Glue for Delrin

Stoney

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi guys, long time lurker, recent subscriber, and first time poster here.

I do not ususally use Delrin for anything but jigs or fixtures so I've never had to glue anything to it. Due to my own stupidity I find I have to use some Delrin to make a set of Uni-Loc style joint protectors with some inlay work in them. What can I use/do to increase the odds of the pin, insert, and inlays staying where I put them?

As a side question, can anyone tell me the inside diameter/thread pitch of the Uni-Loc insert? There's got to be a cheaper way to make the male joint protector instead of buying the pins.

Thanks,
Stoney
 
Welcome to the forum.
You probably know that Delrin doesn't glue well. Increasing the surface area and threading it in addition to glue is usually the best answer. Also, you can pick up the brass insert to a uniloc set at Atlas for $5.50.

Good luck with your project.
Mr H
 
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Stoney said:
Hi guys, long time lurker, recent subscriber, and first time poster here.

I do not ususally use Delrin for anything but jigs or fixtures so I've never had to glue anything to it. Due to my own stupidity I find I have to use some Delrin to make a set of Uni-Loc style joint protectors with some inlay work in them. What can I use/do to increase the odds of the pin, insert, and inlays staying where I put them?

As a side question, can anyone tell me the inside diameter/thread pitch of the Uni-Loc insert? There's got to be a cheaper way to make the male joint protector instead of buying the pins.

Thanks,
Stoney

What kind of inlays are you trying to do? If you want to do inlays out of wood it can be done by cutting the inlay slightly oversized. Then you put the inlays in the microwave oven for a short time. It removes the moister and will shrink them. Then just press them in place and wait. You will not be able to get them out if you want to once they begin to swell.
 
Mr Hoppe said:
Welcome to the forum.
You probably know that Delrin doesn't glue well. Increasing the surface area and threading it in addition to glue is usually the best answer. Also, you can pick up the brass insert to a uniloc set at Atlas for $5.50.

Good luck with your project.
Mr H

It is the pins that are expensive, IMHO, not the inserts. I planned to rough up the threads on the metal and the Delrin as well as surface clean the threads in the Delrin with acetone or tulol just prior to gluing.

I can use a fishtail bit on the inlay pockets to undercut the pocket edges on the bottom. This may provide some additional mechanical advantage once the glue has set and bonded to the inlay material.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
Stoney
 
macguy said:
What kind of inlays are you trying to do? If you want to do inlays out of wood it can be done by cutting the inlay slightly oversized. Then you put the inlays in the microwave oven for a short time. It removes the moister and will shrink them. Then just press them in place and wait. You will not be able to get them out if you want to once they begin to swell.

I'm using synthetic pink coral on these inlays. Don't know if this technique would work on this material. I might just melt them down if I nuke them. It is a good idea for wood though. I may try freezing the inlays and cutting the pockets a little undersize. From what I understand, freezing will cause the inlays to shrink slightly and perhaps when they thaw out they will be a real tight fit.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
Stoney
 
macguy said:
What kind of inlays are you trying to do? If you want to do inlays out of wood it can be done by cutting the inlay slightly oversized. Then you put the inlays in the microwave oven for a short time. It removes the moister and will shrink them. Then just press them in place and wait. You will not be able to get them out if you want to once they begin to swell.

very clever - thanks for the tip.

Dale
 
macguy said:
What kind of inlays are you trying to do? If you want to do inlays out of wood it can be done by cutting the inlay slightly oversized. Then you put the inlays in the microwave oven for a short time. It removes the moister and will shrink them. Then just press them in place and wait. You will not be able to get them out if you want to once they begin to swell.
Very cool idea thanks, rep to you!

Paul
 
Stoney said:
Hi guys, long time lurker, recent subscriber, and first time poster here.

I do not ususally use Delrin for anything but jigs or fixtures so I've never had to glue anything to it. Due to my own stupidity I find I have to use some Delrin to make a set of Uni-Loc style joint protectors with some inlay work in them. What can I use/do to increase the odds of the pin, insert, and inlays staying where I put them?

As a side question, can anyone tell me the inside diameter/thread pitch of the Uni-Loc insert? There's got to be a cheaper way to make the male joint protector instead of buying the pins.

Thanks,
Stoney

I have made many a cue with Delrin buttcaps over the years - and
have no trouble keeping them on using epoxy and a coupla'
dirty little secrets...

My first option would be to talk him out of using Delrin, failing that,
I would cross pin the pin with a setscrew.

Dale
 
macguy said:
What kind of inlays are you trying to do? If you want to do inlays out of wood it can be done by cutting the inlay slightly oversized. Then you put the inlays in the microwave oven for a short time. It removes the moister and will shrink them. Then just press them in place and wait. You will not be able to get them out if you want to once they begin to swell.

can you define a short time ???
 
BHQ said:

can you define a short time ???

You just put them in for 15 or 20 seconds and then check them. You will see them sweat. Just do it till they fit. An interesting thing along another line is, you can take a small piece of wood like a inch square and weigh it. Then microwave it for maybe a minute or so and weight it again. Repeat this till you get no more drops in weight. Be sure to wipe it dry each time. Then you can calculate the difference and you will know exactly what the percentage of moister that was in the wood. You can keep test pieces around where you store your wood and check occasionally to monitor your wood.
 
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I think Atlas sells a special glue for Delrin.

I used to have some of it but avoid using delrin for anything more than jigs and fixtures.
 
WilleeCue said:
I think Atlas sells a special glue for Delrin.

I used to have some of it but avoid using delrin for anything more than jigs and fixtures.

They do, you have reminded me of a point I left out.
It's worthless

Dale<been there, tried that, threw it away>
 
pdcue said:
They do, you have reminded me of a point I left out.
It's worthless

Dale<been there, tried that, threw it away>

That reminded me of why I threw the stuff I had out and avoid using Delrin in a cue. LOL
 
macguy said:
You just put them in for 15 or 20 seconds and then check them. You will see them sweat. Just do it till they fit. An interesting thing along another line is, you can take a small piece of wood like a inch square and weigh it. Then microwave it for maybe a minute or so and weight it again. Repeat this till you get no more drops in weight. Be sure to wipe it dry each time. Then you can calculate the difference and you will know exactly what the percentage of moister that was in the wood. You can keep test pieces around where you store your wood and check occasionally to monitor your wood.
thanks mac,
boy i wish i knew this little tip two days ago :rolleyes:
 
The Cyanopoxy system from www.coolchem.com is supposed to work well on Delrin. They have their main adhesive, an activator, and a special prep product for "difficult plastics". I've never used the product, I'm just going by what I've read on some other forums.
 
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