This may be a very basic question, but I had a customer ask and had no idea, told him I would find out. What is the deal with these G-10 Joint Pins from Atlas? Are they just to make the cue lighter? Why would you use them? It would seem to me if it was a weight issue you would use ALUMINUM, but I don't have any idea. Any help would be great!
G-10 Joint Pin
- Thread starter NJS Custom Cues
- Start date
Lighter?
Is it because it's the lightest weighted
Uni-Loc* Radial Pin offered?
That is why I used it in one of my Cues..
To balance, moving more weight to the back of my Cue.
I'm still afraid of the brittleness...
BTW, The Uni-Loc*G-10 Radials fit looser that the Metal Uni-Loc* Radial Pins
So, I didn't get the snug fit I wanted as the SS and Titanium Radials..
(using the same "Under-sized" Radial Tap)
mmmm...:frown:
Disclaimer: I'm not a Cuemaker..
Alton
Is it because it's the lightest weighted
Uni-Loc* Radial Pin offered?
That is why I used it in one of my Cues..
To balance, moving more weight to the back of my Cue.
I'm still afraid of the brittleness...
BTW, The Uni-Loc*G-10 Radials fit looser that the Metal Uni-Loc* Radial Pins
So, I didn't get the snug fit I wanted as the SS and Titanium Radials..
(using the same "Under-sized" Radial Tap)
mmmm...:frown:
Disclaimer: I'm not a Cuemaker..
Alton
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Yes. They are solely for weighting/balancing issues, and generally are not as snug a fit in the shaft threads as a metal pin, in my experience as a player. I have owned two playing cues with g-10, 3/8-10 pins, and they seemed ok to me from a performance standpoint. But I think, if I had my preference, and I was facing a weighting/balancing issue with a cue, I would core the cue, and go with a titanium pin, or something to that effect. Hope this helps a bit......
I think Uni-Loc* should not have accepted that Production Run of
G-10 Radials. They are UNDERSIZE.. (Just my Opinion, I could be wrong.)
But, they are sold to us at the Suggested RETAIL PRICE.
And, we have a loose fits...:grin-square:
I would have rejected them and not sell them to you guys..:smile:
Alton
G-10 is much stronger than many believe. They, however can be broken but such force would also bend a stainless or brass pin, also necessitating replacement. An aluminum pin would be bent with even less force. I believe that Titanium would be the best but they are expensive.
Dick
Of coarse I agree that the only way to bend or break a pin is through misuse. I was just commenting on their relative strengths to allay any fear of them being to fragile. There are many different personal preferences of different cue makers on the subject of building materials. I'm not trying to get into that what-so-ever. Through experience, cue makers adopt what works best for them.
I get my G-10 radials from Tom and I've never had any problems with the fit but then again I've only used 15 or 20. I just polish on a wheel and use a little wax. What has always been my worry of their use was the abrasive wear factor on the threads in the shaft. Although they feel smooth I'm quite aware of fiber glasses abrasive nature over a long period of time.
Dick
Oh, I never meant any argument. I agree, all builders have their own reasons for doing things. I get my pins from Tom, too. I get them in brass and aluminum. G10 & titanium are options, but not for me. I don't even use stainless steel.
I vistited a nearby shop and the cuemaker had ground a point on the front of a G-10 pin and then took out his hammer and drove it through a 2x4. Can't remember which shop it was, I want to say Woodworth. Anyway's, Since then, I haven't worried about the strength of the G-10.
Column Strength, Yes, it's strong..
That is not the applied force I was talking about.
But, thanks for posting it..
Fear of snapping the pin (Shear Strength?),
like someone did it to a Cognocenti.
They hit the shaft on the ground (Not hard, according to the story).
Just posted to clarify..
Alton
Thank you for the information. I figured it was for the weight and it sounds like it's not a good idea to use. I'll stick with Titanium.
A nice thing about the G-10 is this: It is plenty strong enough in the line of the shot. When suffering side stress, it will shear. Titanium will not. What this means is that the cue will be salvagable without major repair. The pin can be machined out. It will not blow through the joint. Titanium ans aluminum often will.
i like the G-10 pins and yes they all seem slightly undersized than metal pins,at least the ones i have had were.i like the way they play and i don't like coring nice playing dense forearms.
i will also say that i had Tom make me a few feet worth of carbon fiber pins and they have truly been the nuts.lighter even than G-10,stronger than steel and very nice hitting.it is apparently a highly tonal material.in a solid nice piece of African Blackwood they make an awesome hitting cue.
downside is it cost as much or more than Titanium.
i will also say that i had Tom make me a few feet worth of carbon fiber pins and they have truly been the nuts.lighter even than G-10,stronger than steel and very nice hitting.it is apparently a highly tonal material.in a solid nice piece of African Blackwood they make an awesome hitting cue.
downside is it cost as much or more than Titanium.