First cue

newo9277

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,
I've allready posted this in the cuemakers forum so please excuse me if you have allready seen it. This is the first cue i have made. I was looking for your opinions, good or bad. It is cocobolo and birdseye maple. It has a 5/16-14 joint screw.
Thanks,
Owen
 

Attachments

  • 05.jpg
    05.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 381
newo9277 said:
Hi,
I've allready posted this in the cuemakers forum so please excuse me if you have allready seen it. This is the first cue i have made. I was looking for your opinions, good or bad. It is cocobolo and birdseye maple. It has a 5/16-14 joint screw.
Thanks,
Owen

It's hard to believe that's your first cue. The subtle, simple ring design and color combo are very clean, understated elegance.

Chris
 
Virgin cue

Yeah, beautiful wood and overall design. Very classy. Did you put different tips on each shaft?
 
Hey,
Duke what specs are you looking for?
Cyrex i have different tips on both shafts and different ferrals too. One has lbm ferral and hurcules medium tip, and the other has a mpi ferral and a morri medium tip.
Jim, Chris, Glad you like it.
Thanks,
Owen
 
hey.

newo9277 said:
Hey,
Duke what specs are you looking for?
Cyrex i have different tips on both shafts and different ferrals too. One has lbm ferral and hurcules medium tip, and the other has a mpi ferral and a morri medium tip.
Jim, Chris, Glad you like it.
Thanks,
Owen
weight? shaft size? how it hits? it LOOKS good.
 
It weighs 19.7 with one shaft and 19.3 with the other. One shaft is 12.8 and the other is 12.5 . It hits well, I'm really happy with the way it came out.
I'm look foward to seeing the way the next few hit. The next on i'm working on is the opposite, it's got cocobolo in the handle and a birdseye maple forearm and butt sleeve but there are no rings. The one after that is a ebony handle with birdseye maple foreare,and a padauk butt sleeve and points.
Owen
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0216b.jpg
    DSCN0216b.jpg
    93.2 KB · Views: 306
newo9277 said:
I'm look foward to seeing the way the next few hit. The next on i'm working on is the opposite, it's got cocobolo in the handle and a birdseye maple forearm and butt sleeve but there are no rings. The one after that is a ebony handle with birdseye maple foreare,and a padauk butt sleeve and points.
Those look nice. You are getting a lot done. How long have you had that Cuesmith lathe?

Tracy
 
I have a deluxe cuesmith lathe from Chris Hightower. I used a 90 degree v groove bit in the trim router and used the index. They came out good.
Thanks,
Owen
 
Have you come up with a price list? As good as they look, you may want to consider it!

Jim
 
jhendri2 said:
Have you come up with a price list? As good as they look, you may want to consider it!

Jim

I'm having trouble figuring out what i should sell them for. I don't want to charge to much because i do want them to sell, but i also don't want to sell myself short.
Any idea what you would pay for a cue like any of the three i've shown.
Thanks,
Owen
 
Okay...if ya don't mind I am going to jump in here with an opinion.

Sneakys by cuemakers generally run 150 to 200...possibly higher if you are very well known. Again, you are just starting out so I am going to give you low end numbers. Also, these are from a buyers perspective, not a sellers. I am just someone that has dealt with cues for a number of years. Plain cues like the one in the first picture of this thread generally run 250-300 with 1 shaft. Again that can be more or less, depending on how well known you are and the woods used. I would not expect a snakewood cue to be that cheap. Four pointers with no vaneers usually run around 350-450...just depends on ringwork and wrap. When you start talking vaneers, then you start talking the 600+ range...usually. Just depends on the quality of the vaneers and points. I have seen some vaneer work I would not give you 200 for...and then again I have purchased some lower end cues and the vaneer work was better than some Cokers I have seen.

I think the bottom line is this...you are going to lose out money on your time in the beginning. You may not even get 1 dollar an hour to start out with, but if you make the effort and your quality is there, you will eventually get the money you deserve for your work. I think too many cuemakers get in this business thinking they are going to be the next Schick or Richard Black and all of their cues are going to be in the thousands of dollars. That is just plain wrong. You need to approach this as a hobby I believe and stay small. Do work that satisfys you. Charge reasonable prices...and guess what happens? The cue starts selling itself. And then you can bump your prices up slowly. I just believe too many cuemakers do not not approach this as a hobby and are not comfortable with "just breaking even" at first. But to me that's how you make it in the cuemaking industry. You gotta climb the ladder one rung at the time.

Again any of us could drop names in this post of those we like and don't like as far as cuemakers and prices. The main thing I believe to keep in mind with you just starting out is to stay cheap, get your product out there to both the collector and player, and then see what happens. If you are comfortable with producing 20-30 cues a year is all, then by all means stay small and enjoy it. No one says you have to make 400 cues a year. If you develope a waiting list, then wonderful. People will really appreciate your product that much more when they purchase it.

Hope this helps!
Shorty
 
newo9277 said:
Hi,
I've allready posted this in the cuemakers forum so please excuse me if you have allready seen it. This is the first cue i have made. I was looking for your opinions, good or bad. It is cocobolo and birdseye maple. It has a 5/16-14 joint screw.
Thanks,
Owen

Very pretty. I've always like that combination. Couple of things. Can I assume since the weight is 19.7 that you didn't core the forearm? Is it forward balanced (BP > 18" from the butt of a 58" cue)?

Is your joint flat-face into a threaded insert in the shaft? Or is it piloted? Or are you putting that pin directly into the wood of the shaft?

Fred
 
Very lovely indeed.

Nice plain jane cue. Something I would like. I like a bit of ringwork though. If you ever think of selling it, PM me. :)
 
Hey,
Shorty thanks for the advise. I knew going into this i would not make a ton of cash or make a living out of it. I'm just doing it as a hobby. I would like to be able to pay myself back for the machines and wood that i buy and maybe make a little extra cash wile doing something i enjoy. It's amazing how much work and care you put into building a cue that you can be proud of and, how little you recieive for it.
I'd like to try and get a little more than you mentioned. If no one buys them i will lower my prices. Thanks shorty,
Owen
 
Fred Agnir said:
Very pretty. I've always like that combination. Couple of things. Can I assume since the weight is 19.7 that you didn't core the forearm? Is it forward balanced (BP > 18" from the butt of a 58" cue)?

Is your joint flat-face into a threaded insert in the shaft? Or is it piloted? Or are you putting that pin directly into the wood of the shaft?

Fred

Fred,
I did not core the forearm. It's balance point is 18-1/2" from the butt.
The joint is flat faced 5/16-14 into an insert.
Glad you like the cue. Thanks,
Owen
 
Back
Top