"Gold Crown" Ball Polisher

3kushn said:
I thought I did give a wear spec.
1/2mm for carom balls.
That's when they start to bank noticeably short.

I was told this by a 2X National Champion. Seems to hold true.
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How does that theory hold up on the new Gabriel billiards tables that bank short when new with their aluminum extruded rails? Sorry but banking short is not a sign of ball wear size, and a 1/2mm is 19.685 thousands of an inch, which equates to a whole lot of missing phenolic resin, so do you have any facts to back your claim up, or are we suppose to take "I was told" as facts. I know more about how a pool table plays, and how to MAKE it play the way I want it to, than ANY pro player does, just saying!! Fact!

Including billiards tables. The 1912 Regina 3C 10' billiards table i rebuilt at Brothers Billiards in Billings, MT without heated slates will bank 10 rails, and I have a video proving it😉
 
RRfireblade said:
WTH are you talking about?

"If you rub any something more on one side than the other, it's going to wear faster on that side."

Are you arguing that's not a fact? I'd love to hear that explanation.

Or are you claiming that it's not possible to polish/shine/etc a sphere in a way that it's stays a sphere?

I'm also lost on the playing dumb part, are you playing dumb on these most basic of concepts? Yes, common sense, apply liberally.

Um, not really sure what else to say but I'm sorry if this comes as a surprise, but there are endless types of machine operations in use to shape and polish a sphere. I mean, how do you think pool balls get that way in the first place?

Wow. I guess. :O
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Do you understand what indexing means? If you wanted this "magic" wear to happen, you better index the balls in the same orientation every time, and hope the friction never changes etc. Each time you load the balls, they will be in a different orientation, aka not indexed. Every time there is a vibration or a frictional difference they will move some. You're not going to wear a set of balls out if they rotate around the same axis for 30 seconds before spinning to another.

It's really that simple. Common sense.
 
RRfireblade said:
This is a weird place, not sure what to think.

I've casted phenolic so yes. It also wears from friction like everything else. Pool balls wear from play alone, cleaning and other use. Fact. How much? Varies. Tons of data out there showing that they do, even here. Fact. I've made no claim as to how much and I've stated it could minimal in this case, now multiple times. Please go back and read. Thanks.

Polish and many/most cleaners contain abrasives. How much? Varies. That's how those work. Fact. Soap is different, it works by breaking molecular bonds to free debris, assuming you don't scrub with an abrasive. Carpet is abrasive. Also fact. The vid posted shows the balls rotating in a semi fixed (not random) pattern and in contact with an abrasive. Fact.

I'm sure your sample size of one is impressive, but it only proves something to one person, just as I said to the OP. So far not one single shred of contrasting fact/data/testing has been presented, not one. Zero. The OP seems happy and I praised him for his good work. I'm sorry so many who have build these bucket cleaners have been so butt hurt but it doesn't change the very basic facts that have been stated. Facts. No commercial industry that I am aware of, and there are many, cleans or polishs 'spheres' during their production process in this way. None. Probably a reason.

Other than that, I really don't know where the controversy is. Have your opinion, it's one of many.
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I asked one question in a fairly un-dicklike manner. Can you not reply in a un-toolike manner? WTF??? See 'ya Capt.OCD. Welcome to 'Ignore'.
 
RRfireblade said:
This is a weird place, not sure what to think.
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We're not talking NASA aerospace tech here. If you can tell the difference after 500 rounds in the polisher, you should be doing brain surgery for the greater good, not wasting time with us reprobates playing pool. Get real bud. o_O
 
realkingcobra said:
How does that theory hold up on the new Gabriel billiards tables that bank short when new with their aluminum extruded rails? Sorry but banking short is not a sign of ball wear size, and a 1/2mm is 19.685 thousands of an inch, which equates to a whole lot of missing phenolic resin, so do you have any facts to back your claim up, or are we suppose to take "I was told" as facts. I know more about how a pool table plays, and how to MAKE it play the way I want it to, than ANY pro player does, just saying!! Fact!

Including billiards tables. The 1912 Regina 3C 10' billiards table i rebuilt at Brothers Billiards in Billings, MT without heated slates will bank 10 rails, and I have a video proving it😉
Click to expand...
Well Glen, I was supporting your thinking.
I haven't conducted scientific study one this theory nor do I have any experience on Gabriel Carom tables. (I thought they gave that up) What I've done is played 3Cushion for nearly 5 decades.

What I've "noticed" is when it looks like the table is playing short while everything is as clean as humanly possible, the culprit seems to be under sized balls, and when measured with a caliper that point is when they've lost 1/2mm in diameter. Sometimes we blamed other things like the table moved or the cloth is worn or ..... Sometimes the balls were worn.

In the days when the balls got worn we cleaned them on a cotton buffer with rouge designed for plastic. Of course that buffer was used for other things with different rouge. The circumstance caused/allowed the balls to be ground down smaller. It took about 8-12 months and the Room Owner/National Champion would buy a new set. He couldn't stand it anymore.

Jump my case if you want. My comments aren't about you, the table, Custom GC Ball Cleaner, You, or anything else but what I've been taught, what I've witnessed, and what I pay attention too.

I have no idea if a 1/2mm degrade is too small or not for pool.
 
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rexus31 said:
Have you noticed how long it takes a ball to wear 1/2mm?
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No
Like I said, I'm rotating 4 sets, but see nothing to complain about.
Balls slow roll up and down very true.

My table is nearly perfectly level. There's no such thing as 1000% level with slate and wood.
It's absolutely possible to get a table better than BCA specs.

My table was assembled and finished by AZB "yesyura".
He's the only person allowed to touch my table besides me.
If he argues with me... I back off. He wins. He knows way too much for me to argue.








You've built a very nice machine.
I watched your slo mo vid.
I like it.
 
3kushn said:
My table was assembled and finished by AZB "yesyura".
He's the only person allowed to touch my table besides me.
If he argues with me... I back off. He wins. He knows way too much for me to argue.
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Does he do any work in NJ? I need someone who knows what they are doing to look at my table.
 
Dan White said:
Does he do any work in NJ? I need someone who knows what they are doing to look at my table.
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This might help you contact yesyura?

Looking for Mitch

Help me please. I used to play 3-c with him in NJ. After I changed phone number also lost contact. He’s in 70’s and living Ramsey area in NY. Recently bought Soren Sogaard for his home. You can give him my new number, 732-874-1757. Thank you.
forums.azbilliards.com

1644343210471.png
 
Absolutely gorgeous.

I wish I could have been able to come through with some laminate, I would have loved to say I helped somehow.

It’s so good looking. 👍🏻 Just beautiful.
 
stevelomako said:
Absolutely gorgeous.

I wish I could have been able to come through with some laminate, I would have loved to say I helped somehow.

It’s so good looking. 👍🏻 Just beautiful.
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Thanks, man! I appreciate the effort! I’ll land the laminate soon.
 
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It's been a minute since my last update. I ran into a snag with the ordering of the laminate. The lady at Home Depot improperly ordered it and the manufacturer (Wilsonart) cancelled it and did not notify Home Depot of the error on the order. This set me back about a month. She corrected the error and production on the sheet was 6 weeks. I went with Wilsonart Rio which is a rosewood laminate closest to the Formica used (discontinued) on the Gold Crown I rails. First step was to get the top surface as level as possible. I used this 17" sanding block I picked up from Harbor Freight. It worked great and got the surface flat.

52118235274_a7e02db8dc_h.jpg


Then it was time to adhere the laminate to the top. I used Wilsonart's lamiante contact adhesive. I'm gonna let the stuff cure for a day or two before I hit it with the trim router to trim out the hole in the middle and the excess from the sides.

52116959407_9ae3dc7fb6_h.jpg


I also picked up the stainless steel quarter round trim (7/16") for the edges and corners. Once I get the 102" piece cut to working dimensions, I'll cut the channel for it in the lid.

52118282124_a4ebdeb3ef_h.jpg


Once the channels are cut for the trim, I can prep, prime and paint the sides Brunswick Blue. Once the paint is cured, I can premanently adhere the trim and round bezel to the lid. I'm getting close to finally putting this project to bed.
 
rexus31 said:
It's been a minute since my last update. I ran into a snag with the ordering of the laminate. The lady at Home Depot improperly ordered it and the manufacturer (Wilsonart) cancelled it and did not notify Home Depot of the error on the order. This set me back about a month. She corrected the error and production on the sheet was 6 weeks. I went with Wilsonart Rio which is a rosewood laminate closest to the Formica used (discontinued) on the Gold Crown I rails. First step was to get the top surface as level as possible. I used this 17" sanding block I picked up from Harbor Freight. It worked great and got the surface flat.

52118235274_a7e02db8dc_h.jpg


Then it was time to adhere the laminate to the top. I used Wilsonart's lamiante contact adhesive. I'm gonna let the stuff cure for a day or two before I hit it with the trim router to trim out the hole in the middle and the excess from the sides.

52116959407_9ae3dc7fb6_h.jpg


I also picked up the stainless steel quarter round trim (7/16") for the edges and corners. Once I get the 102" piece cut to working dimensions, I'll cut the channel for it in the lid.

52118282124_a4ebdeb3ef_h.jpg


Once the channels are cut for the trim, I can prep, prime and paint the sides Brunswick Blue. Once the paint is cured, I can premanently adhere the trim and round bezel to the lid. I'm getting close to finally putting this project to bed.
Click to expand...
What an awesome project.

Interesting thread as well, learned a lot reading through it.
 
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