I switched to UV from epoxy.
It is super fast, and hard
A little pricey to get into, but so far I love it
Finishing Methods...
- Thread starter Zims Rack
- Start date
I switched to UV from epoxy.
It is super fast, and hard
A little pricey to get into, but so far I love it
Uv
I've been thinking about UV and I followed your progress with great interest. This may well be the way I go. I like that fast and hard part.
Meanwhile, I'm looking around. A very hard, fast drying dipped finish certainly sounds appealing.
Robin Snyder
I've been thinking about UV and I followed your progress with great interest. This may well be the way I go. I like that fast and hard part.
Meanwhile, I'm looking around. A very hard, fast drying dipped finish certainly sounds appealing.
Robin Snyder
Joey, that stuff sounds great but I'd like to leave toxic aerosols out of the picture if I can. That's the big downside to UV and catalyst-based sprays. I spent decades around toxic substances in the auto industry in the bad old days when people routinely took absolutely no precautions with them, so I'm trying to keep it on the natch as much as possible. I get it that the stuff is very safe if proper precautions are taken but I'd just as soon sidestep the whole issue if I can.
Having said that, I sense a change on the horizon for my finish technique and I have a feeling that some sort of aerosol finish system is in my near future.
Robin Snyder
Having said that, I sense a change on the horizon for my finish technique and I have a feeling that some sort of aerosol finish system is in my near future.
Robin Snyder
Quick question for all you 'dippers' out there.
Are you taping the wrap groove, cutting it after the finish is applied
or painting that too and sanding it to size?
I don't dip, just curious.
KJ
PS, Thanx for the DC2000 link Joey.
I just recently bought another gal. of my usual but
when that's gone I'm trying the 2000.
Cooking/heat costs money.
Are you taping the wrap groove, cutting it after the finish is applied
or painting that too and sanding it to size?
I don't dip, just curious.
KJ
PS, Thanx for the DC2000 link Joey.
I just recently bought another gal. of my usual but
when that's gone I'm trying the 2000.
Cooking/heat costs money.
One thing you have to remember when using these fast drying clears is dry back. The faster they dry means the more the dry back. The shine on these fast dry clears will dull in a short amount of time. You will have to re-polish them again and again. I suggest using something other than a fast dry clear. I have tried just about them all.
IF anyone is willing to share, I too would LOVE to know what finish yall are using that you are dipping with. So far that is my biggest obstacle that I can't seem to overcome. I gladly accept PM's if you don't want it posted in public. :grin:
I've been brushing on Ceramathane but for the most part, not having much success, but still practing and getting better each time.
Spot on. They also tend to shrink. The fast finish is done by having the top of the finish skim over. Shrinking isn't a big deal on a car. With any finish there are trade offs. You have to pick what works for you. Also, beware finish advice from people whose finishes and techniques haven't been in the market place at least 5 years. What looks good today, may not be so wonderfull down the road.
KJ,
I have taped the wrap groove off and dipped both ways as well as cut in the wrap groove after the entire butt was finished. Honestly, I don't have a preference but most of my cues are wrapless anyways.
Alan
shrinkage
That is what I mean what I say dry back Steve. That is what we called in the body shops.
The slower the dry the longer it will stay looking good.
That is what I mean what I say dry back Steve. That is what we called in the body shops.
The slower the dry the longer it will stay looking good.
Flexibility
Joey is this finish flexible enough for cues>
Joey is this finish flexible enough for cues>
He doesn't dip those.