Joe....you certainly could not go wrong with one of Keith Josey's cues...especially if you like that barstick feel...like a one piece. His SP's replicate that feel very very well. If you have an interest, definitely give them a call. They generally have a few already completed SP's at the shop most times, I believe. They can be reached at 800-514-CUES. Best to call on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays, as they also teach martial arts and can be unavailable on Mondays and Wednesdays. Sometimes they can be caught at the shop on Saturdays as well. Super nice folks.
Okay...let's clear up the wood2wood confusion. Basically, a wood2wood joint is one that the primary contact surfaces of the joint are wood. Now, this can be an all wood2wood joint...such as your traditional sneaky pete...where the joint is meant to not be apparent, and replicate a one piece barstick look. Some break with these, some don't.
The most commonly seen wood2wood joint is where there is a phenolic ring collar on the outside (sleeve) and the wood interior. The thought here is that the phenolic ring collar helps to absorb and spread evenly some of the kinetic energy flowing through the joint at the time of impact, and thereby lessens the stresses on the wood itself.
I also have a cue with a wood2wood joint that has a 1/2" stainless steel sleeve. Basically looks like a stainless steel jointed cue, but with the wood2wood feel...with a kick! LoL!
I should mention that the most common pins used in a wood2wood jointed cue will be 3/8-10, 3/8-11 (commonly known as the SW pin), and the Radial. Keith uses Radial pins in his cues...it provides for a generally stiff hitting cue, as will the 3/8-11. I have seen Leon Sly use all three type pins in his cues...if that helps.
Pricing of custom SP-type cues can vary from $200 to well over $1000...just depends who the maker is, and also if they are crafting the full spliced blank from scratch or are using a pre-made blank. If you want to start adding veneers to the points, the price is going to go up...and in all reality, it's not technically a sneaky pete anymore. Most SP's are not technically sneaky pete's anymore...since they sport joint collars and often some sort of ring work...hardly sneaky.
Guarantees against warpage is not a big selling point to me, and here's why: Wood moves...some moves more than others. When you are dealing with a custom maker, as opposed to a production maker...they are generally much pickier about the wood stock they get in...and will take the needed time necessary to turn that wood to keep things such as movement down to a minimum. Also, some woods are just more tempermental than others...ebonies, purpleheart, most rosewoods, and straight grained maples are perhaps your most stable of the woods. The ebonies can tend to be on the heavier side, due to the woods' densities. Purpleheart is a great stable wood, and gives a great 'feel' to the cue. I, personally think one of the best all around great hitting woods is Bocote...but it is a love/hate as to whether one likes the looks of it or not.
I would definitely suggest doing as much research as possible as to different woods' characteristics...this will help you make an informed decision as to the type of wood you would like your cue made with and lessens the possibility of disappointment with your new cue. I am not sure if they still do, but Taylor Guitars used to have a place on their website that described the different harmonic characteristics of ebony, rosewood, maple, etc. This information translates directly to the same characteristics that make for a great hitting cue.
I apologize if my post ran long and if the info is all a bit much to take in all at once. But I firmly believe that the more you know, the better the right decision for you to make is, and the end result will be more of a positive than a negative. Nothing worse than waiting for a new cue to only have it play like a log, for you.
Lisa
