Gold Crown Barn Find

Ron Padilla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Scott, I didn't go back to reread everything in the post as I am close to putting mine together soon and have quick question! while assembling I recall it being recommended that the long skirts be cut in half to simplify the reconstruction? did you do that or leave them in one long section?
thaks
 

pocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Scott, I didn't go back to reread everything in the post as I am close to putting mine together soon and have quick question! while assembling I recall it being recommended that the long skirts be cut in half to simplify the reconstruction? did you do that or leave them in one long section?
thaks

Good God NO!!!!

The only recommendation related to the aprons in to cut the BRACKET, and If I'm not mistaken Steve (the mech that put Scott and my tables together) recommended 3 parts, not two.

I didn't do this on my table and Steve did have to wrestle with one side to get it attached.
 
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rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Good God NO!!!!

The only recommendation related to the aprons in to cut the BRACKET, and If I'm not mistaken Steve (the mech that put Scott and my tables together) recommended 3 parts, not two.

I didn't do this on my table and Steve did have to wrestle with on side to get it attached.

Agreed.

Early GCI's had one long cleat to attach the aprons, later versions (like mine) had several shorter cleats that are much easier to work with to get the apron hung.

Although it is recommended, I've not seen any detail on how to cut them up. Ideally, you would want 2 screws through the top and two through the side; all countersunk in the cleat. I can't recall, but I think my cleats were 6" in length.
 

Ken_4fun

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank you, sir! This pic sums it up.


This is the picture you should hang in the gameroom my brother.

Ken
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
After playing on the table the better part of a few months, I've decided to add ball return. I was able to score a box in decent shape from a contact here on AZB (Thanks, Mark!) and restored it. As expected, the back corners were broken and previously repaired with nails; guess that's what happens when you don't drill pilot holes. I epoxied the pieces back together, drilled and doweled the old holes and cross drilled and doweled from the back of the side panel through the broken pieces and into the side panel for added strength. My mechanic (tablemechanic on AZB) scored some return tracks for me and my buddy (Baby Huey on AZB) gifted me a brand new set of pocket gullies. Thanks Jerry!! The box is all painted and carpeted and the aluminum trim piece is at the powder coater to be coated the same color as my pocket castings and feet. It had seen better days so the best and least expensive route to go was to have it coated. My buddy Dave helped me straighten it, enlarge and countersink the holes. Thanks, Dave!! I'll be using #2 wood screws to hold it in place versus tacks. Here are some pics:













Pic before straightening, drilling and countersinking:
 

stevelomako

We bust hustlers
Silver Member
Make a divider now to put in and take out if you play any one pocket at all.

Then you don’t have to worry about the balls getting mixed up from each side. The balls made in my pocket stay in the tray on my side and I guess if you made any they would stay on your side. 🤔
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Make a divider now to put in and take out if you play any one pocket at all.

Then you don’t have to worry about the balls getting mixed up from each side. The balls made in my pocket stay in the tray on my side and I guess if you made any they would stay on your side. ��

Good idea but I don’t play much 1P so for me, the additional effort isn’t worth it.
 
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ThinSlice

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Looks good. Good choice on the all return and good call on the thick carpet in the ball box.


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