MajorMiscue
Democat
AZB member Newsheriffintwn, makes a CF shaft 11.8 or 12.4mm for $300 and some gorgeous cues.
Have you used carbon fiber and went back to wood?
- Thread starter Shooter1
- Start date
I totally agree. I'd always played with a one piece tip and played very confidently at the edge of the cue ball, left, right and at the very bottom edge. With CF I've yet to find a tip I like that has the hit and sound that I desire that isn't laminated. It's as though if you don't go with a laminated tip these days there are very few great choices. So for me it's the combination of CF and a laminated tip. Blech. I recall hearing a Jeremy Jones commentary in a match where he sais he miscues a ton more with laminated tips and with that I tooooootally agree. The combination of CF + miscuing with laminated tips has created a hesitation in my stroke.....a lack of confidence....that I can't get past. I wonder what leathers the tip makers use. I may have to seek out a water buffalo and snatch apiece of his hide.
1st shaft I had was a meucci red dot, then went to a black dot, back to red. Both seemed ok , but they wasnt no levels above a good standard grade A maple shaft , granted at that time I was a novice at best, but it was still apparent that the bullseye shafts were a gimmick. After that I went to a 314-1, stuck with that for a year or 2, went to Ob, hated the mush feel, went back to 314. Bought a Z-1 stuck with that for 3-4yrs , alternating between that and the 314. Tried a ob-2 still didnt like how soft it was ; swapped the tip to med/hard , still didnt like it. Tried a ob classic,kinda like that, being that shaft was stiff but like the 314 and z lacked feel /feedback. Bought a 314² than a z², found myself liking the z² more .
Sold my 314¹, Z¹, ob classic, as well as the 314², by this time the meucci shafts were long gone.
That Z² won me a City Championship , and 10s of thousands in tourney money thru-out the next 6-7yrs. Regardless of settling on the Z² , I always thought it lacked feel, and was back on the hunt for the perfect blend of ld, stiffness & feel.
I had a shaft made that was grade A maple , reduced front end mass, &
ferrule-less at a 12.4mm tip. I found that shaft was virtually equal in low deflection as the z², but had more feel which I loved.
Some of you vets likely remember me amping it up, I was on the move towards marketing the shaft, under the name "Ghost" LD shaft. Life was still happening , had 3 kids in a stint of 6 yrs , and time & funds were getting tight. So the Ghost shaft never got launched due to lack of money and time at that point in my life. Pool in general took a back seat for 6/7yrs .
Fast forward , kids are older , business is doing good enough, and I got more time to myself, so I got reacquainted with pool. Once I got started back up , the latest and greatest shafts out there were/are the revo 12.4 & 11.8
(insert whatever cf shaft suits you) , so I purchase the both of them.
Upon my return Ive incorporated more drills, and have fine tuned my game , the hiatus kinda help me start brand new , drop bad habits & stick to fundamentals , which in turn means more consistency.
What I found with these revos is they are stiff and hit harder , but still lack the feel of a good quality maple shaft. As for the lowest deflection thru cf shafts , jurys still out on that claim imo.
None the less ,with the proper mechanics in place, it dont matter what shafts on the cue , any table is able to be cleared so long as control is consistent.
I say all that to say this , you can make your rounds dropping money on all the latest gimmicks & claims to instant improvement, but the fact is, it all boils down to your mechanics, and what tools you find are most predictable & comfortable for you.
--TL//DR--
The key is consistency through your mechanics, that consistency starts and ends with you, . Lastly ,there are no short cuts, practice makes perfect.
Sold my 314¹, Z¹, ob classic, as well as the 314², by this time the meucci shafts were long gone.
That Z² won me a City Championship , and 10s of thousands in tourney money thru-out the next 6-7yrs. Regardless of settling on the Z² , I always thought it lacked feel, and was back on the hunt for the perfect blend of ld, stiffness & feel.
I had a shaft made that was grade A maple , reduced front end mass, &
ferrule-less at a 12.4mm tip. I found that shaft was virtually equal in low deflection as the z², but had more feel which I loved.
Some of you vets likely remember me amping it up, I was on the move towards marketing the shaft, under the name "Ghost" LD shaft. Life was still happening , had 3 kids in a stint of 6 yrs , and time & funds were getting tight. So the Ghost shaft never got launched due to lack of money and time at that point in my life. Pool in general took a back seat for 6/7yrs .
Fast forward , kids are older , business is doing good enough, and I got more time to myself, so I got reacquainted with pool. Once I got started back up , the latest and greatest shafts out there were/are the revo 12.4 & 11.8
(insert whatever cf shaft suits you) , so I purchase the both of them.
Upon my return Ive incorporated more drills, and have fine tuned my game , the hiatus kinda help me start brand new , drop bad habits & stick to fundamentals , which in turn means more consistency.
What I found with these revos is they are stiff and hit harder , but still lack the feel of a good quality maple shaft. As for the lowest deflection thru cf shafts , jurys still out on that claim imo.
None the less ,with the proper mechanics in place, it dont matter what shafts on the cue , any table is able to be cleared so long as control is consistent.
I say all that to say this , you can make your rounds dropping money on all the latest gimmicks & claims to instant improvement, but the fact is, it all boils down to your mechanics, and what tools you find are most predictable & comfortable for you.
--TL//DR--
The key is consistency through your mechanics, that consistency starts and ends with you, . Lastly ,there are no short cuts, practice makes perfect.
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I like the way that the old Ob shafts play. I decided to play with those before I go after carbon fiber, but I have played with them.
I tend to like the 12.4 to thicker shafts. I have played wtih an 11.7 shaft and it played like an iron pipe.
I would like to play a month with a carbon fiber that isn't a McDermott Defy. It hits great but wears me out it dampens down the shock
so much.
I did go back to regular wood for awhile and I preferred the old OB 13mm shaft.
Im an old school one peice tip guy be it lepro triangle Waterbuffalo schon factory tips ....ect ect but ....
About the miscues with laminated tips...
I've noticed alot of them have a hard sharp edge From the sidewall to the hitting crown...I shouldn't even have to say this but knock that shit out with a file rolling the shaft on your leg wile sitting... put a nice soft edge round crown on your tip. People always look at their tip when they miss cue. But 90% of them don't have the right shape on their tip. The very edge of their tip is like a 90 degree corner of course they miscues with hard English all the time
About the miscues with laminated tips...
I've noticed alot of them have a hard sharp edge From the sidewall to the hitting crown...I shouldn't even have to say this but knock that shit out with a file rolling the shaft on your leg wile sitting... put a nice soft edge round crown on your tip. People always look at their tip when they miss cue. But 90% of them don't have the right shape on their tip. The very edge of their tip is like a 90 degree corner of course they miscues with hard English all the time
This is what your tips edge should look like. I never miscue unless I'm drunk or am trying a stupid extreme Hudini shot. NOTICE HOW THE EDGE IS SOFT AND NOT A HARD CORNER. Usually I keep this kind of info to myself but I'll share with u guys....this littlest of thing makes all the difference.
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Das Cue-Boot
Active member
I agree with the rounded edge. I‘ve been experimenting with this and found I can get further out on the cue ball for english and draws, especially with a softer tip and the newer engineered chalks. I actually try to go to the radius of half the tip diameter so that the edge is tangential to the cue axis, and have been trying one tip where the burnished edge is conical and decreases diameter as you get toward the end of the tip, so effectively a smaller diameter at the tip end.
I've done this before. Just go at a slight angle when trimming the sides then burnish Seems the cut down on mushrooming. Doesn't really make a difference to me. If I want a 12mm tip I grab a 12mm shaft. If I want a 12.5 mm tip I grab a 12.5 mm shaft. I have and use shafts from 11.5 to 13mm. Just depends on the table and cloth type and how much I've been playing. I have found that right around 12.5 is a real sweet spot (12.25 to 12.75) for most conditions. 11.5mm is hard to controll unless u have been playing a lot of hours or at least some every day with it. and 13mm can be hard to get the finess needed for bar box 8 ball
skiergd011013
Well-known member
interesting. I specifically went with the pechauer because i was reading that it didnt have that metallic "ping" and strange feel like some other cf, and was the closest cf shaft in feel to wood, and that has been my experience with it. I always played with the mcdermott g-core shaft prior, and didnt really experience any transition pains. The only thing i didnt like about it was the white lettering fill on its logo, which i tooth-picked out. To each their own.
I tried many different CF shafts, but after using a wood shaft for years, they all felt dead to me. I guess I was used to the vibrations from wood. I read about the Hsunami kielwood shaft and ordered one of those. It gives the same feedback as any wood shaft, but does reduce deflection as the torrefaction process removes the moisture and sugar from the shaft.
-dj
-dj
MorganMan84
New member
Yes.
Tried revo, pechauer, cuetec, mezz and go customs. Of all the cuetec was the best but for some reason I don’t play any better with them.
I still play a 57” vintage dufferin conversion sneaky pete.
Tried revo, pechauer, cuetec, mezz and go customs. Of all the cuetec was the best but for some reason I don’t play any better with them.
I still play a 57” vintage dufferin conversion sneaky pete.
That's an interesting point. I might have missed the discussion on this topic if it already happened, but is it a given that CF shafts with equal parameters (and by one brand, i.e. "same" shafts) do play equally the same in reality?
soyale
Well-known member
not a very informed opinion, but a guy i know let me hit a few balls with his CF recently, a revo i believe. i had never used one before. I play with an ob1+ and comparatively, it felt like the revo didnt provide any feedback on the hit, as if it was a shock absorber. i also didnt care for the feel of the CF on my skin. i played one rack of balls and handed it back, not long enough to get any kind of performance comparison but enough to know that i didn’t like it.
I have 3 cynergy shafts and I can't tell the difference.
I've be a 314 guy for 25 years (on a custom butt with a snooker bevel on the back). I still use Ash 9.5mm for Snooker. Tried a bunch of CF cues. I don't see much improvement in LD over 314-3. In some cases worse. Don't like the balance. Very front light and they must add weight to back to achieve overall desired weight. Also I'm used to and like 12.75mm and all I have seen are under/over this. Thus I will pass. The only upside I see is durability. The price point is also not to my liking. I expect More for More. I know a little about manufacturing. I would bet that 314 costs Predator more money to make than Revo and lets not get into a discussion about R&D costs.