And I'll bet YOU are still running around on bias ply tires on YOUR car versus radials because in the 50s those were the "best" - LOL.
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Glue question for gluing cores
- Thread starter JA062669
- Start date
I like the much rougher stainless steel brushes.
Gun cleaning brush are designed to not scratch the barrel.
The SS brush are designed to scratch.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
I think you missed the point.
NO you missed the point !!
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
How old are you, four?
If Bushka used West System, there would be a lot less of them with rattles.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Right. To my point, cue makers questioned old methods, like the op is doing, too get here.
I have a question for all the coring cuemakers. Epoxy seems to have become the favorite even though harder to use than Gorilla Glue. Have any of you cuemakers had a Gorilla Glue core fail? Or is it just a fear that has not come to pass yet? 30 years ago I was negative about coring with Gorilla glue, but have not had any failures so far.
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
Chris I staunchly want to build the best cue I can but after several years of using epoxy and building mock ups I am slowly coming around to your way of thinking. I built a mock up recently with west systems using a maple core and pink ivory for a handle and when I cut it up the results were disappointing. So I built another one trying to rough up the pink ivory bore more and a tiny bit more clearance and the results did not improve. The pink ivory seemed to have characteristics more like delrin. I was able to separate much of the core from the outer wood with a moderate amount of force driving a small screw driver into the seam and breaking the glue bond and not the hard wood. All the glue was on the maple core. Not that I think it's going to come loose in a cue but is it really superior? I won't be alive in 30 years but that's a good time for no failures. So I started thinking about so many other similar woods. I am planning to build the same mock up very soon with gorilla glue to compare but haven't done it yet. It's hard to find expensive wood crappy enough to use like this. Always keep testing and never be satisfied 100%. There are always better ways and smarter people than me. When someone tells you something no matter how much it makes sense you can trust but always verify.
Epoxy is not harder to use than Gorilla glue, but it is more exspensive. I've used both which is what I advise everyone to do.
Don't take my opinions, form your own.
Have I seen a difference in stability?
I sure have, and my tolerances are tighter than most!
When people say West system, they should also learn about the additives that work with it based on the task they are doing.
I'm a nobody but I know what I know because I 've taken the time to learn what I know.
The learning never stops and it shouldn't if you care about what your doing!
So true, it's like the onion in Peer Gynt, once you peel off a layer, you discover a new layer..
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
In the big picture of building a quality cue adhesive cost isn't nor should it be a consideration.
Joint and Butt collar length on the other hand? I think shorter looks better and the fact it's half as expensive is a bonus. If I thought longer looked better expense wouldn't even come to mind.
Guys, I've enjoyed the discussion, thank you. My question is "Isn't there a significant difference in working time between epoxy and poly glue?" I know someone pointed out the difficulty in getting a forearm core pressed through when using Titebond. I thought from previous reading, that it is also a problem with poly glues (e.g. Gorilla Glue).
Thanks
Thanks
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
If you have a nice slip fit dry you have several minutes working time to slide a core lubed up with poly glue before it binds up. Of course the sooner the better I wouldn't take a bathroom break with the glue on the parts.
Slow setting epoxy however the issue isn't setting up on you quickly it's getting enough epoxy into tight clearances so you don't have dry spots after it soaks in. That is if it soaks in at all. I like to smother both pieces and let it sit for 15-10 minutes before proceeding with the next step.
Gorilla is the thickest of all poly glues.
It also expands the most.
Wood glue is out of the question.
So is melamine glue.
And with that being said.
Once you start inserting and twisting the dowell,
DON'T STOP til it's done!
Speaking of Titebond and PU glues. Titebond actually makes a PU glue, I prefer that to Gorilla.
Titebond Polyurethane
Titebond Polyurethane
That one was the weakest in one test
I hope I'm not overstepping here, because I'm certainly not a Cue-Maker, nor am I a representative of/for the company, I'm about to mention. I mounted a 1X furring strip onto the studs of a bathroom wall once, while repairing a bathroom sink. I then used Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy to glue the back of that bathroom sink top, onto the furring strip. When I say that sink top wasn't moving...I mean that sonofahumbucker wasn't moving! "Modern" epoxies are incredible! 
GG is the favorite not epoxy.............. a GG core will never fail coring..................