G10 Pins?

This is always an interesting topic.

G10 can be made in any thread style and is much lighter than metal, except aluminum. This may or may not be an advantage, depending on what you want your cue to feel like.

I can only tell you why I use it. It comes down to mass, not weight. Some people confuse the two. Imagine striking a ball. The impact causes vibration through the shaft, the joint, the forearm, then to your hand. If there is a large metal mass at the joint, it interrupts that feedback, IMO.

Also, I like the way it flexes with the cue as opposed to metal, which won't really flex at all.

Now, this is MY cue and MY reasons. I've talked with other cue makers who do not like the flex. That's ok too. It all depends on what you are looking for.
 
the main disadvantage of a G10 pin I see is only from cue repairman's view: if there is a need, for any reason, to remove the pin - it can only be broken and drilled out, while metal pins are often removed with the help of heat. G10 doesn't transfer heat so it makes no sense heating the pin.
 
The advantages of the G-10 are it is lighter weight and allows the cue to flex more.
The disadvantages of the G-10 are it is lighter weight and allows the cue to flex more.
It all depends on what balance, feel and hit you are going for in a cue as to whether it should be a choice or not. I usually go for Titanium when wanting lighter weight as if flexes about the same as stainless, so it changes the feel and hit less than G-10 does.
 
the main disadvantage of a G10 pin I see is only from cue repairman's view: if there is a need, for any reason, to remove the pin - it can only be broken and drilled out, while metal pins are often removed with the help of heat. G10 doesn't transfer heat so it makes no sense heating the pin.

I don't know why that would be a disadvantage .
The steel pins have the disadvantage b/c they cannot be machined out easily.
Heating pins to remove them is not an advantage. Heat is not good for the wood and glue.
Removing G10 pin is much easier. You just cut it off then drill/bore/mill the rest .
I mill them out cleanly then re-plug the hole with a threaded 1/2 20 matching wood dowel.

G10's big feature was mentioned by RAT. It lets the cue resonate unlike other pins. It's the closest to one-piece cue feel than any other joint screw imo.
Biggest disadvantage is, it is a little abrasive.
 
The feedback it gives is the biggest advantage. The G10 glues perfectly with epoxy and becomes part of the wood. You do not get any of the "dampening" that you would get from a metal pin, as mentioned earlier by others.

The other advantage is this:
When you lean your Cog against the table like an idiot, and another idiot comes along and trips on it, when the cue breaks the pin will shear rather than blow through the ringwork on the forearm and the cue is saveable rather than firewood.
 
There are many opinions about G10 pins. Most opinions about G10 is subjective. I have not seen any scientific proof one way or the other.

G10 pins seem to be more abrasive to the threads in the shaft. Some people have trouble with them loosing up while playing. If they flex, then I don't want them. I don't want any flex at the joint connection.

I will stick with metal pins.

that's my opinion

Kim
 
I can't exactly disagree. Mass at the joint will definitely influence a cues natural frequency - with increased mass there is more damping.

So lets say two cues are as identical as possible with exception to the joints.

-Cue A is fitted with a .9 oz. stainless pin, a 1.6 oz. stainless collar, and .35 oz. brass insert. Total weight of the these parts on cue A is 2.85 oz.

-Cue B is fitted with a .16 oz glass pin, a .12 oz. phenolic collar, and 2.57 oz. of tungsten is added behind the pin. Total weight of the these parts on cue B plus ballast is 2.85 oz.

The natural frequency of both cues should be equally damped ...but the materials in the respective joints should also store and pass energy differently, and as I understand that's where resonate frequency comes into play.

I don't pretend to have any idea how much variance would be found, just thought it would be interesting to compare the numbers.

Do you have the wave forms or data to show us or are these statements not really facts and just what you suppose will happen?

From my experience, it is never like you think it is.

Kim
 
Kim, my main points were that with the right equipment and a sound methodology it should be easy to separate fact from fiction ...I was actually trying to solicit something other than opinion.

I understand that .... I just went off on a tangent.. I see everyone saying that this hits better than that and other sudo scientific jargon that suggests fact but it is just an opinion.........

sorry......... didn't mean to attack...........

I would love to see some real scientific data to prove some of the things people say

Kim
 
?

I don't know why that would be a disadvantage .
The steel pins have the disadvantage b/c they cannot be machined out easily.
Heating pins to remove them is not an advantage. Heat is not good for the wood and glue.
Removing G10 pin is much easier. You just cut it off then drill/bore/mill the rest .
I mill them out cleanly then re-plug the hole with a threaded 1/2 20 matching wood dowel.

G10's big feature was mentioned by RAT. It lets the cue resonate unlike other pins. It's the closest to one-piece cue feel than any other joint screw imo.
Biggest disadvantage is, it is a little abrasive.
something like a wooden pin???
 
Kim, my main points were that with the right equipment and a sound methodology it should be easy to separate fact from fiction ...I was actually trying to solicit something other than opinion.

You wouldn't need equipment.
Mock up some cues and then find out yourself.

There are no scientific data Brazilian Rosewoods hit the best . It can be argued either way all day .
There are no scientific data old Micarta ferrules are the best.
There are no scientific data dark heavy maple hit better lighter ones .
No scientific data slow penetrating epoxy sound better than 5-minute epoxy.
Or phenolics or ivory are better than polymer as joints.

And I'm not too sure scientific data will convince all peeps anyway.
Some people argue damped hit is better.
 
abrasive aspect

There are many opinions about G10 pins. Most opinions about G10 is subjective. I have not seen any scientific proof one way or the other.

G10 pins seem to be more abrasive to the threads in the shaft. Some people have trouble with them loosing up while playing. If they flex, then I don't want them. I don't want any flex at the joint connection.

I will stick with metal pins.

that's my opinion

Kim

I have also heard about the abrasiveness of G10. Do they actually slowly grind the wood in the pin. Does anyone have experience with G10 pins losing their grip. I have looked at Cog cues and would love to know more.
 
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I have also heard about the abrasiveness of G10. Do they actually slowly grind the wood in the pin. Does anyone have experience with G10 pins losing their grip. I have looked at Cog cues and would love to know more.

I think Cog's with G10 pins have been around long enough that any such problems would have become apparent and Joe Gold would have changed to something else by now.

But even if the shaft threads were to loosen a bit over some long period of time, it could be easily fixed.
 
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