finish questions

manwon said:
Don't be so sensitive Mike, I was only asking a question!!!!;) All you had to do was answer it one way or the other. My question was neither sarcastic or derogatory in any way, unlike your reply.

Mike questions are never stupid only answers, and yours certainly qualifies for that title, no disrespect intended, but I think you need to lighten up a little.
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Very sorry if I took your question the wrong way, where it has been discussed before and your no stranger to the forum I automatically figured you knew and was just trying to be funny.
As far as super glue and 5 minute epoxy being used in cues, I truly feel anyone using it is taking a shortcut on quality, I feel finish is also a part of the construction so it would also apply there also. Just my opinion but it's what I believe to be true.
Porper lathes are designed to do repairs but with a few modifications they can be very accurate machines that can do so much more. I rebuilt mine on a dare because certain individuals in my past said it couldn't be done. I use a machine shop that knows absolutely nothing about this industry. Mine run as efficient as my South Bends, If Joe wasn't so tight I would give him the changes in trade for a machine but that will never happen.
 
Michael Webb said:
Very sorry if I took your question the wrong way, where it has been discussed before and your no stranger to the forum I automatically figured you knew and was just trying to be funny.
As far as super glue and 5 minute epoxy being used in cues, I truly feel anyone using it is taking a shortcut on quality, I feel finish is also a part of the construction so it would also apply there also. Just my opinion but it's what I believe to be true.
Porper lathes are designed to do repairs but with a few modifications they can be very accurate machines that can do so much more. I rebuilt mine on a dare because certain individuals in my past said it couldn't be done. I use a machine shop that knows absolutely nothing about this industry. Mine run as efficient as my South Bends, If Joe wasn't so tight I would give him the changes in trade for a machine but that will never happen.
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Thanks for the reply Mike, I truly did intend to cause you any problems. I also have a Porper B Lathe that is why I asked, the question. If you would be interested in sell a copy of the plans for an upgrade I would interested.

Billy Webb, told me he thought that you used one but he did not know if you had modified it.

Again sorry for the misunderstanding, and have a great night.
 
QMAKER said:
Hello;

Since Joey let the "secret" finish out-of-the-bag I might as well come clean and tell you how it is done, at least my way:

You will need 2 gallons of EM-TECH Polycarbonate Urethane (EM9300) and 1 quart of Ultra Seal WB (3000). Both of these products are water based.
www.targetcoatings.com. Cost is about $100. This will finish about 100 cues.

Next make a 35" dipping container, exactly like one you would use for Nelsonite. No, you cannot use the same one. Make sure your container is clean. Strain 1 gallon of the EM9300 thru a strainer into the tube. Add 1 pint of distilled water (about 10-15% water to EM9300). Make absolutely sure there is no grit floating on the top. Use more 9300 to top tank to within 3" of top. Cover the container when not in use.

Prepare your cue:
Sand down to 400 grit. If you want to POP the grain use my secret oil mixture. 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 spar varnish. Wipe it on
and rub it in like French polish until you are satisfied. If necessary smooth out with 000 or 0000 steel wool, with the grain. You can skip the secret sauce oil if the cue does not need POPPING, like ebony.

Next, using cheese cloth, apply the Ultra Seal by rubbing it into the cue. Keep applying until you have a level surface. Keep rubbing to fill and keep the surface flat. Usually 2 or 3 rubbings will do the trick. Do the steel wool thing again. Wipe the cue down with denatured alcohol or a watered moist paper towel.

Blow both ends off with compressed air. YOU MUST KEEP ALL DIRT OUT OF YOUR DIPPING TANK.

Screw an adapter on to the joint pin that you can hold on to. A dowel, the same size as the joint, with a cup hook in it is perfect. Make sure it is clean.
Put a plug in your bumper cap. Check your dipping tank to make sure there are no bubbles on the surface. If there is, use a CLEAN stick to break them up. Slowly lower your cue into the tank until it is completely covered. Then slowly lift it out and hang it by the hook.

Wait 30 minutes and look at your cue. It should begin to look like it is encased in glass. Do not touch the cue surface. Wait another 30 minutes and dip again. Watch out for bubbles floating on the top of the tank. Wait 1 hour and dip again. That should do it. If it not perfect, like a glass cylinder,
wait 1 day and sand LIGHTLY with 400 grit on a sponge block-with the grain.
Repeat the process above. Generally speaking, the cue should not even need to be polished. If it does wait at least 3 days, 5 days is better.

The butt of the cue will accumulate more finish than is needed. Let it harden for 3 days, at least and file it flat. EM9300 will not stick to metal unless it has been CA'd or System 3'd first. You can apply 9300 directly over CA or System 3.

Good luck and send me a PM if you need more info.

JOEY, do not tell them about the super, top secret, shaft material.

Bob Flynn
www.denalicues.com
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Anyone else try this finish water based finish?
 
QMAKER said:
Hello;

Since Joey let the "secret" finish out-of-the-bag I might as well come clean and tell you how it is done, at least my way:

You will need 2 gallons of EM-TECH Polycarbonate Urethane (EM9300) and 1 quart of Ultra Seal WB (3000). Both of these products are water based.
www.targetcoatings.com. Cost is about $100. This will finish about 100 cues.

Next make a 35" dipping container, exactly like one you would use for Nelsonite. No, you cannot use the same one. Make sure your container is clean. Strain 1 gallon of the EM9300 thru a strainer into the tube. Add 1 pint of distilled water (about 10-15% water to EM9300). Make absolutely sure there is no grit floating on the top. Use more 9300 to top tank to within 3" of top. Cover the container when not in use.

Prepare your cue:
Sand down to 400 grit. If you want to POP the grain use my secret oil mixture. 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 spar varnish. Wipe it on
and rub it in like French polish until you are satisfied. If necessary smooth out with 000 or 0000 steel wool, with the grain. You can skip the secret sauce oil if the cue does not need POPPING, like ebony.

Next, using cheese cloth, apply the Ultra Seal by rubbing it into the cue. Keep applying until you have a level surface. Keep rubbing to fill and keep the surface flat. Usually 2 or 3 rubbings will do the trick. Do the steel wool thing again. Wipe the cue down with denatured alcohol or a watered moist paper towel.

Blow both ends off with compressed air. YOU MUST KEEP ALL DIRT OUT OF YOUR DIPPING TANK.

Screw an adapter on to the joint pin that you can hold on to. A dowel, the same size as the joint, with a cup hook in it is perfect. Make sure it is clean.
Put a plug in your bumper cap. Check your dipping tank to make sure there are no bubbles on the surface. If there is, use a CLEAN stick to break them up. Slowly lower your cue into the tank until it is completely covered. Then slowly lift it out and hang it by the hook.

Wait 30 minutes and look at your cue. It should begin to look like it is encased in glass. Do not touch the cue surface. Wait another 30 minutes and dip again. Watch out for bubbles floating on the top of the tank. Wait 1 hour and dip again. That should do it. If it not perfect, like a glass cylinder,
wait 1 day and sand LIGHTLY with 400 grit on a sponge block-with the grain.
Repeat the process above. Generally speaking, the cue should not even need to be polished. If it does wait at least 3 days, 5 days is better.

The butt of the cue will accumulate more finish than is needed. Let it harden for 3 days, at least and file it flat. EM9300 will not stick to metal unless it has been CA'd or System 3'd first. You can apply 9300 directly over CA or System 3.

Good luck and send me a PM if you need more info.

JOEY, do not tell them about the super, top secret, shaft material.

Bob Flynn
www.denalicues.com
Click to expand...

Very cool! Thanks for the info! about... The butt of the cue will accumulate more finish than is needed. Are you talking about the finish creating a buldge or lip at the edge of the butt cap? Thanks again Bob for the info...:thumbup:
 
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Hi,

I am sticking to a High Solids Polyurethane Automotive clear coat finish. If you follow the safety rules you will be fine.

Thousands of professionals have been spraying forever, if they were getting sick the EPA would take products off the market.

If you have a pro booth with the spark proof fan motor and wear and maintain the proper mask you won't have any trouble.

Spraying cues is not like spraying a car. The volume is very little for a short duration.

Rick G
 
its good you clarified your question with "water-based" and not "water-born" as the 2 are different. i've tried water-based finishes and it has some unique problems that became frustrating to quit using them. the end results for me was a slight cloudy or opaque finish and the color of the woods was never as prominent as with other finishes. polishing was a seperate challenge on its own because the heat up quick. the stuff seems to work good on an assembly line with kitchen cabinets, i had a hard time with it though.
 
avscue said:
its good you clarified your question with "water-based" and not "water-born" as the 2 are different. i've tried water-based finishes and it has some unique problems that became frustrating to quit using them. the end results for me was a slight cloudy or opaque finish and the color of the woods was never as prominent as with other finishes. polishing was a seperate challenge on its own because the heat up quick. the stuff seems to work good on an assembly line with kitchen cabinets, i had a hard time with it though.
Click to expand...

Here is a picture of one of my water based finished cues. It is the clearest, best finish I have ever seen. I have learned how to use it and it is from a health standpoint the best thing ever to happen to cuemakers.
 

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HUH!!!..WOW!! i' amazed. i bow to your superiorty sir ARNOT,(i'm not worthy,i'm not worthy). that is not what i came up with. it looks great! i must have got (or wasn't smart enough to use) the wrong stuff. i used a product from van-woods in wisconson. who did you use (if you don't mind)? do you find that the rosewoods seem to turn more brown than red? well, anyway, joking aside your the first i've seen to have a quallity finish with water-based finishes.
 
Deleted for content in an out dated thread.
 
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