GC-1 RAIL CALIBRATION question
- Thread starter obe1
- Start date
I think it really depends on what you want out of your table. If it is going to be more of a recreational table for family and friends I would say there is no harm and no foul installing "incorrect" cushions. If you want your table for somewhat serious competition and to prepare you for tournaments I would say you really should spend the extra money to have cushions correctly fit to your table. If whoever installs the "incorrect" cushions can get the nose height correct and the angle of the cushion close so it has proper rebound it should be good enough, many people have tables like this and claim they play well. The playing area will shrink by 1/4" I think, not a big deal but the table will not be twice as long as it is wide anymore, I think that is a big deal and your diamond system will not play "on track". If you do not modify the rails you will also be left with large pocket openings, I have heard "shimmed" tables do not play very well. I had my GCII modified for current cushion profiles and had the rails extended for 4 1/2" pocket openings, I am very happy with the results, I think it plays better now than it did with the original spec cushions and rails. I also play league and many tournaments on Pro-Cut Diamond tables so I wanted a table at home with similar sized pockets.
(The playing area will shrink by 1/4" I think, not a big deal but the table will not be twice as long as it is wide anymore)
That I did not know.
With the cost for the calibration and shipping to a AZ table mech, looks like i will have to sell it.
Thank you for the great info...
That I did not know.
With the cost for the calibration and shipping to a AZ table mech, looks like i will have to sell it.
Thank you for the great info...
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We had ours done by Jack Zimmerman{ INDIANA}, he did a fantastic job. We used Artemis cushions, calibrated the rails and extended the sub rails to make the pockets 4.5", everyone loves them. He is a member on this site.
First of all, are the cushions bad? If not, are you wanting to tighten the pockets up, if not....then leave the rails alone.
Glenn
Thank you for asking,I took some bank shots before taking the table down to transport and the cushions have dead spots on all rails.
I found out the owner purchased the table in 1968 from the same pool hall I hung around in the 60's so I bought it ,never thinking about the costs to re-calibrate.
Thank you for asking,I took some bank shots before taking the table down to transport and the cushions have dead spots on all rails.
I found out the owner purchased the table in 1968 from the same pool hall I hung around in the 60's so I bought it ,never thinking about the costs to re-calibrate.
Feel the cushions to see if there's any hard or soft spots in them, because loose rail bolts can make you think the cushions are bad too, especially if the fig 8 nut plates are mounted on the bottom of the rails, the mounting screws could be stripped out.
What color is it painted?
Unless you want to tighten the pockets, leave the rails stock, loose rails and worn out cloth don't represent how the table really plays. Pinch feel the nose of the cushions, every inch, check for inconsistencies. I highly doubt the cushions are bad, but....are they stock, or have they already been replaced....take the rail cloth off and look at the cushions.
Take some more pictures of the bottom of the cushion's.
So what gives here? The rails in the pics have the figure 8 nut plates like a GC1 is supposed to have but the aluminum extrusions tht hold the rail blinds are segmented like a GCII. I was under the impression that GC1s had long 1 piece rail blind extrusions that were later changed to segmented extrusions to make it easier to hang the rail blinds.
Only the early GC1s..