Full Splice dots.

[lenoxmjs]

Maybe it's just me but I really hate when cuemaker's put a MOP or Ivory dot at the bottom of their splice. To me it is like they are trying to hide or cover something up. If I have have a wrapless full-splice I want to see all the veneers comming and meeting in a perfectly square little notch with no filler and no dot .

Anyone else see it this way?

 

[RRfireblade]

Yes, it is a cover up usually IMO just as when they put something over the point of the points. Except on the rare occasion when a customer requests it. Which they do every once in a blue moon.

 

[localguy]

I agree. The reason why I'm getting a wrapless long splice is because of the sharp points.

 

[Chopdoc]

Of course it is a way to hide the end. Not always, but most of the time I would say.

Same with spear points, diamonds, etc on the ends of the points. Not always, but very often a way to hide imperfections.


If you want perfect splices, just be prepared to spend more, simple as that.


.

 

[Tokyo-dave]

I would love to see examples cause I only 'kinda' get the idea. I've never liked "thingys' on the ends (or tops) of points such as spears, but I can't wrap my mind around what I may or may not have seen at the bottoms of points.

dave

 

[lenoxmjs]

I have a Tascarella Fullsplice . It has no dots at the bottom of the points and they are perfect in every way that's why I bought this particular cue. I do see a lot of Tascarella's with the dots and for me personally it removes my interest from a cue that I would have been interested in. Plus the dots count as inlays and add to the price.......

 

[lenoxmjs]

I would love to see examples cause I only 'kinda' get the idea. I've never liked "thingys' on the ends (or tops) of points such as spears, but I can't wrap my mind around what I may or may not have seen at the bottoms of points.

dave

Top cue with the dot . Bottom cue without.

 

[JonTravisTaylor]

I would love to see examples cause I only 'kinda' get the idea. I've never liked "thingys' on the ends (or tops) of points such as spears, but I can't wrap my mind around what I may or may not have seen at the bottoms of points.

dave

see link... http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=280689

 

[manwon]

Maybe it's just me but I really hate when cuemaker's put a MOP or Ivory dot at the bottom of their splice. To me it is like they are trying to hide or cover something up. If I have have a wrapless full-splice I want to see all the veneers comming and meeting in a perfectly square little notch with no filler and no dot .
Anyone else see it this way?

I know what you mean, and sometimes I think it is done to hide a flaw, but not always. Some cue makers just like the design and nothing else. But in reference to what you said above I like the bottom of Splice to be as sharp as the end of the points on the top.

Here is an example of what I am talking about:

 

[cueaddicts]

I really don't mind them, so long as the inlay used there is small......it's even better imo if there are additional inlays throughout the cue and/or ringwork that ties in with these 'bottom splice inlays'.

On the flipside, I also appreciate when everything fits together nice and tight at the base of the points.

 

[lenoxmjs]

I really don't mind them, so long as the inlay used there is small......it's even better imo if there are additional inlays throughout the cue and/or ringwork that ties in with these 'bottom splice inlays'.

On the flipside, I also appreciate when everything fits together nice and tight at the base of the points.

I would agree that it looks fine even complimentry when tied into the overall cue design. I think Marcus's Forth of July cue is an excellent example of a cue where they do not detract from the overall appearance of the cue.

 

[Travis Niklich]

I know what you mean, and sometimes I think it is done to hide a flaw, but not always. Some cue makers just like the design and nothing else. But in reference to what you said above I like the bottom of Splice to be as sharp as the end of the points on the top. To me squared points on the bottom of the cue tell me that the cue is not really full spliced, to me it means that the points are inlayed not spliced.

This is total BS so you are saying all the Brunswick Titlist cues are not full splice.
It's funny that the only cue makers who comment on how it should be done have never built a full splice blank and turned it into a completed cue all by them self.

 

[manwon]

I know what you mean, and sometimes I think it is done to hide a flaw, but not always. Some cue makers just like the design and nothing else. But in reference to what you said above I like the bottom of Splice to be as sharp as the end of the points on the top. To me squared points on the bottom of the cue tell me that the cue is not really full spliced, to me it means that the points are inlayed not spliced.

Here is an example of what I am talking about:

This is total BS so you are saying all the Brunswick Titlist cues are not full splice.
It's funny that the only cue makers who comment on how it should be done have never built a full splice blank and turned it into a completed cue all by them self.

Wow I must have struck a nerve dude, the Brunswick 26 1/2 model, Brunswick Carom king, the Brunswick Titlist, and even the Brunswick house cues all come to a sharp point at the bottom of the splice not a square.

I am currently in the process of building a full splice blank with sharp points up and down. No I have not perfected my splice yet because I still need to buy a good band saw and make my fences, however what I said is not BS. You may want to read my comments again because there is no need to be disrespectful, my comments were not disrespectful to anyone.

So please shake off the hang over or what ever other problem you may be having today!!!!!:wink:

Have a great day

 

[lenoxmjs]

This is total BS so you are saying all the Brunswick Titlist cues are not full splice.
It's funny that the only cue makers who comment on how it should be done have never built a full splice blank and turned it into a completed cue all by them self.

Trav could post a picture of the bottom of one of yours to show what I'm talking about. Please. Also I need to call you and talk about those three cues I ordered. I'd like to make some changes if it's not too late.

 

[Lexicologist71]

The vast majority of full splice cues DO have a square junction at the bottom of the points. It is just a part of the process and avoiding this is extremely labor intensive. The inlaid dot could be used to eliminate any glue voids or just to blend into other artsy elements of the cue. If the absence of the square notch at the bottom of the points is a requirement for a blank to be considered full splice, then someone better tell Joel Hercek he is doing it wrong.

 

[Travis Niklich]

Hi Manwon
It's all good you didn't hit a nerve I have a 26 1/2 and a titlist sitting here in my collection of parts and neither one is as sharp on the bottom as they are on the top. all of the tools used to make these have a kerf now how wide that kerf is varies from blade to blade but they will all leave a square bottom. there probably not 20 cue maker's that have the tooling and the knowledge to make them as a inlay as it would take one bad ass cnc to make it happen and it would still have a radius in the bottom and top. That being said I'm sorry if I came a cross a little harsh I wish you all the best in your full splice adventure it will be enlightening and frustrating at the same time

Wow I must have struck a nerve dude, the Brunswick 26 1/2 model, Brunswick Carom king, the Brunswick Titlist, and even the Brunswick house cues all come to a sharp point at the bottom of the splice not a square.

I am currently in the process of building a full splice blank with sharp points up and down. No I have not perfected my splice yet because I still need to buy a good band saw and make my fences, however what I said is not BS. You may want to read my comments again because there is no need to be disrespectful, my comments were not disrespectful to anyone.

So please shake off the hang over or what ever other problem you may be having today!!!!!:wink:

Have a great day

 

[Travis Niklich]

Trav could post a picture of the bottom of one of yours to show what I'm talking about. Please. Also I need to call you and talk about those three cues I ordered. I'd like to make some changes if it's not too late.

Hi Matt
I don't have any close up's of the bottom but here are a couple that i had saved. I have done the dots spears and clover leafs on the bottom and tips some time it is to cover a small spot where one veneer didn't go all the way to the bottom but we are only talking about .020 or .030 of an inch. but I have done that to cues that had perfect points because that is what a customer wanted it or I thought it looked cool. With the high cost (and getting higher all the time) of premium exotic wood it would be ridicules to think that a cue maker would throw away a great splice for such a small flaw that can be fixed with a small inlay

 

[manwon]

Hi Manwon
It's all good you didn't hit a nerve I have a 26 1/2 and a titlist sitting here in my collection of parts and neither one is as sharp on the bottom as they are on the top. all of the tools used to make these have a kerf now how wide that kerf is varies from blade to blade but they will all leave a square bottom. there probably not 20 cue maker's that have the tooling and the knowledge to make them as a inlay as it would take one bad ass cnc to make it happen and it would still have a radius in the bottom and top. That being said I'm sorry if I came a cross a little harsh I wish you all the best in your full splice adventure it will be enlightening and frustrating at the same time



I have already started pulling my hair out, but I am up to the challenge and some day I will make it to were I want to be with these blanks, well at least I hope so.

Take Care

 

[ShootingArts]

Jet

Hi Manwon
It's all good you didn't hit a nerve I have a 26 1/2 and a titlist sitting here in my collection of parts and neither one is as sharp on the bottom as they are on the top. all of the tools used to make these have a kerf now how wide that kerf is varies from blade to blade but they will all leave a square bottom. there probably not 20 cue maker's that have the tooling and the knowledge to make them as a inlay as it would take one bad ass cnc to make it happen and it would still have a radius in the bottom and top. That being said I'm sorry if I came a cross a little harsh I wish you all the best in your full splice adventure it will be enlightening and frustrating at the same time




I have already started pulling my hair out, but I am up to the challenge and some day I will make it to were I want to be with these blanks, well at least I hope so.

Take Care

Craig,

A few years back when I was bandsaw shopping Jet had one that was pretty reasonable and the blade path was adjustable above and below the table. I went to a factory day at a nearby dealer and there was a gentleman or two from the factory or US distributer there. He said the order you adjusted out the blade guides was critical to getting it to run perfect but I've slept since then. Also this saw would take a one inch or a bit wider blade which I think helps them run true.

Sorry no model number remembered after this long. It was under a thousand, I think around six hundred then.

Hu

 

[Travis Niklich]

I have a jet ( 16 or 18 inch can't remember)at we bought for my Dad's shop it's not worth the time it took to drag it in the shop some of there tools are great I have a mill by them but some are junk. If you look at the hp of the motor they are weak for re sawing ebony and other exotics