. It's no different with any other table manufacture, except Gabriels, their 9ft comes with 3/8"s thick neoprene facings. Any table with 1/8" facings with extended play will cut through the facing cloth on the foot end rail facings sooner or later, it's just a matter of time and play. The reason the end rail corner facings cut through the cloth first is because more balls are pocketed in the foot corner pockets than the head corner pockets for one, then balls made on the break go into the foot corner pockets harder than the head corner pockets, and then because balls are shot harder into the corner pockets from down the length of the table which are pocketed first by the object balls caroming off the end rail pocket facings then into the pockets. Balls shot cross table are not often pocketed as hard, and balls shot straight into the pockets have no effect on the facings.
John....study the tables you work on for your R&D. If you look close enough, you should be able to tell what kind of game is played most, and if it's played mostly by one person...if they're left or right handed!!!
Glen
Looks like Diamond didn't do any R&D on the pocket facings.:frown:
Normally table manufactures don't care about how a table wears AFTER it's been sold and delivered, just look at the facings on ANY pool table out here, they're almost ALL fit with 1/8" facings, that dry out, crack, and crumble over time. So, I'd be safe in making the statement that Diamond DOES care about the wear and tear on their tables even AFTER the customer has bought their table, it's called evolution! The Diamond tables have evolved way beyond that of all other tables, and CONTINUE to evolved, getting better and better...based on feedback, which is the basis of change and improvement
Glen
I applaud businesses that improve their products for the benefit of the customer. I am sure that retrofitting all those tables in the field is big job for them. I also applaud any business that does research in their endeavor of evolving the product into something customers find to added value. Innovative ideas and doing things in a better way is the correct way to stay alive in todays business world. Just ask General Motors.
snooker tables don't have facings, now after all this time you guys are starting to talk about what I am asking. What is the job of the facing?
Glen 1-8 facings on GC V are too hard as well as others. What does the facing really do besides clean up the two ends of wood and rubber as one? Shouldn't the facings perform just as the rubber?
Time to start thinking
Did I read there was a recall for this?
John...I can't believe you even made this statment!![]()
If thats the case then the facings should be made from gum rubber with the same durometer as the rails.