It sounds like you are asking about FS?
If so, you need to bandsaw the prongs in 2 steps.
1st wastes the material and relieves stress in the wood. Sometimes the prongs warp, sometimes not.
Moving jig (stop block) to 2nd position for final cut trims the warped prongs so the joints are accurate.
If the prongs warped at 1st step, the outsides may look "funky" but if they are stable at the trim pass, the joint will be fine.
If the prong warps again on the finish pass, it might work, or you might decide to stop wasting time on it and stick it in the stovewood pile.
(actually, can be cut up for butt sleeves, etc. Or trim the prongs off & sell the rest to a short splice maker for material.
)
It is possible to hone and true BS blades to make quite a nice cut. Don't use a band with too few teeth, though, it will wander because the gullets will always be full. Don't use a dull one for the same reason. After bandsawing, i always lightly refine the joint faces of prongs with a hook scraper or side rebate plane. Have posted pic in the past. You are looking for areas of gross obvious deviation. Not trying to smooth the cut. The geometry will rapidly go to heck if you try to make the saw cuts disappear. People have been making FS cues this way since the beginning, and a straight even kerf really does disappear when properly glued up. The thing any "joint tuning" before hand is only to remove an errant bump or such, if any.
smt
