G5 epoxy

[bruppert]

I predict that the just will win and the truth will persevere.

Kim

Funny thing about Truth though..... everyone seems to have their own version of it

 

[snipershot]

Thanks Joey, I think between you, Joe and some stuff I read a while back I definitely will give it a try. I have a couple Widows I'll try it on first. I like the refrigerator idea. I was thinking of making a large insulated box and put a candle in it to dry any wood I get that isn't klin dried. I like the light bulb idea as well. I'll just make it tall so I can accommodate both. I'll also give G5 a shot since I already have a couple bottles and Rick made a nice writeup on using it. I also have the Cuecote type epoxy but haven't used it yet, can't remember if I got it from Chris or the similar stuff from Barringer. I've read a couple things on AZ that it might yellow over time but not sure if that is true.... again I've never used it.

I had one problem with the Ceramithane. When I applied the first coat it pull out my waterbased dye and made a swirly mess. I stripped it all back off and then tried a seal coat with dewaxed shellac but it turned the Purpleheart brown, looked ok at first but the next day it was brown and hasn't gotten purple again. I am going to at least use the West for a base going forward.

Joe, I'll just have to try it and see how well it buffs out. If I don't need to use the Ceramithane then I certainly won't. Like you, I'm am looking for something easy to use, that doesn't take forever and use that going forward. I couldn't find anything info on Ceramithane with breaking through the nano coat. If you happen to find it again I'd love to read it. This was the only thing I've found so far that sounded even vaguely similar:

DavidF
01-03-2006, 11:15 AM
Out of interest the finish is water based acrylic "Ceramithane" 5 brushed coats and then cut back with the "Micro Mesh" system from 1800 - 12000 grit. The lake was cut the same from 2400 - 12000. Final coat was "Nano wax" a car product from Eagle that will fill any small swirl marks. The table feels like glass -

Man I was totally wrong. It wasn't ceramithane that had problems, it was ceramiclear. That's an auto clear. Ceramithane is water based. I searched all over for that article I read and then I realized I was looking for the wrong name. Lol. Sorry for the confusion, disregard any of my ignorant info. Lol.

Joe

 

[JoeyInCali]

Man I was totally wrong. It wasn't ceramithane that had problems, it was ceramiclear. That's an auto clear. Ceramithane is water based. I searched all over for that article I read and then I realized I was looking for the wrong name. Lol. Sorry for the confusion, disregard any of my ignorant info. Lol.

Joe

You shouldn't.
Ceramiclear is one of the best auto finishes there is.
I hope you have assisted air machine Joe.

 

[snipershot]

You shouldn't.
Ceramiclear is one of the best auto finishes there is.
I hope you have assisted air machine Joe.

I'm not using ceramiclear man. I'm gonna try the rake base and that ceramithane and see how it goes. I read in another thread that its good stuff, so I'm gonna give it a shot.

Joe

 

[snipershot]

Here is a li k to that article I was reffering to.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?53781-Ceramiclear-issues

Joe

 

[Lexicologist71]

the torch

from what I understand but dont know for a fact is its not the heat that makes the bubbles burst it is the carbon dioxide.
that a torch might be replaced with a bottle carbon dioxide.
MMike

No, it is the heat. Bottled CO2 would cause the bubbles to shrink. They would stay that size only long enough for you to turn your back assuming they are gone. After which time, they would resume room temperature and look like big bubbles again. Direct or radiant heat should do the trick. A torch or heat lamp should do the trick. A heat gun may throw debris onto your finish. The heat causes the bubbles to burst. Spraying with compressed gases could cause some to become trapped under the finish in the form of additional bubbles, provided you don't blast the finish off the cue.