Wild Wing,
That is some clean work you did there.
That is some clean work you did there.
Wild Wing,
That is some clean work you did there.
Thanks very much for the advice wild wing... I have played with the tip all day and I don't notice any difference but it definitley isn't pretty.
I do cue repair in Charleston SC. Great city to visit while you get your work done. Including myself, we have three other cue techs in the area that do cue tip replacement. A Triangle or Le-pro are in the 10 buck range. Now about your DIY work. For a first time effort and it being a hand job... not too bad. What you've done can still be fixed, but if you continue without improving your technique, you will have some issues down the road. Unless you are trying to learn how to do this and plan on getting a lathe, it's just too inexpensive to not have a pro do it. If you are interested in learning more there are some great videos on You Tube and I've learned a ton on this site over the years and have tweaked my methods as well. Hope this has helped sir.I did it myself because there is no cue repairmen around myrtle beach area....hopefully I can still play with it and I'll try better next time....thanks for the replies.
Spencer
Why don't you practice on a bar cue ??????????????????????
One time shot........... send your shaft to me and pay for the return shipping.
I will repair the ferrule and replace your tip free of charge if you pay for all the shipping.
I will fix the shaft the same day or have your cue repaired and back in the mail to you in less then 24 hrs free of charge.
AS I said above if you sand or cut or nick the ferrule or sand on the shaft you are screwing up, and you should practice putting tips on a bar cue first..
I also make and sale shafts,
Just so you know, if you sand on your ferrule and shaft you will end up with something like this.
The owner sanded on one side of the shaft...............
....Here are a few examples of my own tape and sandpaper method, with no contact with the ferrule. It takes a lot longer than whittling away with blades, but, afterall, I'm an incurable perfectionist.![]()
Very nice work WildWing. That's a pretty looking Joss (?)![]()
Very nice work WildWing. I used to do mine by hand in similar fashion before I got lazy and bought my first lathe.
Couple other tips: (no pun intended)
Sand the back of the tip, and end of ferrule with 80 grit. Be careful not to cone the end of your cue!
Super glue GEL. Less is more. Fill about 50% of the tip in the middle. It will flatten out for full coverage.
If you want to glue a Ø13mm tip on a Ø13mm cue, try using tooth picks & a rubber band to center the tip on the ferrule. BUT beware of the above tip or you now will have a more interesting problem....
Why can't you take like 800 grit sandpaper to a shaft to smooth it out a bit? So long as it's evenly applied and very, very fine grit, why not? Please educate me.
Don't see why not. lots of old timers used to sand their shafts to keep them smooth. Just don't over do it.
Why can't you take like 800 grit sandpaper to a shaft to smooth it out a bit? So long as it's evenly applied and very, very fine grit, why not? Please educate me.
Ask this in the cue maker section
When I replaced my own, I did these steps, but also made a few punctures into the bottom of the tip with a utility knife so the glue would have a better bond.
Cammel8
Yes, the Loctite professional is a liquid and not a gel. Keep in mind that CA's in their purest form are so thin they will climb a wick. In order to make them thicker, they have to add fillers to them, which actually degrades them slightly. I don't use a gel for anything.
Also, do not score the bottom of the tip, or anything for that matter. CA's are designed to glue glass to glass. That means smooth and flat, not scored. Scoring adds nothing to the adhesion, and makes it much more likely that there will be an area with a void that is filled with CA. That area can crush under impact. NO SCORING!
Royce
Why can't you take like 800 grit sandpaper to a shaft to smooth it out a bit? So long as it's evenly applied and very, very fine grit, why not? Please educate me.
You sand on a shaft to make it smaller....................
3rd turn shafts are sanded to size, sealed and then normally waxed......
What is there to smooth out ?
If the shaft is sticky then clean it, then reseal it and wax it.
shaft feels smooth and slick .
There are dozens of ways and different technics to clean seal and wax a shaft or maintain the shaft WITHOUT SANDING.
So are you suggesting that the players who use LD shafts that they sand on them?
Even though that sanding on some shafts will void the warranty ?
Sanding on the ferrule on a LD shaft is a giant no no.
My point is there is no reason to sand on a shaft, if the shaft is dented then the dent is steamed out in a matter of 5 minutes. Solid maple shafts can be steamed, I wouldn't steam a laminated LD shaft .
If I want a pissed of customer, then all I have to do is sand on his shaft .