Glue question for gluing cores

Wood glue works best when what you are gluing is under pressure, so unless you use a tapered core that essentially gives you a morse taper fit, I would use PU glue or epoxy if you can maintain tight tolerances.
 
Kim Bye said:
Wood glue works best when what you are gluing is under pressure, so unless you use a tapered core that essentially gives you a morse taper fit, I would use PU glue or epoxy if you can maintain tight tolerances.
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I was surprised when I looked into this. That really doesn't seem to be the case. One study was getting similar results between epoxy and pva on tight, medium, and loose fit joinery.

That said, they weren't gluing cocobolo.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I was surprised when I looked into this. That really doesn't seem to be the case. One study was getting similar results between epoxy and pva on tight, medium, and loose fit joinery.

That said, they weren't gluing cocobolo.
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I use epoxy for piece of mind, but I do agree that modern wood glues is much stronger than what they had back in the day, how it works with oily woods I don't know and why take the risk when epoxy is cheap and readily available ;)
 
Kim Bye said:
I use epoxy for piece of mind, but I do agree that modern wood glues is much stronger than what they had back in the day, how it works with oily woods I don't know and why take the risk when epoxy is cheap and readily available ;)
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I don't disagree and while I'm pointing out information, not advocating for either.

Let's just say that if I were a customer it wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker knowing that pva glue was used.
 
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JA062669 said:
Gluing maple cores into dymondwood type forearms. Tight fitting cores.
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Why is it tight?
I decided to stick with the glue I use now by making mock-ups then examining them after.
That included tapping the sides for sound and cutting them on a band saw.
 
JA062669 said:
Gluing maple cores into dymondwood type forearms. Tight fitting cores.
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Make sure the woods are seasoned, cores too.
Pick which glues you think might work,
Then
Sacrifice a piece of wood for each. Install your cores, do a turn after a week then let them sit for 3 months and spin them.
Check for movement. Then cut them up and check your work.
You will find your best answer.
 
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JA062669 said:
Can titebond glue be used for gluing in a core?
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If you think you can get a 14-15" dowel thru a 12" handle/forearm without it binding up halfway thru....go ahead. In my experience, Titebond 2 will grab so quick you won't even get a 1/4 thru...titebond 3.....maybe about 3/4 thru before binding. Maybe using a press to do it, and watering down the glue....but then that weakens the glue's ability to do it's designed job.
Just my .5 cents
 
Absolutely. When I first started I beta tested with epoxy west system and had a cue buzz so I went to the gorilla glue and have been very happy as I have full cored over 150 cues since without a problem.

If you wish to use epoxy look at Bob's (DZ Cues) method. He preps his dowels in a way to get the gap filled inside the cored piece.
 
scdiveteam said:
Absolutely. When I first started I beta tested with epoxy west system and had a cue buzz so I went to the gorilla glue and have been very happy as I have full cored over 150 cues since without a problem.

If you wish to use epoxy look at Bob's (DZ Cues) method. He preps his dowels in a way to get the gap filled inside the cored piece.
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A very easy way to avoid the buzz is a threaded connection. I use a 3/4-8 threaded dowel to connect my a-joint. Doesn't even need glue to stop the buzz.
 
Michael Webb said:
Coring and Glues are like a broken record here. Past the basic common sense, most won't really understand the impact your glue and tolerances have, until you invest YOUR time and material.
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My best experiences with trial and error have been trying methods others say can't or shouldn't be used with slight variations to overcome what the stated problems are. These type of threads are good for a starting point of building mock ups and maybe trying some things you wouldn't otherwise have. Sometimes the silliest questions or opinions can spark an idea. But I have never been one to take any one's word on the "right way" to build cues.

I have used tapered cores with titebond and I fail to see how a better glue bond can be achieved if that is your main objective. If I were building cues with A joints I would 100% be going that direction.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Are you sure about that? Carom cues use a wooden joint pin and they don't epoxy those together every time they use them.
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That's for temporary joinery bro.
Not permanent.
Have you built a butt with no glue on the threaded wood screw?
I use wood screw too. Flat bottom and much finer than 8tpi
 
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